Hairy Bobis

Many thanks for the replies. I think I will go down the UJ route, this appears to be a fit and forget solution, which appeals to me. Keep it simple! After a bit of internet hunting I see these Escort UJs retail around £25. Time to raid the piggy bank. Once again many thanks. Sav

Many thanks for your replies. Looks like I have wasted £15+ on a poly bush kit then! It seems the best long term option is to go down the UJ route. Which is the best UJ to fit? It's only a road car so nothing fancy is needed but I would like a quality part. Are they a straight swap or do they need 'fetling' to fit? Apologies for so many questions. Thanks Sav

I was hoping to replace the rubber washers on the steering coupling on my 13/60 Herald, the existing washers are perished. However after close inspection it looks like the bolts joining the upper joint to the lower joint are 'splayed' at the ends, being a critical part I am assuming this is so they cannot loosen and fall out in use. I was expecting the bolts to be retained with locking wire however I do not think this is an original part as the nut and bolt holding the clamp to the column was a metric size (13mm). Is this repairable using these bolts?  I am doubting this. Or can I use replacement bolts which allow the use of locking wire, if so can anyone recommend a supplier? Or have I wasted my money on a superflex kit and should get a universal joint that are sold by the usual Triumph suppliers? Many thanks, Sav

Many thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

Many thanks Mark, Cliftyhanger. I did have the mounting plate on my written list, forgot to include it above. It did not cross my mind that the bolt holes may be a different size.  I will have to watch out for that when the time comes. Is there anything I can do / check before fitting?  I see from the Triumph diagrams that there is a filter behind the square panel on the overdrive unit.  Is this something that can be easily removed and cleaned?

I have finally managed to find myself an overdrive gearbox for sensible money. I was enjoying myself at Beaulieu on Saturday when I stumbled across this. I would be grateful if any learned person can confirm what I have. I believe I have a 3 rail, 4 syncro, D type 'box.  It has a prefix of DG suggesting it came from a Toledo. My intention is to fit this to my GE 13/60 Herald so I am compiling a shopping list of those smaller parts.  At the moment it consists of: 46.5 in prop. Angled speedo drive.  Will the existing cable fit on to this? Relevant wiring and steering column switch. Have I missed anything? I intend to use the existing thrust bearing and lever fork. Many thanks.

Thanks Pom, I will watch out for that. I did not smell any petrol in the garage when I was in there last.

Many thanks for your replies. I had a play this afternoon and turned the adjustment screw anti clockwise (viewing from the top) almost 360 degs.  Now the engine almost stalls when you lift the air valve, as per the book. I did have to adjust the tickover with the throttle stop screw afterwards. I took her out for a good blast and all is good, she reaches 60 mph comfortably. I will see what happens next time when I start her up from cold with the choke. Thanks again.

I am having a dense moment so i apologise in advance. My 13/60 appears to be running a bit rich, the spark plugs are sooty and I have black exhaust patch on the garage door, otherwise she drives ok. According to the manual, once the car is at operating temperature, you remove the air box and you turn the mixture screw at the bottom of the carb clockwise to weaken the mixture. Then you test this by lifting the air valve slightly to see if the engine speeds up or stalls etc to determine if it is set up correctly. My question is, is that clockwise from looking down at the carb or as if you are underneath the carb? Many thanks.

Tony, PM sent.

I have been following this with great interest and I now would like to implement this on an oil change on my 13/60. The big question I have is, Where can I get one of these 5/8 - 3/4 adaptors? Is there anywhere in the UK where these are available, or is it only available in the USA as suggested earlier in the thread? Many thanks.

I cracked it yesterday! I noticed that the end part of the pipe after the last bend was similar in size to the hole at the base of the suspension tower so I removed the drivers side valance to allow more movement at the other end of the pipe and tried to slide the pipe sideways through the gap. It was still refusing to go through the gap until I realised that the engine earth lead at the front of the engine was stopping it.  A quick play with the spanner and it dropped out. And it only took 15 miniutes to suss it out. It is amazing what you can do when you come back to revisit a problem. Many thanks for the responses.

Just back from our camping holiday last night. I am aiming to have another look this afternoon and see has to be removed to extract this pipe. However I will be getting some paint this morning for the bulkhead. Isn't it amazing how one job leads to another.  I only started out by replacing a UJ on a drive shaft, which lead to a complete rear strip down, clean and paint. Then moved on to replacing the brake pipes which lead onto removing the heater ( to chenge that brake pipe) and I am now painting the bulkhead. Will it ever end? Hope not, I will have nothing to do!

Thanks for the replies. I should have mentioned that I have one of those ready made pipe kits purposely made for the 13/60.  All the other pipes came off very easily. I did think of cutting the old pipe at first but then thought how do I re insert the replacement pipe in one piece.   I really want to avoid doing this in 2 sections if I can, I will have another look to check that I have released all the metal tags when I am next in the garage. Somehow I think there will be further cursing and grazed knuckles to come! Thanks. Sav

I am in the process of replacing my brake pipes on my 13/60 and I am 'flumoxed' on how to removed the brake pipe that goes across the front cross member, under the engine. It appears from the nearside, the pipe meanders through the base of the front suspension tower and no amount of fiddling and prodding will allow me to remove this pipe. Is there a 'trick' in removing this pipe? I am hoping I will not have to remove the suspension tower to gain access to this pipe. Any assistance will be greatly appreciated. Regards, Sav.