Clive

1 hour ago, Colin Cutts said:

Ok will try again(when it’s warmer) and use all new shims we’re is the cheapest place to get them from 

I have managed to swap shims with people when I needed them. They are common to stags and dolomites, so people often have a jar full of them. 

But it is worth checking the shims you ground have changed thickness in use, the issue may be elsewhere (but my brain is struggling to work out where)

9 minutes ago, Velocita Rosso said:

Morning any news of any discount codes for the entry to the show?

I don't think there are any? Cheapest is to buy in advance at £12, £15 on the door.

8 hours ago, TRev said:

 

I have been a long time user of CTs forum and remembered a post about using the 3 rail gearbox with 1500 engine (thanks thesrcapman) but came unstuck when I could not remember which car the clutch plate came from. Both Rimmers and Canleys websites don't help much when you know the spec but not which car they are from.

 

This link should give you some ideas for finding one, possibly within NZ

https://britishclassicspareparts.com/product/clutch-driven-plate-7-14-1098cc-mg-midget-austin-healey-sprite-morris-minor-austin-a40-farina-mk2/

Entries for non-members open up at the weekend, and currently there are 6 entries. So there will be space.

As to insurance, not my area of expertise. 

Steve, there is a bunch of the "usual suspects" with a group of stands in Hall 1, selling assorted tat  quality preloved spares. Pop by for a cuppa and you may even find a biscuit or 2. 

39 minutes ago, Wendy Dawes said:

Yes I agree it is extremely user friendly 👍

With many many friendly users

1 hour ago, Colin Cutts said:

Looser

So something is getting smaller. 

Cam lobes, that would be obvious. Shims compressing, cam buckets wearing or valve stem tip. 

When you say regrind, I assume you are taking oversize shims and reducing their thickness to suit? I am certain those shims are hardened, not sure how they would respond to being refaced. 

16 minutes ago, Velocita Rosso said:

Ooooh ..can of worms and tin opener comes to mind. Personally I feel that we now have an excellent web site and forum ,whereby criticism of the original sites is not necessary as we were all in the throws of learning how computers and systems worked. We are are now supported by an even more excellent support team who do know what they are doing. However we are now going through the Vulcan/Peregrine space shot scenario of `we can do better than NASA` and at the first attempt ,it all going wrong, as everyone throws their two penneth in stating they have better ideas (re CT...not the space shot!) .  The current system is now just what we want ....so why don`t we all support it. Yes we all have mobile phones and like tinkering......but we all know what happens when we tinker....especially with cars

Yes, thanks to a rather good website builder and support, we have a site that does all we need, is fast and works. 

We don't need to fundamentally change anything. There are, and always will be, ongoing tweeks, but that is the nature of the interweb and indeed the way the world works. 

11 minutes ago, TRev said:

Thankyou glang for the link above, I had looked on their site but could not find what I wanted, plenty of complete kits. Thanks again.

I "think" that plate is from a morris minor/sprite or similar, which may help in the search.

Canley Classics should be helpful (and very knowledgable, unlike the bros)

12 hours ago, Velocita Rosso said:

The previous posting was about North Yorks area not having any attendance...and then another member from a different area pointing out a Facebook post about a change in venue etc. Surely the CT site should have been updated 

Yes, but we can only update stuff we are told about. 

And to a certain extent group organisers can manage their own Group pages. But in the main, listing updates go via Admin. 

We need to be inclusive, but ideally all events/drives out etc etc should be on the website, and then post on whatever mode of social media you prefer with a link. That way the info is kept safe, won't disappear and can be easily found. 

Which way round are the clearances changing? getting tighter or looser?

https://www.clubtriumph.co.uk/ewr/intro/

Opened at 7pm today

Cold oil is thicker, hence the higher oil pressure. 

Once hot, you get a better idea of what is happening. So the 15psi is a touch below ideal, but not anything to get worried about. What is important is that the oil pressure is pretty good when the car is being driven, the expected range is 40-60psi when being driven, so absolutely fine. 

Yes, the 1500 gives oil a hard life. Especially if driven at higher revs. So if you do this, best to invest in a higher quality oil. But if just running about, the std classic 20/50 stuff is fine. 

Not keen on Waxoil. 

Dynax S50 is very thin and creeps into seams, so ideal. I recently welded some repairs on my dolly doorskin, and used S50, and then some Dynax UB over the welded areas. I have also used Dinitrol products which are very similar.

The Vitesse I inherited has a coating of grease applied in all sorts of areas, which a=has generally worked well, but I am not looking forward to some of the small repairs that are needed (meaning I will need to clean the grease off)

6 minutes ago, glang said:

Draining sump very good idea but I dont remember having to angle it so steeply as to get residual oil on my head😳

More that oil will drip from the block once he sump is off. Hence drain, then leave so it all drips off into the sump

Top tips for sump removal. Drain the oil, and leave the car for a day or 2. That way you are less likely to need to pressure wash your hair with truckwash. A hat is a good idea too. Better, a shower cap!

I did with my mkIV, so may be slightly different. 

I had to hack some of the foam off the front (ie under the screen) of the original dash to get it in, still quite tight. But as my dash was cracked, it has made a huge visual improvement. 

I will be speaking with a mk3 owner who used one, so will enquire how that went.

3 hours ago, Howard said:

Clive, what's the issue with the regs and compatibility here?

