frenchiemk2 Posted July 4, 2021 Share Posted July 4, 2021 (edited) As I have a brand new youngtimer, and at the same time, my 1st ever Triumph or GB car, let's start a new topic here ☺️. Not "a barn find " (joke because everyone in France has a "something-find" and the top is supposed to be a barn find and don't ask me why, so ridiculous). Just for stored 12 years in a garage. the My car is a 2500Pi mk 2 (1972), green with overdrive, real french reg (LHD, which is cool because i'm french and i live in France 🟦⬜🟥). The "+" : 🏆 - very nice looking exterior - fine interior - fine and unrusted undreneath - genuine - all documents to register/clear record + Owner's manual The "-" : ☣️ - Tools, i only have metric... except screwpulls and hammers 😅 - exterior been resprayed (so looking closely, some details), BUT i don't know the paint code (not mentionned on the plate). - very nice leather (black), just a little sewing issue on driver's seat, nice wood ... - did not run for 12 years (and stored) but : top engine opened because of waterpump issue and head gasket failure. A friend of the former owner started to fix but assed away before repairing. So engine stayed openend without grease inside the cylinders ... and rust started. Few pics for you : Edited July 4, 2021 by frenchiemk2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 4, 2021 Author Share Posted July 4, 2021 Engine issues : Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 4, 2021 Author Share Posted July 4, 2021 After a slight vacuum cleaning... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted July 4, 2021 Share Posted July 4, 2021 Nice car. Bodywork and interior look great - I'm jealous! Engine...... hmmm. Shame it's been left open like that. Certainly not completely hopeless though. Your choices, I think, are: 1. Quick and dirty (you probably need to do this as a first stage anyway, whatever else you do): get yourself some 400 grit wet and dry paper and use it to remove the worst of the rust from the bores. Use it dry and keep vacuuming out the dust. The rubbing action should be mainly around the bores, not up and down - you don't want to create vertical marks. Pretty soon you will know if the rust is just on the surface or if it has also formed pits. You will also discover whether the bores have any other wear marks and whether there is a wear-lip at the top. If there is significant pitting, wear lips or other damage you should probably just cut your losses and go directly to 3 below. Otherwise carry on with the clean-up until you have most of the rust off, right down to piston level. Hoover out the dust and spray some penetrating oil into the gaps between bore and piston. Leave to soak for a while then see if the engine will turn. Looking at your pics, I reckon it will without too much effort... This will hopefully allow you to see the rest of the cylinder walls and most importantly the areas where the rings have been sat - usually where to worst damage is. If still looking ok-ish, carry on cleaning up the remaining areas. The clean block surface, cylinder head etc and re-assemble. 2. Not so quick but still fairly dirty: Mainly as above but also drop the sump, remove the pistons, cover the crank and use a ball-hone to clean the bores. Also clean the pistons thoroughly + gap and fit new rings. Reassemble with new bearing shells. Probably worth checking the main bearings while you are there and definitely worth checking the thrust washers. 3. The proper way: Pull the engine, completely dismantle and rebuild as required...... Good luck! Nick 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 4, 2021 Author Share Posted July 4, 2021 Thank you Nick. I've already bought a Haynes manual to get more info on that engine. I have to check if no missing parts... and also what caused this head gasket issue at first... Maybe you did not imagine another option : putting a BMW straight 6 and gearbox instead (joking, not for this genuine car). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desmk11 Posted July 4, 2021 Share Posted July 4, 2021 There is some good advise there by Nick Jones, frenchiemk2, this is a good place for help and support. I hopefully too have given you some divine inspiration. The little bit that you have already done looks fantastic, keep up the good work ☺ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted July 4, 2021 Share Posted July 4, 2021 Many years ago I had a 2500S engine that had been skimmed and cam swapped to about late PI spec, but had been left outside with the head off and just a bit of sticky-back plastic over the top for a couple of years. Nick's option 2 rejuvenated it to a really good runner, although it did tend to burn a little oil. That said, I did the RBRR with that engine and it used less oil than my GT6 would have. However, from your photos I'd say your bores are probably a bit worse than that engine was, so it may need option 3. