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Nick Jones

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Everything posted by Nick Jones

  1. The paradox you have is that as a tall person, the original pattern seats are about the only ones that sit you low enough in the car. People say fit MX5 seats, but those happy with that solution will mostly be short people! I went with early Spitty 1500 seats in my GT6. That’s the vinyl ones with headrests. The head rests do come up just about high enough and with fresh foams the seats seem reasonably comfortable though I’ve not done more than 2 hours so far. My son has MX5 NA separate headrest seats in his Spit. They were way too high (look over the windscreen high). With a double foam-ectomy they are merely too high. He’s also modded the seat structure in the rear corners so they go back far enough. Better, but still some way from ideal. I’m 6’3”, he’s a couple of inches shorter though similar in the body. Nick
  2. I have seen a 6 cyl head with double inserts on one cylinder only, I think to address a crack between the valves. It’s not an easy job for sure, but should be possible. If this is really what is needed I’d be considering another head. Are you sure the inlets are recessed, not typically a problem on inlets. Got any pics? Where do the valve faces sit relative to the roof of the combustion chamber. Should be a couple of mm proud approximately. Big skim making the pushrods too long, or just plain using the wrong pushrods could have the same effect. Nick
  3. I think you are looking in the right area. Definitely a volt-drop issue and the other symptoms make the earth question worth a look, though I thought the pump had its own earth. Not familiar enough with the late Spitfires to point you closer but iirc there are also some multi-plugs behind the dash which don’t always make great contact. Nick
  4. Realistically a nice car is £10 - 14k. Even allowing £5k for paint (my GT6 was half that though I did a fair bit of the initial prep)….. and a couple of weeks pro labour to put it together….. There aren’t so many round tails left, especially the early ones. £5k would be fair, and even then I’d say there’s margin in it. It would cost more to get to where you are unless you were really lucky with your starting point. You can always come down…. Nick
  5. Ok, top end for sure but https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1394480 Or https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1393825 or https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1313925
  6. You are seriously undervaluing this…… just saying. Nick
  7. Still could be the beginnings of a wheel bearing problem, but also, how about your tyres? Any bumps, bulges or feathering of tread blocks? Had an issue with a big Audi a few years ago where it sounded as though all four wheel bearings were shot. I even changed one of them, which made absolutely no difference. It also had some odd handling traits so I got it 4 wheel aligned. It was well out, but actually drove worse afterwards. The alignment guy had been fairly rude about the tyres on it, so I bit the (large) bullet and invested in 4 new tyres. Utterly transformed it for the better. No more noise and drove so much better….. Nick
  8. The old style 70s/80s gutter clamp type roof bars should work without damage if properly fitted. Going to spoil the looks though…… I have a tow bar in the shed…..
  9. It’s on Car and Classic. https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1384493 Maybe elsewhere too. Seems like end of an era….. Nick
  10. As many as I like @ £4/tyre 😳 I have about -£60 worth on that valuation….. Nick
  11. Check out your local mobile fitters. Some of these guys are extremely reasonable. Or back street garages often have tyre fitting gear….. Nick
  12. I have a diy changer because I'm a skinflint (I said it so you don’t have to) Yes, they do need to be bolted to the floor. On mine I also had to modify the bead breaker as there was no chance of it working as supplied. Fine for scruffy steels, but really quite hard not to leave marks on nice wheels. Also there is something about the 5” steels that makes fitting really hard….. I failed and took it to my local guy who struggled even with the proper gear. Something to do with the position or depth of the well he said…. Tyre disposal is a royal pain…… I have a substantial heap….. Nick
  13. Buy a nice car in the US and bring it back after….. Nick
  14. 52k is a pretty good innings for driveshaft UJs IMO. Still could be something else but it’s a pretty common cause of the noise you seem to be describing. Nick
  15. It’s very easy if you have the NHS app (not the track and trace one). I’ve done two trade exhibitions (as an exhibitor) in the last few weeks and my impression of the Covid control systems can be summed up as “lip service”. I was astonished to test negative twice a few days after the first one, and to feel well. I definitely did pick up something at the second one, though all testing has be negative so far, so maybe only a cold. Nick
  16. Been selling hoarded Triumph bits that I’ll never use……. Surprisingly lucrative so far. Clears storage space too. At some point there’ll probably be a grand weigh-in of stuff nobody wants…. Like Roto wishbones. Nick
  17. Try Bastuck direct? €136.85 each, exchange rate around 1.15 https://shop.bastuck2.de/index.php?cat=20000&hg=22700 Ive bought 3 pairs over the last 5 years and they’ve been consistently cheapest. Lark speed usually the cheapest UK supplier. Nick
  18. Like he stole it usually 😛😊 Nick
  19. I agree. Unless it's fitted the wrong way round. What does the fitting on the other end of the hose look like? Nothing wrong with rubber hoses. May give a slightly longer, softer pedal, but not sure it's enough difference to notice. And you can see when they are getting past their best. Nick
  20. Usually a driveshaft UJ where one of the yokes has spread very slightly allowing the UJ spider to shuttle back and forth across the gap (only a few thou) and strike the inside of the cups, making the click, twice for each wheel revolution (though sometimes you only hear it going one way). The cure is to identify the offending side and axis of swivel and either put shims under the circlip or use thicker circlips. Sometimes you'll also find that the offending cup(s) are spinning in the yoke which means it needs renewing. Nick
  21. 😀 Made me chuckle…….. no polisher he….
  22. Bin the Spax and fit Konis, especially at the front. Regret to say that ride height is not down to the dampers, that’s springs (or just possibly partially seized trunnion bushes. I agree on the 1500 needing an oil cooler. Probably the only small chassis Triumph that does in standardish form. Do include an oil-stat in the installation though. Exhaust…… wheel barrow type vary in fit and noise. I’d choose a GT6 Mk3 transverse box in sport pattern I think
  23. I agree actually. However, what we tend to forget as highly experienced, mechanically competent people, is that not all Triumph owners have the benefit a lifetime experience and what seems obvious/trivial to us is a mystery to them. Nick
  24. Well the stuff I got from Merlin (on Vitesse) is 4 years old now and still good. The Glencoe stuff (GT6) is maybe 2.5 years old and still good. So I'm content that it's either genuine or at least fit for purpose. By comparison various lots of "R9" purchased either from AFS direct on via ebay has all fallen apart externally within 9 months. Actually old and well used R6 salvaged with used FI components did better. Nick
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