Dogsbody47uk
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Posts posted by Dogsbody47uk
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Mole grips are usually quite effective.
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Quoted from Spitfire6
How frequent were your oil changes?
Cheers,
Iain.
Every 6000 miles or 12 monthly, whichever came first, and I always used Duckhams 20W 50. Cheers, Dave.
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Each to their own. I prefer the o/d switch on the gear lever ( 13/60 with single rail box and J type o/d ) but when I rebuild my Vitesse I'll have to make a decision as it has a 3 rail box with D type o/d with column switch! Oh dear...
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I've been using Magnetronic on my 13/60 for over 2 years. No problems so far!
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With modern thinwall cable chafing is much reduced and less likely to fail.
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With all the 2litre Triumph sixes I've owned, none have needed a top up between oil changes! Maybe I was just lucky.
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Hi Ferny. Discs for 13/60s are so cheap. Replace them if you have any doubts. Cheers, Dave.
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If your problem with the 1155 pads is lack of response when cold, try 1144s. I find they bite just fine when cold and are a good pad for road use. Cheers, Dave.
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It doesn't look like the arrangement on my Vitesse's D type. But also not much help!
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Quoted from RobPearce
First cable stretched isn't usually the problem. The intermediate lever needs to be some way behind its mid-point with the handbrake released - over-tightening / shortening the front cable leaves it in front, where it no longer works right.
15 degrees behind on herald or Vitesse. Probably the same on Spit or GT6? -
Many of our continental friends regard up as the "on" position. I owned a Fiat Uno where up was "on" on the switches. If in your house you have fuse box with an RCD etc, again up is "on" and down is "off".
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The driver's door has a (removable?) stop in the internal Mechanism to stop you from locking yourself out! It's probably just a screw that stops the interior handle moving to the locked position. Cheers, Dave.
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Quoted from Mark Hammond
Nope, you'll have to cut out the tunnel and patch it over with a removable shaped cover.
M.
Mark is correct. My Vitesse has o/d and there is an extra cutout with a cover held by self tappers. -
Aha. You've learned the answer to noise problems... turn up the volume on the radio until you can't hear the other noise!
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Changing the internal drive means stripping the box to get to the speedo drive gear on the output shaft. Far easier to try and get a secondhand speedo that gives the required result. My 13/60 has the 4.11 diff, but has a single rail 1500 Spitfire gearbox and overdrive. Wheels are 5 J alloys with 165/80 by 13 tyres. I found , by trial and error, that a 1500 Spitfire speedo ( checked by my satnav) reads 30 mph when I'm doing 28 to 29 mph. Close enough for me!
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Propshaft/gearbox flange touching transmission tunnel on overrun but not on acceleration, because of misaligned/soft engine or gearbox mountings? Torque reaction doing the rest.
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I fitted MGF seats in my 13/60 saloon. The fitting details are contained in another thread, but I can't remember which one!. So... 1; don't fit them in a convertible, ; 2; don't fit them if you are tall (I'm 6ft 4inches) because you can't get the legroom unless you move the seat back, and the tapering of the 13/60 or Vitesse transmission tunnel means that you end up with your shoulder wedged against the door and you sit at a very peculiar angle to the wheel and pedals! If you are under 6ft it's fine and the seas are very comfortable. I have replaced my MGF seats with MX5 ones. They are not as wide as the MG seats, they are just as comfortable, they are easy to fit. They will also go into a convertible. The seating position is better and I can now fit automatic seat belts because there is room between the seat and the B post to do so. Cheers, Dave. PS I now have MGF seats going spare if anyone is interested.
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For led bulbs try http://www.bettercarlighting.co.uk. Cheers, Dave.
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Door cards
in Body
I use 3mm thick MDF. It's cheap and can be cut with a Stanley knife, but make sure it's protected from damp! Most timber merchants will stock it.
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Try the TSSC shop. They sell inertia reel belts for Triumphs.
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I believe that The Vitesse 2Litre Mark 1 Manifold and carbs will fit.
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Quoted from ferny
The only fuse is an in-line one for the flash.
Adding fuses is easy, just buy a good blade box, cut the wires where you want it and connect them back together with the box in between. For an after-market box I found the one with a screw on the top best, the clip together ones are pants. eBay is an obvious place to get it but I think my mate bought one from B&M of all places (they also tend to have a nice beer selection too, just saying...)
You can never really have too many fuses. Just make sure you think about what you want to split or group together carefully, as it can really help trace faults later on if you're clever. And don't forget about Ohms law when picking ratings.
Ferny's right!!
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It is possible, just awkward! Replacement tanks don't have the drain plug... and life gets a lot easier!
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sounds like a duff flasher unit.
Sump Plugs troubles
in Engine
Posted
When I've had stuck sump plugs I've applied Mole grips in the best dangling down position I can get, the hit the b***** with a 4 lb lump hammer. Hasn't failed yet.