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 4, 2021 Author Share Posted July 4, 2021 17 minutes ago, desmk11 said: There is some good advise there by Nick Jones, frenchiemk2, this is a good place for help and support. I hopefully too have given you some divine inspiration. The little bit that you have already done looks fantastic, keep up the good work ☺ Thanks. I think i'll try my best on 1st choice first... + balls honing (i've seen pros recommand it instead of traditional one). Step by step, depending on results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 4, 2021 Author Share Posted July 4, 2021 4 minutes ago, RobPearce said: Many years ago I had a 2500S engine that had been skimmed and cam swapped to about late PI spec, but had been left outside with the head off and just a bit of sticky-back plastic over the top for a couple of years. Nick's option 2 rejuvenated it to a really good runner, although it did tend to burn a little oil. That said, I did the RBRR with that engine and it used less oil than my GT6 would have. However, from your photos I'd say your bores are probably a bit worse than that engine was, so it may need option 3. Thanks for your advice. I'll check step by step and will decide in consideration of what i'll see/confidence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 5, 2021 Author Share Posted July 5, 2021 Just a look at the boot. Seems complete to me. Genuine tools i think on the right compartment Mod fuel system on the left side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted July 5, 2021 Share Posted July 5, 2021 So nice and clean in the boot. Fuel filter on arch is genuine, filters are not the same as diesel ones, but look the same, if you didn't know. And a Bosch pump, powered via a relay. Someone has spent some time sorting that car. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desmk11 Posted July 5, 2021 Share Posted July 5, 2021 That is a very clean and tidy boot area ☺ what with the correct tool bag and all. You even have the correct boot carpet, which is more than I have at the moment 😐 Good job 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 5, 2021 Author Share Posted July 5, 2021 Today i found hints that the car colour wasn't green... In the past...😓 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 11, 2021 Author Share Posted July 11, 2021 News from engine. I put gazole inside cylinders to check if they are "waterproof" and also to get benefit from fat and cleaning agents in gazole comosition. As a result for 7 days : - cylinder 4 leaking... - still small areas with rust - little vertical traces on cylinders - most of all engine stuck (tried tu push the car on 4th gear... no sir... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted July 11, 2021 Share Posted July 11, 2021 Colour underneath looks like Valencia Blue - should be code 66 on the commission plate? Might make identifying/matching the green colour difficult though! Engine doesn't look that bad. Wouldn't really expect the cylinders to hold diesel for a week - there is always a small leak-path past the rings. Have you tried a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt yet - doesn't look like it should be very stuck Nick? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 12, 2021 Author Share Posted July 12, 2021 Thanks. I will try a lever bar gently. But 1st i'll have to spray some WD40 or better product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 Not WD40, it’s a water dispersant not a penetrating oil. Something like PlusGas, GT85 or even automatic transmission fluid mixed with a bit of acetone. Diesel (gazole) is pretty good too. Good luck! Nick 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 Try the breaker bar. Don't be too gentle and use a rocking motion. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 12, 2021 Author Share Posted July 12, 2021 1 hour ago, Nick Jones said: Not WD40, it’s a water dispersant not a penetrating oil. Something like PlusGas, GT85 or even automatic transmission fluid mixed with a bit of acetone. Diesel (gazole) is pretty good too. Good luck! Nick Thanks for your tips, (i mentionned WD only because i lost my english words for anti-rust penetrating spray... i dislike this product, inefficient in my opinion, but I don't find any good one in shops! So I'll go on with gazole and acetone (tip read elsewhere too!). Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 12, 2021 Author Share Posted July 12, 2021 😁 Yesssss Engine unstucked : rotating freely now. No traces on cylinders with pistons stucked up. I'll have a look tomorrow at daylight. (AA badge off from grill... Since i made room to unscreww fan...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosbif Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 👍👏👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 Huzzah! 👏 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 12, 2021 Author Share Posted July 12, 2021 Thanks for your support. As I'm gonna order parts... Can anyone confirm i need a head gasket for recessed block? Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 That is, indeed, a recessed block. You can see the rings around each cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 13, 2021 Author Share Posted July 13, 2021 Thanks. I spotted 1 store to get all furnitures : Winsinternational Do you recommend others? Also like to get the correct refs for hoses (heating and front radiators) and electronic ignition. Any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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