RobPearce Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 The best one-stop-shop for saloon bits is probably Chris Witor, though I'm not sure how he does on international shipping. Mechanical bits are fairly well supported by Paddocks, Fitchetts, TRGB, Canley or Rimmers (not necessarily in that order). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 13, 2021 Author Share Posted July 13, 2021 Some of the push rods are a bit rusty (spheric end). Do they need to be new or just a little clean-up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 8 hours ago, frenchiemk2 said: Some of the push rods are a bit rusty (spheric end). Do they need to be new or just a little clean-up? Probably just clean up, but new are not that expensive. If you struggle with getting shipping on parts whilst the politicians sort themselves out, you may need to look east to Germany for some parts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 16, 2021 Author Share Posted July 16, 2021 Ordered plenty stuff at Chris Witor. Can i re-use cylinder head nuts and long studs or do i have to replace them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 2 hours ago, frenchiemk2 said: Can i re-use cylinder head nuts and long studs or do i have to replace them? That depends on the condition. They're not "stretch bolt" types so there's no inherent reason they can't be re-used, but if the threads are rusty they may be fatigued so that they won't take the required torque. That's more of a problem on the 4-cylinder or Mk1 2L engines, where the studs are 3/8", than on the PI with 7/16" studs, but still worth considering. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 30, 2021 Author Share Posted July 30, 2021 Just received stuff from Chris Witor. OMG taxes since Brexit😒 Next step next week 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosbif Posted July 30, 2021 Share Posted July 30, 2021 15 minutes ago, frenchiemk2 said: Just received stuff from Chris Witor. OMG taxes since Brexit😒 Next step next week 😁 I've seen others complaining about the taxes/charges since Brexit but not the details. You should have purchased without VAT (TVA), on arrival here the company delivering should have asked for the VAT. There is then the grey area of other taxes due or not as a result of the lack of finalised trade agreements. Then on top of that some companies are adding their 'administrative' costs. La Poste have said that they will pay the VAT on goods when received here then get the customer to refund at delivery. My wife buys a lot of embroidery stuff from Scotland and so far has not had to pay any extras. The company have said that they are looking at reducing the prices so that when they arrive in Europe there is no overall increase to the customer. some of the items bought are made in the EU, shipped to Scotland before coming back again. Would you mind posting a copy of the details as I'm curious? so far I've avoided having to buy bits from the UK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted August 16, 2021 Author Share Posted August 16, 2021 Lower engine cleaned and cylinders honed. 🙂 I was about to put the cylinder head in place but i deceided to check first... 😅 OMG. 3 valves stuck and 1 water hole filled with solid rust seal (reminder the reason why the head was disassembled : cylinder head gasket leak)... 🤔 Let's do it the right way... control the contact surface, all the valves disassembling and renewing before final assembly... Will need more time than I imagined first.🙄 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosbif Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 2 hours ago, frenchiemk2 said: Will need more time than I imagined first.🙄 That is always the case,but it will be worth it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted August 22, 2021 Author Share Posted August 22, 2021 Well... after 1 week oiling and lubricating... still stuck. At this point, i'm thinking bringing the whole thing to a pro for checks, and see if it's possible to put exhaust rings/seats for unleaded. I'm afraid to have to replace sealings and brass guides for valves Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted August 22, 2021 Share Posted August 22, 2021 Have you tried hitting the stuck valves with a hammer? Make sure there's room for them to move, so rest the head on something to give clearance, then hit a few times on the head, a few times on the other end, repeat. If that frees them, all well and good. If not then I suspect the guides are past saving and it's a job for an experienced machine shop. I know exactly where I'd take it from here but do you have a reputable "pro" near you? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted August 22, 2021 Author Share Posted August 22, 2021 25 minutes ago, RobPearce said: do you have a reputable "pro" near you? thanks for tips Rob. I tried gently (not to bend the valves) with a hammer, one is moving"ish" better, but not the 2 other. You pointed at the real thing : a pro for English cars or vintage cars near La Rochelle France... i'll check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted August 23, 2021 Share Posted August 23, 2021 Frenchie, Only just caught up with your exciting thread! You have retrieved the rusted bores, well done, not a surpise to me, as I have a working engine that stood in the rain for some time with no head on. The bores were full of water, but as you did, taking time, soaking in penetrant and trying to turn it every day, worked! But will the head seal? Your block face was as badly rusted as the bores, and the head may be the same. I'd suggest taking out the head studs, to clean the block face as well as possible, and as the head is off already and you may need help to replace the valve guides, have the head face lightly skimmed, so it is really flat. John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted August 23, 2021 Author Share Posted August 23, 2021 1 hour ago, JohnD said: I'd suggest taking out the head studs, to clean the block face as well as possible, and as the head is off already and you may need help to replace the valve guides, have the head face lightly skimmed, so it is really flat. John Thanks for your advice. I've seen a Youtube tread last night (Spitfire head rebuilt): not so complicated but i don't have any strong hydraulic press. So i'll bring the head to a pro, (surface, valves guides, valves seals... hope no new valves!)... just have to find the good pro! And i'll try to remove the upper studs on the block to clean the surface (done with a cutter blade but could be better). