Clive

2 hours ago, sparky_spit said:

I buy quite a few bits in Halfords and nearly always use them for consumables, and wondered how easy it is to get a trade card when I'm not exactly "in the trade".  Can I use my "status" as a Club Triumph "official" do you think?

How have others approached this and found an acceptable to Halfords "occupation"?

I thnk you can use your professional qualification. They seem to allow tradesman to get one. 

I blagged mine years ago. Turned up in overalls etc. 

28 minutes ago, standardthread said:

Any oil contamination on the driven plate wash it with carbon tetrachloride (if you can get it) or another volatile solvent.

Brake cleaner is the stuff these days. Carbon tet not been (Easily) available for about 20 years or more!

I should add, it is the blocks that are recessed around the bores. Not the heads.

Any "mk2" type head will fit, some (much) better than others. 

On 04/08/2023 at 16:58, thescrapman said:

The Strombergs on their own are supposed to perk it up a lot, with nothing else changed.

might be much cheaper to try that first

🙂

The engine needs a set of core plugs soon. The cam swap is pretty easy with the head removed, and a skim is not expensive. The unleaded conversion may be more than I paid last time I had one done.

In other news, the Vitesse now has the diaphragm cluch kit, plus the fresh later 4 synchro box in it, and new prop. No rear spring yet. 

The later gearbox has a reverse light switchwhich means I can soon use the reverse light sensibly (it currently has a seperate flick switch, which is a PITA). I haven't changed the slave, and the clutch does not feel heavy, so that can stay.

I will potter on with the odds and ends, then take the day off on Wednesday to hopefully get it (more or less) finished.

The obvious givaway is the head gasket. If it has a tab sticking out at the rear of the head it is recessed, if not tab it isn't.

(but beware, I have had an engine that wasn't recessed bore, but had the incorrect gasket fiitted. Likewise somebody could ciut the tab off the gasket. People do odd things)

9 hours ago, Richard Clough said:

Good morning everyone, I would like to enter this years RBRR following the email yesterday with addition spaces available. I’ve tried using the club shop entry button but showing ‘nothing matching your request’….blurb still shows entries at 125 so not increased to 135 as per email yesterday. Any ideas how or who to contact to get onboard?

Many thanks,

Richard Clough 

Apologies, we are looking into what the issue is. I will be in contact once resolved.

Now fixed

The order of "significant" jobs has crystallised a little. 

My friend Pete has given the gearbox a decent overhaul, and I have now got a 3.89 diff and a new propshaft. I am also swapping the rear spring to a swingspring constructed from a couple of good used ones.

While teh car is up in the air, I have fitted full sized GT6/Vitesse discs (the 1600 has the slightly smaller spitfire discs) and teh Type12 calipers are being replaced with m16 metric calipers from a ford. I absolutely refuse to use the new Triumph calipers after hearing the experiences others have had. The ones I got are almost identical to Triumph except they have the same lug spacing as the spitfire/herald etc. And I heard a rumour (!) that if the disc was reduced a little in diameter they would fit right on. Nope, with the discs off the caliper fouled the actual hub. And I know the early hubs are chunkier. So a trip to another friend and a play on the lathe had the hubs reshaped. But it was clear that either I was not being brave enough, or I needed to sit the calipers futher out. So I made some new caliper mounts, and it all fits. And then..... I cant fit a steel wheel. At this point I was looking for a sturdy tree and length of rope. 

So I have bought a set of minilitish wheels that do fit. Something I was toying with as I want to make the car "mine" However, the moral of the story is that I should have got GT6/Vitesse p16s and the associated brackets. Or just left the smaller brakes.....

The gearbox will be out of the car today, and the flywheel so I can redrill to accept a better/stronger diaphragm clutch (I have got an AP cover, plate and proper RHP bearing) 

Saturday I hope to get it all bolted back together. 

A winter job is in the pipeline. I have got a 25/65 cam, and intend to take the head off, a hefty skim to get the CR to 9.5, new core plugs, maybe 3 angle valve seats and unleaded inserts while it is apart. Fit the cam, and a the pair of strombergs I have bought. Hoping that will perk the performance up a bit!