 

Manufacturer should be the same for a CU and its contents. Wylex RCBOs are not cheap! (and that is why they are not used much domestically, customers are given the choice, £80 or £180 for a new CU, and they don't understand the benefits. Or the fact it is adding a smallish % to the overall costs. 

7 minutes ago, Howard said:

Clive,

When I rewired my previous house, (I am a chartered electrical engineer & this was before the requirement for Part P certification) I replaced the original VLCB (voltage operated circuit breaker) with a combination of RCD's - the whole house was then protected with a 100mA breaker, the sockets with 30mA and the stables with 10mA (horses are more susceptible to electrocute than humans) which worked well, provided reasonable discrimination and avoided nuisance trips. In my current house I will be modifying the wiring to the garage / workshop since the builders installed a 16A supply fed from the main consumer unit along with the house sockets all protected by a 30mA RCD, connected to 13A fused switched spur unit feeding a buried armoured cable to the garage where another small 30mA protected consumer unit is installed supplying the sockets and lighting... Needless to say no discrimination at all - but it is safe.

I haven't checked the building regs / BS7671 requirements for a few years, but does the buried feed to your garage need to be protected by a RCB when a MCB / MCCB suffice? Then inside the garage the sub-distribution board could be a mixture of individually protected circuits with 30mA for lighting and 13A sockets plus a 100mA C curve unit feeding a dedicated BS 4344 240 v socket for the welder.

Cheers

Howard

Bit of a grey area that would cause an argument on an electricians forum! From memory, if no RCD protection the cables need to be buried at least 50mm or (I think, need to check) 3mm steel protection. So I should be OK.  But a 100mA would be a sensible precaution. Plan B is to use a switched fuse, which are difficult to blow. 

Some RCBOs are very cheap now, £10ish, so I could use those in the garage. But not compatable (from regs point of view) with my Wylex CU and mainswitch. Besides, a single RCD should be adequate for a garage. 

I need to be careful, as I said much of this is not "normal" stuff that I deal with day to day. So I should refer to BS7671. Danger is that it will send me to sleep before I find out what I need. 

18 hours ago, Howard said:

Its not a good idea to run the lighting from the same RCD / ELCB as the equipment since a trip could leave you in total darkness ..

Something happened at Gatwick Airport some years ago when the power & emergency power failed and a cook was carrying a pan of boiling water - he was only save from serious injury by a single battery powered emergency light that had been overlooked...

 

Std house wiring thesedays is a dual RCD board, with upstairs power and downstairs lights on one RCD, and vive versa. Better is a bank of RCBOs so each circuit has its own RCD.

Not good practice to have a 30mA RCD in the house, and have that protecting teh garage, with another RCD in the garage. If you do that, it should be a 10mA RCD in the garage, but that is hopeless with power tools. What I want to do is fit a 100mA RCBO in the house to feed the garage, but a C curve so it copes with my welder better. It will be OK with current regs as the garage supply cable is SWA and buried more than 50mm under floors etc. and nearly a metre deep across the garden. Then I can fit a 30mA RCD in the garage. That will be more convenient for when I cut the grinder cable or whatever. 

2 hours ago, JohnD said:

  Run that from the same supply as you run the pillar drill, together with a multi-socket extension on the wall as well, but put a "residual earth current circuit breaker"

This is worrying. Do you not have RCDs in your consumer unit? If not, it is time you did, or fit one before the CU. Or best of all, fit a full set of RCBOs.

I have a very good late 1850 gearbox sitting here.... And know a chappie who has built a few of the hybrid gearboxes. Just in case....

On 14/12/2023 at 15:43, garyf said:

So it would be a new Clutch too then if I went for the 'J' Type Overdrive, how much do you think for the Parts?

As I see it I would need the following Items:-

1. New Over-drive Main shaft

2. Second hand Over-drive Unit ('J' Type or 'D' Type) and possibly an additional costs to check/re-condition it

3. Overdrive Adaptor plate to Gearbox

4. Gearbox/Over-drive Gasket Set

5. Overdrive Chassis Mounting Plate

6. Rear Over-drive Gearbox type Rubber Mounting

7. Inhibitor Switch and Gearbox mounting plate

8. Wiring Loom extension

9. 6RA Relay ('D' Type only)

10. Over-drive switch and Cowl

11. New 20 Spline Clutch Plate (If 'J' Type is fitted) 

Have I missed anything?

How much for that lot these days, £2K sounds about right to me and I would still have to remove and replace it all😞

I suppose you can still drive the car without Over-drive but they are revving to high at motorway speeds

Gary    

It is a tad more complex. The J type gearboxes for a 6 cylinder both originate from dolomites. The earlier type is essentially the exact same box as the std gt6/Vit gearbox, but a J type od. It is the exact same length as the std GT6/Vit box, and also has the same small mainshaft tip. The input shaft uses teh coarse splines, same as gt6/vit.

The later Dolomite box is single rail. Reverse next to 3rd gear. That uses a mainshaft with the bigger 18mm tip. It requires a fine spline clutch plate from a late dolly 1850. The gearbox is an inch longer, so bespoke propshaft required. There is also a bit of grief fitting the gt6/vit bellhousing

Simple answer is reverse position. 

single rail it is next to 3rd

3 rail next to first (or second, but that side)

Let me know if you are down my way soon, or I will be in Ringmer 19th Dec