Clive

I think jf is in the USA (I just approved his forum membership)

Best bet if you can't find originals is to use miata seats from a mk1 or 2.

Google is your friend about "how to" 

Have you got the wire from the solenoid that supplies 12V direct to the coil while the engine is turning over on the starter? If not, the coil and distributor won't be powered when cranking. 

Also check if the 123 is happy running off 6V (the way you have it wired) as it may want a 12V supply.

I would suggest that the lightness is a big advantage with the 1500 engine. That long stroke is a bearing killer, the forces are big so lighter rods will help. 

Of course, Vandervell big end (in particular) bearings are a great idea IF you can find some. Which reminds me, I have some which I ought to advertise. (not a sales pitch, honest)

There was one on teh mk3 spit when we got it, but I didn't like the look of it!

So I fitted a hose adaptor and an OEM type switch to the bottom rad hose. 

But, are you using a relay? I wonder of the switch is not eant to take the full fan current, especially on startup (typically double the running current)

Unless driving the car hard, you should be fine without additives. If worried, the club sells Castrol at about the best price anywhere.

As to hoses, yes, you need to check yours ASAP for signs of damage/splitting etc, and replace with GOOD QUALITY R9 or 14 hoses. Gates Barricade, Cohline are 2 decent ones. Do not even condsider the ebay own brand stuff, it seems to have an incerdibly short life. 

10 minutes ago, Tim Bancroft said:

If a 2.5L car, then a 3.27:1 might be a realistic option, but aren't the carriers week and therefore susceptible to failure due to torque?

Yes. I have direct experience of this. I broke several 3.27 diffs in my 2.5 vitesse. I then fitted a 3.63 which handled the abuse it was given with no further issues. That diff later went into my zetec spitfire, and when removed was still in perfect condition. It was resealed and now lives in Belgium. 

On my 1600 Vitesse I have swapped the original 4.11 diff for a 3.89. A good compromise as a 3.63 would probably be a bit of a stuggle. 

Indeed, with my spitfire I feel quite vulnerable, and the relatively low height means drivers don't see you. I have been hit twice while stationary. One range rover backed into me in a queue into a Goodwood carpark after he had been refused entry (My fault apparently, as my car was too small!) and another time in a queue where the inside lane started moving, and the alfa behind "forgot we were there"

So we need ALL the help we can get!

It has been a while.

The garage has been shifted around. The Singer and Spitfire are in lockups to get them out of the way. The Vitesse has returned, and Molly has bought another car. The MX5 is now ours, and will get the engine rebuilt when time allows.

However, the Triumph news is that the Dolomite is now engineless, having put my DIY mobile axle stands to good use. In fact, more than engineless. Subframe was dropped out, along with all the front suspension, engine and box. 

Next job is to take the box, then engine off. Then swap the rack for the excellent recon one I bought from the TDC. The steering shaft and joints will need replacing, the ones off my Toledo were all newish and good, so will fit them. I also have some adjustable shocks and uprated front springs. Sadly Spax shocks, but it was either those or Gaz, and these came along from  chappie in the TDC.  More as it happens....

I have a similar issue, and found the LH boot hinge was worn. Bought a new one, fitted. No different.

Try swapping shocks over side to side. (again no difference here) 

I had the MoT man have a good look too, but he can't find any issues. Damn annoying. I guess I will find the issue one day.

13 hours ago, Steve P said:

Another spammer?

I very much doubt it. Either Jeremy has made the rather common error of thinking joining a fb page or forum makes you a member, or he has joined the club, and not managed to log in here as a club member. 

The spammer yesterday was one I was suspicious of when he (?) joined the forum. His IP was American, and we seem to get a fair number of those turning out to be spammers. His email and IP addess didn't flag on the spam checkers either.

For clarity, Linus was a spammer. He was reported, and removed.

So thank you to those who reported him. 

I would check everything over. In particular the distributor timing. 

If yiou have access to a timing light disconnect the vacuum advance, and get somebody to increase teh revs from idle up to around 3000rpm. You should see the advance increase all the way. Then suck on teh distributor vacuum to make sume that works OK.

Then take it for a drive, keep advancing the timing until the engine just pinks under light load. Then back off slightly. That should be the best position, and may liven the engine up considerably. 