Also in the garage I have my rebuilt sprint engine to go in my Dolomite. That is a possible autumn job. And in the spring the Spit will get a bit of bodywork and paint, the 40K hard miles has taken its toll in places. Talking of which, the car behaved impeccably on the recent trip to Slovenia. Managed a new top speed of 127mph on the autobahn, roof down but then I was told to back off by the lady wife. There was still a bit  to go, but genuinely nearing the limit of the H rated tyres. So probably sensible.  Otherwise I had to add about a litre of water on the first day, then it was fine therest of the trip. When I got home about 1/2 litre of oil to top up, but that was well over 2k miles. Nothing else to report, it just works. 

Right, the sun is out, time to pull a gearbox out of a vitesse. 

worringly if you google the burton part number is appears to be a QH part number for a 215mm clutch. 

But the correct plate is from an early sierra 1600 (however, 2 types were used, so check it is the 1" 23 spline centre)

This looks hopeful. 7 1/4" is 185mm, this one is 190. 

https://www.burtonpower.com/std-clutch-plate-ford-x-flow-ohv-kent-190mm-1-x23-c784af.html

54 minutes ago, thescrapman said:

If the 23 splines are same as 1500 dolomite splines, there is a 23-spline small plate fitted to a Triumoh, possibly later Toledo or 1300 Dolomite. I think.

No, but it is the same as TR7 5 speed and dolomite 1850, so that plate gets used when converting 2L cars.

1 hour ago, Brockie said:

I think the 1500 flywheel uses 7/16 bolts to bolt to the crankshaft but my original uses 3/8 so would this mean the holes in the 1500 would be too big and hence would be problematic to centralise?

From tbe Canley blurb, you can buy collars to take up the gap. 

If you want a 1500 flywheel, I have a freebie in Brighton.

That looks like it is the "custom supplied" clutch plate. No idea who sells them, but Frontline were the people supplying kits, so may be able to help.

The better idea may well be to use the larger clutch/1500 flywheel. Proably the cheaper option too. Besides, the plate you have looks as if it has lost springs? But appears to have plenty of friction material. And the cover has odd wear marks on the fingers, as if the bearing has been rubbing halfway down them. Wear is usually at the tips.

5 hours ago, THM345F said:

It looks though like the hub caps differ?  The pointy ones are specific to the wider wheels and the originals would have had a centre circular depression:-

 

The hubcaps in that picture are the original type.

The pointy type come with the new soothie wheels, and I very much doubt they will fit the original rims.

The fitted wheels are the new 5.5J "smoothie" wheels, indicated by the "pointy" hubcaps. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133555192429

They are about £300 a set new.

If they were the original Dunlop LP923 wheels, they are worth  loads! (probably why these are being reproduced)

Tyres on wheels is tricky. If they are good quality tyres, correct size (I would say 175/70 13 is the correct size on the 5,5 wheels) and not old, they add some value.  In reality, your best bet may be ebay to sell these if you can cope with the occasional idiotic question. I expect they will fetch north of £200, possibly more. Partly depending on location.

3 hours ago, carmadmike said:

Hi Clive

Thanks for the reply it has been very helpful. I will probably go with 3 relays (2 for main beam 1 for headlight) with 3 separate 2mm thin wall to feed them fitted with 15amp fuses. Then use 2mm, 25amp thinwall blue/White, blue/red to keep the colour's original. I'll also run new earth in 2mm thinwall as well. Does this sound ok.

Mike 

The relay earth can be tiny, the current is so small. Otherwise, yes, sounds good to me.

43 minutes ago, thescrapman said:

I have gone with the cheapo Chinese relay setups off EBay. Work fine, just protect relays from water. 

Dead easy to install

I used them, but boy can they rust. The 2nd set I stprayed with some wax protection spray, and that certainly helped.

I recently fitted relays to my 1850. 

I cut into the loom behind/under the dash. And use a pair of relays, one for dipped, one for main. I used a single feed wire to the 2 relays, 33A cable and that was protected by a single 30A continious rated fuse close to the battery so all the wire is protected (fused relays only protect the wiring after the relay)

As to wire size, auto wiring is often sold by current. But for thin wall cable (beware, thick walled will be different) 2mm is 25A, so adequate for the 4x main beams. But I would probably overspec to 3mm (33A)  

1mm is 17A, so if you go for 3 relays, that would be ideal. As long as you feed each relay individually. 15A fuses in the 3 relays. 