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted August 24, 2021 Author Share Posted August 24, 2021 Good news of the day : valves unstuck on every impulse. Next step : valve disassembling and lapping. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted August 27, 2021 Author Share Posted August 27, 2021 Well. Valves out. Oily rust on the rods... So I think I did well removing them... Shame that valves seal seemed not so old... One upper valve guide broke... (😢 ) well i wish it's only the guide... And that a pro can remove it now it's broken... 4 mates gave me professional address from 50min to 1h20 from home... At that point I think about replacing or not the valves too to fit new valve guides... Because some little marks... Springs will be replaced... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted August 28, 2021 Share Posted August 28, 2021 Great progress getting the head stripped down - I would expect the professionals to be able to get it sorted without a problem. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted August 28, 2021 Author Share Posted August 28, 2021 Well I need your expertise here. That part broke when i casted out one of the former stucked valves. 1st i thought its a bit of the head (because the material looks like cast iron rather than brass material) , but looking closely, it might be the valve guide sleeve itself? Any confirmation/invalidation would be welcome. What is confusing me are parts for renwal like valves guides that i can spot on internet stores have different shapes and also some say top valves seals only for inlet valves while my head had seals both on inlets and outlets. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted August 28, 2021 Share Posted August 28, 2021 Triumph didn't fit seals on any of the valves on those engines. The rocker area isn't supposed to be swimming in oil so there's no need to seal it out. In fact, what little oil does get onto the valve stems is good for lubrication. I think, although I've never replaced valve guides myself, that what you've broken is probably all part of the guide. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteStupps Posted August 29, 2021 Share Posted August 29, 2021 The broken part in that photo is the valve guide. The standard guides are iron, not brass. As Rob says, originally they would not have had valve seals but it is a fairly common modification to add them - usually only to the inlets because they will be the ones sucking oil into the cylinder. I have no experience with 6-cylinder engines but personally I don't think there is any need for valve seals, if the guides and valves are in good condition. For my engines I have had new guides (without seals) and valves fitted, and have been happy with the results. Some of your valves were seized so I would expect the guides and valves to be in a bad shape (literally) so I would replace them all. Unless cost is a real problem...? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 29, 2021 Share Posted August 29, 2021 As Pete says, that is the guide which is broken. No big deal. Those guides have been modified to take seals, the standard ones do not have that step machined in them. Probably best to change them all, and possibly the valves too if the stems are pitted by rust? The standard cast iron guides are cheap and work fine. You can pay more (much more!) for phosphor bronze guides machined for modern stem seals. Chris Witor has some beauties on offer but at a price. Last head I did I bought some plain phosphor bronze guides from Peter Burgess and machined the inlet ones to take modern seals, however, you don't really need the seals if the guides are good and you stick with the standard oiling system (no external feed!). Guides can be pressed out quite easily, even hammered out with a suitable drift, but best to press the new ones in to avoid damage. They will also need the bore reaming to size after fitting and the valve seats should then be re-cut to be concentric with the new guides. If you are going to fit unleaded seats for the exhaust valves, this is the time! Nick 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosbif Posted August 30, 2021 Share Posted August 30, 2021 Frenchiemk2 : A bit of news that might be of interest to you. I've just had an email from Rimmers saying they can now offer "Delivery Duty Paid" service, that is to say no extra/hidden costs. At the moment an order has to be placed by phone or email but they will soon be able to accept orders via their web site. https://rimmerbros.cmail20.com/t/ViewEmail/t/5DE08E4D8442A3F62540EF23F30FEDED/CFF86C24625AFD4CC4DA2C823DDA3384 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted August 30, 2021 Author Share Posted August 30, 2021 On 29/08/2021 at 02:05, PeteStupps said: The broken part in that photo is the valve guide. The standard guides are iron, not brass. As Rob says, originally they would not have had valve seals but it is a fairly common modification to add them - usually only to the inlets because they will be the ones sucking oil into the cylinder. I have no experience with 6-cylinder engines but personally I don't think there is any need for valve seals, if the guides and valves are in good condition. For my engines I have had new guides (without seals) and valves fitted, and have been happy with the results. Some of your valves were seized so I would expect the guides and valves to be in a bad shape (literally) so I would replace them all. Unless cost is a real problem...? Yes, i've already read that the inlets had seals, and i was surprised seeing seals on all 12 guides! And i noticed most of them looked quite new or in very nice condition. Maybe the cylinderhead for continental Europe was different or mine was renewed? I will examine closely all valves rods, but i will certainly replace the 3 that were seized and all the guides + valves seats for E85 as my cylinderhead is dismanteled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosbif Posted August 30, 2021 Share Posted August 30, 2021 1 hour ago, frenchiemk2 said: + valves seats for E85 as my cylinderhead is dismanteled. E85? Are you sure, E10 Fair enough but E85? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted August 30, 2021 Author Share Posted August 30, 2021 1 hour ago, Rosbif said: E85? Are you sure, E10 Fair enough but E85? sorry : unleaded! 😅 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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