A rollimng road session will be great to get the final few % out of the car. A mk2 vitesse is not sluggish. But back in the day they were a quick motor. Today their performance is pretty average compared to other cars on the road. 

5 minutes ago, Nick Jones said:

Are you sure your existing engine is the right one (ie not saloon engine) and is fully fit.  They should go pretty well as standard.

Otherwise, as Clive says - what is you goal and what do you want to use the car for.  Think carefully before going 2.5, the extra torque exploits the inherent weakness of the transmission!

 

Nick

I was going to mention that a good tune up after a thorough check over may give good results. 

What are you trying to achieve? The answers will rely on this.

(ie you want to go sprinting, better midrange "power", wan't to pull a caravan etc etc)

I am no expert on stags. However, even Rimmer Bros say they are expecting new stock

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-TKC2864

And I would expect other stag specialists to be able to supply either new or good used. Of course, shipping to the other side of the planet will add a chunk to the costs.

And is it the same as the 2000/2500 cars? if so, I would expect them to be available locally for you.

Local specialists seem to have all but disappeared, and there are a handful of Triumph gearbox poeple left. However, they are not a complex box, so just about any gearbox place will be able to help.

Sounds like the layshaft "pin" has worn, very common (it is not loaded at all when in 4th gear) but I expect a few other bits may need attention. Beware unbranded bearings, and if the synchrios are good, swap 4-2 and 1-3 rather than new. 

If you can get the box to sussex (OK, not local) I know of somebody who is good with these boxes and sensibly priced. 

It is all on the page, and the discount is £4

Screenshot below

A shilling and sixpence.

Or if you want ticketing info:

https://www.necclassicmotorshow.com/ticket-information?

Most of the bolts came with the seatbelts. The top of teh B bost I used a bit of steel plate, 4mm thick. The 2 philips head screws (5/16 unf thread) were already there, the hardboard had the holes precut. And there are bits of threaded bar factory fitted to make the fitting (reasonably) strong. I cut the steel plate to shape, drilled holes and painted them.

The top of the gearbox  has a pair of 5/16 unf tapped holes and I made the bracket. Ahain 3mm steel, and welded a vertical triangle for the belts to bolt to. A simple bit of steel bar with a slight bend to enable the large seatbelt bolt top be fitted would be more simple. 

Bottom of the B post is just a hole. 

So teh only things not in the kit were 2x 5/16unf bolts (about an inch or so long) and the 3 brackets.

Hope that helps.

The std timing curve for a GT6 should will be safe. You may need a little more advance at low revs. Maybe 12-14 degrees, I have found that, even with a std cam. But keep the max mechanical advance to total 32 degrees. And I wouldn't worry too much about vac advance if running the car up to a tuner, if he worth his salt he will set that up to give max torque under light load once he has done the usual WOT stuff. 

Essentially you wish to build a TR5 spec engine? If so the head (if it is the 2500S head) will want the CR increasing by skimming. And 3 angle valve seats. Plus you will want a TR5 distributor, or at least yours modifying to match the TR5 advance (though thesedays I think it would be a little different as fuel has changed)

I am sure you may be able to find many of the parts you need in a shed in Sussex...

BP5ES is hotter. (NGK work opposite numbers to some other manufacturers)

That any good? It is a longer leg version, but easy enough to.chop the excess off.

On 25/10/2023 at 10:14, Dannyb said:

Just talked to Dave at the Spitfire Graveyard. He says the brackets are riveted to the springs. So I'm now thinking of taking the spring off to refurbish it and weld the split on the bracket.

Danny

You should be able to replace the rivet with a countersunk bolt/nyloc if you don't have rivets available. Making a bracket should be easy enough. I may even have an old spring section in the garage with one on, can have a look later

A compression test my help, do wet and dry at WOT, all plugs out. However, a leakdown test can be more revealing if you have a compressor and kit available. 

It could be rings or valve guides letting a bit of oil past. A "workaround" would be to fit a hotter plug to that cylinder to burn the deposits off. 

I doubt it is the timing, though you could fit that electronic ignition. It may help with a better spark for all cylinders.

And yes, you may need to richen the front carb a tad to get 1+3 the correct colour. No 2 is rogue!