1 minute ago, TimW said:

Just looked at booking the Novotel Hotel. Website saying no availability?  Anyone have any idea why?

Govt appears to have booked it.

Premier Inn seems to be the popular alternative.

The biggest problem with gearboxes is that GL5 is too slippery (too good?) for the synchros to be able to grip the hubs. Many modern gearboxes (Honda, Nissan and probably many many more) are not suited tio GL5 either.

Today, most GL5 oil is yellow metal safe, but you have to check with the manufacturer if you wish to use it in your diff.

The simple solution is to play it safe, and use GL4 oil.

Incidently, the Honda boxes are very specific. I rebuild a Jazz gearbox (just 2 bearings required) and used a "compatable" oil. Correct grade etc and the gearchange is definitely clunkier. At some point I will drain and fill with the correct Honda oil. At £15 a litre....

That oil may be good in a Triumph box, a bit thinner, and correct grade of additives.

17 minutes ago, Gopher69 said:

I suspected that's what they were. Do they ACTUALLY work?

No eveidence to say they do. And thinking about my chemistry degree, all the claims are pure bo!!0ck$. 

1 hour ago, samwhite95 said:

Hi All, thanks for the further replies, my dad came out for a drive and commented the same. He also commented saying that some of the noise seemed to be coming from the gearbox too so we'll put all fresh oil in both and see if it does anything in toning down the noise. I'll also check the prop is secure whilst im under there and check to see if there is excessive backlash. 

W.r.t. diff oil, does it matter which grade is use from 75W/90 to 85W/140? or is the school of thought that is all works, just the more viscous oils are more appropriate with gearing that is a little looser than it should be to take up the slack?

Yes, thicker oil can help a bit. 

EP80 and 90 were the original specification, but ep80/90 is a good option especially for gearboxes. They MUST have gl4 oil, yellow metal safe or not, A thicker oil in the box can make the gearchange difficult.

When checking the diff for backlash, there are 2 different ones to check for. The CW&P is VERY subtle and should be a tiny amount. As in a couple of mm rotation. The backlash most people feel is the far more obvious one, play in the differential itself which is down to worn washers and isn't a serious issue. Of course, it could be a bearing, but a stripdown is needed to find that.

Mark is correct, many (most?) diffs whine to some extent or another, so don't fret too much.

It souunds like you have a bit of noise from the diff. Power on and the crownwheel&pinion are under pressure, no power to the diff and that pressure is released.

It depends how bad it is, but once a CW&P get noisy they are VERY difficult to get silent, all a rebuild can do is reset them with shims, but it is likely to still have some noise. Even brand new diffs from reputable suppliers can scream. 

Moss sell a "special" oil for noisy diffs. It may help a little, and they are clear it doesn't fix the issue, just attempost to quieten it a bit. It is a GL5 oil, but is safe to use. I expect any other 85/140 oil would do the same job

5 hours ago, samwhite95 said:

Hi Amy,

Much appreciated! I've got a small leak on the diff and was looking to use some leak stop, do you have a experience with a leak stop product? Would you recommend?

Regards,

Sam

The diff needs resealing. Seals are cheap, and the front one is easy to do. The side seals require somebody with the correct tool to press the bearing off the sideshaft (do it wring and it snaps)

Re diff oil, as Amy says, anything in the range 75 to 90 EP oil, GL4 (or a yellow metal safe GL5, but that takes some digging for the info) I use an 80/90 GL4 for engine and gearbox. 

Probably nothing serious. 

I would check for wheel bearing play, and if that is ok, take the pads out, clean up the surfaces of the caliper where the pads sit (top and bottom, I use a small file, a wire bush plus brake cleaner) and then check the pistones move freely. Reassemble with a smear of copper grease on theback of the pads. And a VERY thin smear on the pad/caliper contact areas. Not forgetting the anti-squeal shims are OK. 

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