frenchiemk2 Posted October 15, 2021 Author Share Posted October 15, 2021 (edited) News... Cylinder head sent to a regional pro. Check/controls, surfacing, replacement of guides and valves if needed Leather caring (a bit dry but not cracky). Genuine Motorola radio receiver (waiting for some Bluetooth upgrade or maybe just remote for bluetooth modified speakers). Edited October 15, 2021 by frenchiemk2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted October 15, 2021 Share Posted October 15, 2021 New guiides and valves will require to be reground to the seats. This will remove any 'lead memory' and may make it prone to valve recession. Americans mock us for our obsession with this - they had lead free long before us, and no probs, but it's a peace of mind thing. Steel exhaust seats can be inserted, if you are having all that done won't add to the cost much. John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted October 16, 2021 Author Share Posted October 16, 2021 20 hours ago, JohnD said: New guiides and valves will require to be reground to the seats. This will remove any 'lead memory' and may make it prone to valve recession. Americans mock us for our obsession with this - they had lead free long before us, and no probs, but it's a peace of mind thing. Steel exhaust seats can be inserted, if you are having all that done won't add to the cost much. John Yes, that's on the program of course, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted October 16, 2021 Author Share Posted October 16, 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted December 5, 2021 Author Share Posted December 5, 2021 New old magazine to kill time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb Posted December 5, 2021 Share Posted December 5, 2021 On 16/08/2021 at 19:48, frenchiemk2 said: 1 water hole filled with solid rust seal (reminder the reason why the head was disassembled : cylinder head gasket leak)... 🤔 If water ways in the head were blocked, I would suggest unscrewing the water drain tap at the rear of the block (manifold side), this area may well be blocked too and will only cause overheating issues if left. As the head and manifolds are off I would also recommend changing the 3 (?) core plugs that are in the side of the block again under the manifolds - easy to do now but a pain with everything in place. You may be able to just get to the one or two at the gearbox end of the block too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted December 17, 2021 Author Share Posted December 17, 2021 New old magazine from 2001. Classic comparative 2500 Pi mk2 vs Citroen DS 23 injection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted August 22, 2022 Author Share Posted August 22, 2022 (edited) Hi, i'm back... After 10 months the cylinder head is back. 🙄 Time for questions : before reassembly : - the head never had inner thin valve springs (specific to 1972/France?). so i suppose the thick ones in place don't need inner ones... - head>block : must i replace studs and nuts or can i reuse studs or nuts or both? + Haynes says 45 Pound-feet [lbft] (= 61,01 Newton-mètre [Nm]), Edited August 22, 2022 by frenchiemk2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted August 22, 2022 Share Posted August 22, 2022 I don't think the factory were entirely consistent on the use of double valve springs. If you've got the slightly stronger main valve springs then you don't want the inners. My Mk1 Vitesse (which the WSM says should have double springs) is like that and works fine. Yours being a 2500 will have the beefier 7/16UNF head studs, for which 45lbft is a sensible torque. If there are no signs of thread damage or wear then you should be OK to reuse them. It's probably worth replacing the washers, though, as long as you can get the proper hard spec ones. (Mk1 2L engines have thinner studs which are on the limit of their torque rating and need special super-hard nuts and washers. Those are often worth replacing every time the head comes off.) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 22, 2022 Share Posted August 22, 2022 3 hours ago, RobPearce said: Yours being a 2500 will have the beefier 7/16UNF head studs, for which 45lbft is a sensible torque The bigger studs/nuts actually have a higher torque specification. TR6 factory manual (same engine near enough) states 80 lb/ft dry. That’s a bit higher than I remember… I thought it was 72lb/ft… 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted August 22, 2022 Share Posted August 22, 2022 41 minutes ago, Nick Jones said: The bigger studs/nuts actually have a higher torque specification. Indeed they do. I've checked the 2000/2500 saloon WSM and it specifies 60-75 for Mk2 models. Haynes gives 65-70 for Mk2 GT6. This is probably towards the upper end of what a 7/16"UNF thread will take but well within what the stud can handle, so it's still OK to reuse if the threads are all good but give them a more careful examination. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted August 22, 2022 Author Share Posted August 22, 2022 Thank you all. Maybe i'll go on 65 is 88Nm, which i find a strong torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 22, 2022 Share Posted August 22, 2022 Thanks for that Rob, those numbers look more like I remember. 60 - 75 is wide range though! I’ve found that the studs and nuts both survive well, unlike the 3/8 UNF ones where the nuts are usually half dead. Just be sure to use the original washers. They are hardened so they don’t squash! Nick 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted August 22, 2022 Author Share Posted August 22, 2022 1 hour ago, Nick Jones said: Just be sure to use the original washers. They are hardened so they don’t squash! ... i don'tknow if i have them (dismanteled head long before i got the car) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted August 22, 2022 Share Posted August 22, 2022 In principle, the correct washers should still be available, but you'll need to source them from a reputable specialist. Canley Classics list them under part number 508289 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted August 23, 2022 Author Share Posted August 23, 2022 found the washers, head ready, block surface cleaned again... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted August 24, 2022 Author Share Posted August 24, 2022 This is the way 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted August 25, 2022 Author Share Posted August 25, 2022 90 NM it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted August 25, 2022 Author Share Posted August 25, 2022 Just now i realize that i should have sent this header for heat coating at the same time as my Audi stuff... 😑 Had to order push rods to Chris Witor... Plus this new game is find the right place to those nuts, washers and studs... Some seem fitting... ok. The finish line is not near Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted September 4, 2022 Author Share Posted September 4, 2022 (edited) Hi Job sd going on, but some help needed 1. I don't find the values of the valve rocker clearance 2. Not sure about the fitting of the 2 hoses from heating radiator to head and pipe. (Picture) 3. Try to connect cables controlling the injection Thanks Edited September 4, 2022 by frenchiemk2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted September 4, 2022 Share Posted September 4, 2022 1) Tappet clearance should be 0.010" (0.25mm) - the WSM hides it in the text rather than the dimensions and clearance page 2) I think those hoses look right 3) There is one choke cable that connects to the metering unit, to operate the cold enrichment, and the throttle cable to the lever arrangement on the inlet manifold. It's a while since I had my PI but the WSM seems to hint at a second choke cable to operate a cold idle lever which looks similar to the throttle one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted September 4, 2022 Author Share Posted September 4, 2022 1 hour ago, RobPearce said: 1) Tappet clearance should be 0.010" (0.25mm) - the WSM hides it in the text rather than the dimensions and clearance page 2) I think those hoses look right 3) There is one choke cable that connects to the metering unit, to operate the cold enrichment, and the throttle cable to the lever arrangement on the inlet manifold. It's a while since I had my PI but the WSM seems to hint at a second choke cable to operate a cold idle lever which looks similar to the throttle one. Thanks Rob, I thought I could try to fire the engine this week end, but it takes time. and more than i thought because i'm not used to Triumphs. There's a lot in the Haynes, but not as formative than the ones for VW and Audis i have. The parts catalogue that i got from a french auto parts dealer is a mine of informations, and the link you gave me from Canley classics is quite good too. 😀 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted September 4, 2022 Author Share Posted September 4, 2022 At the end of the day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 5, 2022 Share Posted September 5, 2022 Excellent - well done! Not so easy when someone else took it apart years ago. Good luck with the first start - and synchronising the throttles! Nick 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted September 5, 2022 Author Share Posted September 5, 2022 Thankd all of you for online help and support. I lost the radiator filler cap during one year battle... Haynes says 0.5 bar. But i also find a 0.9 bar as a replacememt part. Any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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