Clive

Not unusual. It lowers the rear a bit, depending on the block size. 

Can be used if a new spring is too high, which seems more common now. 

Following on, relays alone make an imporessive improvement. I assume because they take out several connectors and switches from the power circuit. And yes, never underestimate the issues a poor connector can make. I recently had ythat on my Dolomite. The fan was poorly fitted/wired by the previous owner. This caused fuses to get so hot they stopped working, the heat damage being at one end, not melting in the middle as is usual. And getting far too hot to touch. (all that seems to have resulted in a blown head gasket. A damaged thermostat housing and split hose didn't help 😩

2 hours ago, markswaye said:

hello re triumph vitesse mk 2

on the nearside front bulkhead side,near the bonnet lock catch i have found a data plate on my car while restoring her.

Its not the vin or chassis number.

Ive cleaned it up and it reads 107150 RAI

Ive searched the we to identify this number and what it relates to,does any one out there know the answer 

please.

Any chance you can post a pic? The RAI is not familliar to me, but I wonder if it is teh body number (it would be on a bit of steel, about 3"x1" (at a guess) with rounded ends. If so, the number was not recorded anywhere.

Bit crap is the answer

I think there was so much confusion about exemption and declarations etc they gave up and decided to just mark them all as exempt. 

Whole thing is a mess.

6 hours ago, Don Cook said:

Is it in Nov that the 10CR entry is opened up? Can we be advised how, and on what platforms, entry will be opened?

It will all happen here, on this website, as all CT events do.

We are planning to open late November, but I understand the team are waiting for a few things to be "firmed up"

22 hours ago, JohnD said:

Clive, Have we crossed swords before, about my advocacy of rest?   In the same way, I fear for the future of the RBRR, if anyone who actually opposed it saw that people with badly adjusted lights were taking part.   This magnificent event could so easily be banned.

Bests,

John

Not that I can remember. I do find it odd that you try to pick up on issues that people mention. And as to rest, all participants know not to drive tired, and all are adult enough to, dare I say it, be sensible.

But badly adjusted headlight?? 

I reckon it is because our cars are small compared to most on the road, and lower. And yes, they tend to have a load of stuff in the boot meaning the headlights are probably higher than ideal. But other road users are unlikely to be distracted, just those in their 50+ year old sportscars. 

In all honesty, apart from the big main roads and motorways, you don't see too many cars at night apart from fellow participants. 

5 hours ago, JohnD said:

And/or:   Is there a case for pre-RBRR scrutineering?     As performed every single time I go racing.    Race scrutineering is directed at safety.       If it's only headlights that need to be checked, a simple white line on the car park with a wall in front, with the headlight heights of the various Triumph models marked.   Drive up to the line, turn on the lights, pass or fail!  Simples!

John

Definitely not.

The event is not a race or competitive in any way. To scrutineer a car would imply otherwise. Club officials are not qualified to check cars (OK some may be) but the club would not take any resonsibility for checking the cars. That is done by the owners and hopefully the MoT man. 

Plenty of new cars have horrendously bright headlights, it is not just a trait of some RBRR-ers. 

4 minutes ago, glang said:

Yes all the original type integral big reservoir m/c are rare with the Vitesse 0.7" difficult to find and the last GT6 0.75" like gold dust...

So I should hang on to my 0.75 cylinder. Been in a cupboard since I took it off my Vitesse, it did 10 years on that.

Something is niggling away in my brain about master cylinder brackets and angles, and maybe being different between some models. (the brake one always has a reinforcing bar AFAIK)

Of course, you could get your original cylinder resleeved in stainless, but not a cheap option.

1 hour ago, Mike Smyth said:

thanks both, appreciate the feedback and tips👍

@Rosbif - spoke to Rimmer Bros and they told me the ones they sell didnt fit ?...where did you get yours from ?

@cirrusdancer - ill take a look at those links, thanks again

I recently fitted some to my 1964 vitesse. It had never previously had seatbelts fitted. 

The fixings are there, just hidden. The top of B post ones are 2 tapped holes behind the top front corner of the rear/side 1/4 trim panels. The centre one is a pair of 5/16 tapped holes on top of the prophaft tunnel about halfway between the back of the handbrake and the rear seat.  Bottom of the B post I couldn't find anything, so drilled and bolted.

I used Securon belts in silver/grey which seems more "period" than black. I used these

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252826767132

I used a piece of 3mm steel bar to make brackets for the top of the b post. And the same for the top of the prop tunnel, but welded an upright section of the seattbelts to bolt to. I can take some pics on Sunday when the car is returned by my daughter after it was borrowed when hers went wrong a month ago...

50 minutes ago, JohnD said:

Pete,

Nick's words on pumps  are, of course, as Holy Writ!     

When I converted the Silverback to Pi, I was very conscious of the effect of cornering and fuel slosh in the tank on mechanical fuel injection. A carburettor can reject bubbles in the fuel supply in the float chamber, but injectors cannot and early in the conversion, it would cut out just as you put your foot down on exit.  Triumph fitted a little gravity pot under the estate's fuel tank but it wasn't adequate.   So I added a swirl pot, fed by a Facet Red Top.     I thought that this would easily keep pace with the Bosch that the pot feeds, but in fact, and about ten years down the line, I actually checked, by running either into a measuring jug.      In fact, free-running (no pressure), they are about equal, and I suspect that sometimes, taking in the other factors that Nick mentions, the Facet isn't keeping up.  I've simplified the hose layout and installed new filters, which so far has done the job.   I'm sure that  maximising the hose and connnector sizes is  the way to go, and to mount the swirl pot as high above the Bosch as possible!

