Matt306

27 minutes ago, TReslaV8 said:

Hello, I have seen the thread with Nigel/Howard on TR7 headlamps and followed the steps mentioned but my fault is different (I think!) to that described elsewhere. The lights work but the pods do not rise. Having tested the connections at the lights the blue/brown wire is showing 12v on a multimeter but the blue/purple is showing nothing (both sides).  I have also tried the manually raising the pods 3cm and turning the switch on, and no movement at all either side.  So do I now need to check the Pektron unit or is it more likely that the motors are kaput?  

Many thanks in advance 

 

David

David, on my 7 I know if i try a manual raise with the wiring connected the motor activate and the light raises then lowers, (from memory) you certainly feel the motor. 

Connect it all up then try winding the motor manually if it moves i suggest it is something other than the motor.  I would suspect motors if only one was not working both indicates something else. 

16 hours ago, Classicscrap said:

I’d also like to add my thanks to the organisers for another great run. After a front wheel bearing change in Skegness car park on Saturday morning, our car was running the best it has ever done. The route was great, although my wife complained of feeling car sick after a spirited drive around the lakes! I’ve added a photo from the finish this morning and looking forward to RBRR and next year’s C2C. 

My wife also decided the drive around the lakes was a little spirited...

Another brilliant c2c run, don't think I've missed one yet. Highlights were driving the tunnel! Lovely windy bit around Lake Vyrnwy and Bala.  We did take the short cut at the end from Fishguard but I was asleep so didnt notice!

723 Miles covered between first fill up and last 88 litres of E10 19.5 Gallons = 37 MPG. 

Best was the drive up  which was mostly MWay and Dual carriageways which was 39MPG.

Oil use about 500 ml mostly peed out the rocker cover! 

If you want an efficient Triumph EFI it!

I think the old relays in the fuse box can be replaced with modern equivalents?

Hi Tim as not entering this year , I can do Raglan or Mid Wales or Gledrid.

On 22/05/2023 at 16:41, Howard said:

Alternatively trade them in for TR7's which will complete the shortest alternative (380 miles) on one tank without topping up anywhere! 🤣🤣🤣

Howard I am going to be interested what my EFI does with the Air Fuel Ratio gauge adjusting fuelling versus yours on carbs....

If a TR7 get rid of the carbs and go EFI

Dolomite club sell them or you can buy them from the wedge shop in the US. I have ordered from them and they are wholly reliable.

The TR7 is a great car I use mine as a daily driver, sadly i think i may end up divorced with another TR7

Fitted new rubber o rings to the oil pump on the TR7. The pressure relief valve i ring was solid no rubber texture at all. All cleaned and replaced, hopefully weeping stopped!

Fitted new mill board in boot too, it looks quite nice in there now

4 minutes ago, RobPearce said:

Hello K and welcome!

Unfortunately there is a LOT of utter rubbish so-called R9 (E10 compatible) hose available from many places, especially the bay of E, but including most high street motor factors. You need to ensure that what you buy is the real thing, and the only way is to go for a reputable brand from a reputable source. Gates Barricade is the one to choose.

That said, many people find that the original factory rubber hose, while never specified for ULG let alone E10, survives it better than much of what's available now.

As I am running on TR7 on E10 I will have to keep a close eye on those pipes

1 hour ago, chris2 said:

hi

tr7 have a bearing on struts part no ukc9395/ukc329 and ulc2043 are replaced to a kit rb7706 from rimmers or sus023 from robsport.

The old bearings seize and make noise when turning on steering  

Chris , I wouldn't call any of the original arrangement a bearing in terms something which has low friction. Its a rather rubbish cone and thrust washer arrangement.

Should hear a spring under tension noise when turning the steering when all is off if this is siezed.

1 hour ago, Wendy Dawes said:

Just another thought, if it has McPherson struts maybe the top strut bearings are worn and need replacing. ? Had similar on my modern 

No bearings at the top of TR7 struts a rather odd cone arrangement. 

Noise under a TR7 hood... think they are they are there by design.  Twitter or charter can be a moving part just clipping something. Check the alternator bolts are tight the thin ones on the case. Lift the rocker cover and check the front stay for the cam cog there is a nut and bolt on there. 

Timing chain when was it changed last?

Loads of variables tbh....

Added my modded Dizzy to the TR7 injection system. This allows for full sequential fuelling. I should have the most efficient TR7 out there ... 

Honestly  Mr Scrapman if you drive a vehicle knowing it to be in a dangerous condition that is dangerous driving 

https://www.police.uk/advice/advice-and-information/rs/road-safety/driving-offences/

If you drive a car knowing to have a fault that is dangerous that is dangerous driving.  Cause death in the MV whilst it is in that condition having not repaired it you are looking at death by dangerous driving. The fact you have had an MOT which it failed and continue to use it on the road is where you'll come a cropper as you can not deny knowing the fault is there.

Not least good luck getting the insurance to cough up.

New anchors for the TR7. Got the kit from Race and Rally Design needed some fettling though.

Get the ARB droplinks with rose joints.

Wolfitt Racing products for Triumph and TVR sportscars

Added 15inch alloys to the Tr7. They tend to suit the car better than 13inch.

The oil pump seals had been weeping so those have been replaced to. Word of warning to 7 owners check behind the transfer cover as the port of mine was sludged up restricting oil flow.

On 25/12/2022 at 14:03, Ambulance Aran said:

Cheers Matt, it (the forum rules) won’t let me message you yet, but as soon as it does I’ll give you a shout.

you should have a message from me

I saw a lovely set if Eunos tombstone seats in a TR7 they has head rest speakers too

Good luck with it let us know how you get on

1 hour ago, RobPearce said:

That depends on the condition of the wire - it may be fine if it's good, but it looks a bit tired so doubling it up would certainly do no harm. But that's a job for later, we need to get this baby running first!

The alternator is irrelevant for now apart from the question of why the charge warning light no longer comes on. That could be because the thin wire has fallen off the alternator, or the brushes are dead, or similar. Check whether there's 12V on that thin wire, unplugged from the alternator, with the ignition switch on. If there is, the alternator end is the problem with that light and we can discount it from our diagnosis of the non-starting. If not, either the bulb's blown or it's not getting power, and that may help narrow down the fault.

Check the voltage on the coil, as Matt said, and on the various terminals of the ignition switch (they're just about accessible with the cowl removed).

The odd thing is that the fuel pump powers up. If the coil isn't getting power, the fault must be after the ignition switch, somewhere in the loom.

Rob totally agree this won't stop a spark but shouldn't there be two charge wires from the alternator? That one wire and missing plug just suggest messrs bodgett&scarper have been at the wiring loom.

1 hour ago, frenchiemk2 said:

You can read the hole story here MAIN THREAD

As the electric distributor was a mess i put a Petronix electronic ignitor in, that's why black a red wire, also put a new coil.

area 1 : only 2 wires, is that OK?

Area 2 : on one side 1 brown and 1 brown/yellow but no wires at the other side?

 

I guess that is a Lucas A127 alternator that wire will get hot very quickly when you have all the lights and heater and other stuff on. Usually three wires two thicker ones for charging the battery and a smaller thin exciter wire, usually in a plug socket those wires are live I think.

As previously mentioned I would be checking back ignition on then checking the wiring. Get a multimeter, a usual good place to start is where the loom has been cut into where there is those horrid blue connectors which cut through the wiring insulation for a connection (usually ends up in broken wires).

It will be a slow process... get a wiring diagram get it straight in your head then start your checking.