John

John, does the return from the engine bay not feed into the swirl pot? That is the "usual" way to do things so the lift pump only needs to keep up with the fuel used, as opposed to how much the injection pump wants. Downside is that the fuel can warm up, but with an "open" return from the swirl pot to the tank  it shouldn't be too much.

I really like the VW fuel pump I have used in my Spit tank. It has a built in swirl pot, and despite no extra baffles, and the pump being over on the RH side of the tank, it will run the tank almost dry. However, I doubt that pump is high enough a pressure for PI. My injection has the PRV set to 3.5bar. (std ford PRV)

My gut feeling is that you need to revisit the timing. It is essential to set it by ear rather than a timing mark. Drive the car, light throttle up a sslight incline. Adjust the advance until it just pinks, turn it back a smidge. That will be the best setting. Also check that the vacuum advance and teh mechanical advance work. That does require a timing light...

Try http://baileyperformance.co.uk/ , I know he has done a GT6 or 2, and is a decent chap. He spent a day on my injected spitfire, sorted many things the previous tuner hadn't bothered with. 

2 hours ago, Buttercup said:

Taken both manifolds off and replacing the gasket to exhaust, having some welding done to the exhaust manifold to address an issue from PO which at that time was done by a Triumph garage! Inlet manifold now all clean and ready to paint cooling pipes. Should have exhaust manifold back hopefully tomorrow. 

Well worth checking both the downpipe and manifold mating faces are perfectly flat. I have several T shirts associated with those downpipe gaskets (eventually fixed by tapping to M10 so I could use cap head bolts that don't break/strip) However, I bought some extra long brass nuts from an ebay supplier for my dolomite, worth a thought.

Worth noting that some cars with the Bosch 0044 pumps fitted as OE had a 12mm feed from tank to pump. And below the tank. 

That ties with Nicks excellent response above. If there is a more suitable pump, it may well be worth seeking out.

7 minutes ago, thescrapman said:

Don’t think so. They used a 1500fwd joint on outside ISTR. Not sure about inner joint.

Inner was a CV from a 1500 spit propshaft. I think.... So all trumph parts

3 hours ago, JohnF2500TC said:

Does anyone know the route for the final leg through Hampshire, Berks, Bucks,& Herts? I am in East Berks and would like to cheer everyone on. Also can support anyone if required.

I have sent you a message

6 minutes ago, glang said:

Oh the mk2 Vitesse chassis still retains the original telescopic shock mounts does it? Sounds like that GT6 needs a CDD set up😯

Yes, the factory added the lever arm brackets to a normal chassis.

They were the CDD driveshafts, they are available for non-roto cars, and usefully the needle rollers do not run on the shaft. Not sure why they failed. But speaking with another owner who has them on his vitesse, he sent all his stuff to CDD to get them to assemble them. And there my knowledge expires! 

10 minutes ago, glang said:

Looks like CDD do two types CV and double UJ so I wonder which one it was. Either way I cant see you can avoid the shock bracket conversion on a mk2 Vitesse...

With a CV conversion, you can use the std herald/spit shocks. 

28 minutes ago, Shepsy said:

CDD.

 

That is NOT a cv type shaft, but a solid swing spring setup. I spoke with the owner earlier today. And a few months ago we were on the autobahn at near 130mph...

The herald and vitesse discs are barely any different in diameter. The  vitesse calipers are bigger, and not a straight swap. 

The 13/60 brakes are very good as long as they are in good condition, and quality pads are used. 

1 hour ago, Shepsy said:

Hi Clive, 

I would really like a CV conversion and the telescopic shocks that you can fit without the bracket conversion.

Unfortunately, I have read that there are weaknesses with some of the cv driveshaft conversions - whereby some owners have lost their wheels (GT6 on you tube) + others that the owner of the GT6 has been in contact with. This is why I’m asking the advice of the more experienced owners on here. Not sure if Nick Jones is still doing the conversion as I am struggling to find his contact details.

Many thanks. Pete 

Nicks conversion was never really sold as a kit. He used to get a few bits made, but the owner needed to find the Volvo lobro joints, the Rover100 shafts (there are a few lengths, but only one is suitable) and the outer rover100/MGF CV and hub. Nick had the inner adaptors made, and got the uprights machined. Nothing particularly secret, and others have done the machining too. 

Not sure which setups have a weakness. The canley classics conversion seems pretty bombproof, but no longer made. The CDD setup again looks to be strong. Which variety broke?

"Best" is a bit subjective, but here are is my 2p worth:

Genuine metalastic couplings are now eye-wateringly expensive. So  a CV conversion is a great idea. I have the Nick Jones conversion, which required the uprights to be machined. However, the parts supply for that conversion is tricky, and most use one of the conversions from the "usual suspects"

Shocks are tricky. With CVs you can use the std herald/spit length shocks as the rotoflexes are no longer in the way.  However, they are a bit angled on te mounts. To teh extend I keep wondering if I could improve that situation. But after only 8 years and over 30k hard miles, I am still thinking. I use Koni shocks, probably the best.

59 minutes ago, docwad said:

i woke to a notification that i have received a refund for the entry of my co driver for rbrr  this am and his entry as 2nd driver  has been deleted also from list too

he says he hasnt done this

  i havent done this 

anyone  any ideas??

You have a pm. Fret not, it will be corrected.

I would be inclined to rebuild the original if it is playing up. Or leave alone apart from cleaning the gauze filter if it was working fine.

New pumps have a poor reputation for putting out too high a pressure. Fixable by using a small spacer or something. Also worth checking that the new pump is OK without a spacer as I would not be surprised if they only sell one type of pump? (later cars use a spacer about 8mm thick)