carboy0
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Everything posted by carboy0
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Thanks Matt, When you say say you had BDM needles machined, what was done exactly and who did them?
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Thanks Gavin, will do.
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Thanks Gavin, will do.
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The restrictive part is the narrow bit in front of the carb mouth. The incoming air has to turn through a tight 90 degrees. If there was a bigger space in front of the front carb mouth, the air could be drawn in more directly at less of a tight angle. Pipercross, K&N, Ramair or any other open filter will allow more air through, with the downside that there is more induction roar. Also, instead of feeding off a cold air intake, the open filters are feeding off much warmer (less dense/less oxygen rich) air heated from passing through the radiator and/or heated by the exhaust system and the engine block itself. On a B Series engine, I fitted a Ramair open filter fed from a cold air inlet and with stub stacks to help the air to turn more smoothly.
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The restrictive part is the narrow bit in front of the carb mouth. The incoming air has to turn through a tight 90 degrees. If there was a bigger space in front of the front carb mouth, the air could be drawn in more directly at less of a tight angle. Pipercross, K&N, Ramair or any other open filter will allow more air through, with the downside that there is more induction roar. Also, instead of feeding off a cold air intake, the open filters are feeding off much warmer (less dense/less oxygen rich) air heated from passing through the radiator and/or heated by the exhaust system and the engine block itself. On a B Series engine, I fitted a Ramair open filter fed from a cold air inlet and with stub stacks to help the air to turn more smoothly.
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Thanks for the advice Nick, I didn’t know about the cast twin downpipe exhaust manifold. I like the idea of the 308778 cam, I know from tuning other non-Triumph cars that changing the camshaft on its own doesn’t release the full potential of the cam and that often the distributor cam and springs need changing as well. I was thinking that switching to the dizzie, from the same car the cam came from would help realise it’s full potential or does anyone have any experience of the optimum distributor curve? Also, the car “benefits” from the remote air filter, elephant trunk and enclosed narrow plenum, as the twin HS6s are on their long manifold - I believe that it is very restrictive. Does anyone have any ideas on sensible improvements that will fit in the tight gap with the suspension turret?
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Thanks for the advice Nick, I didn’t know about the cast twin downpipe exhaust manifold. I like the idea of the 308778 cam, I know from tuning other non-Triumph cars that changing the camshaft on its own doesn’t release the full potential of the cam and that often the distributor cam and springs need changing as well. I was thinking that switching to the dizzie, from the same car the cam came from would help realise it’s full potential or does anyone have any experience of the optimum distributor curve? Also, the car “benefits” from the remote air filter, elephant trunk and enclosed narrow plenum, as the twin HS6s are on their long manifold - I believe that it is very restrictive. Does anyone have any ideas on sensible improvements that will fit in the tight gap with the suspension turret?
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Ah, should have let you have more information about the car. It’s a 1971 Mk2 2000 Saloon, originally single carb, but now on twin HS6s, with the long inlet manifold, remote air cleaner and elephant trunk hose and the thin plenum mounted onto the carbs. The car has a Chris Witor stainlessexhaust system, but I think the exhaust manifold is standard. What are my options on exhaust manifolds? Is there something that can be mated to the stainless system? I’m not sure what the standard cam is, but I suspect the engine is pretty standard inside, any idea what cam it should have as standard? I don’t want a screamer, I would like something torquey and tractable, that will make the next RBRR enjoyable.
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Ah, should have let you have more information about the car. It’s a 1971 Mk2 2000 Saloon, originally single carb, but now on twin HS6s, with the long inlet manifold, remote air cleaner and elephant trunk hose and the thin plenum mounted onto the carbs. The car has a Chris Witor stainlessexhaust system, but I think the exhaust manifold is standard. What are my options on exhaust manifolds? Is there something that can be mated to the stainless system? I’m not sure what the standard cam is, but I suspect the engine is pretty standard inside, any idea what cam it should have as standard? I don’t want a screamer, I would like something torquey and tractable, that will make the next RBRR enjoyable.
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As a newbie to the big Saloon, I am learning all the time about my new car & engine. Can anyone advise on what camshafts work well in the 2000? Discounting the standard one for a moment, do for example 2.5PI 150bhp camshafts help the 2000 or is that a mismatch? Then there the aftermarket Piper, Newman etc.etc. options. Of course there is the option to drop in a 2.5, but having driven one recently,I prefer the rev-ier nature of the 2000. I saw this table on the Chris Witor website, which lists the Triumph cam shaft options and it prompted the thought process https://www.chriswitor.com/cw_technical/camshaft_applications.pdf
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As a newbie to the big Saloon, I am learning all the time about my new car & engine. Can anyone advise on what camshafts work well in the 2000? Discounting the standard one for a moment, do for example 2.5PI 150bhp camshafts help the 2000 or is that a mismatch? Then there the aftermarket Piper, Newman etc.etc. options. Of course there is the option to drop in a 2.5, but having driven one recently,I prefer the rev-ier nature of the 2000. I saw this table on the Chris Witor website, which lists the Triumph cam shaft options and it prompted the thought process https://www.chriswitor.com/cw_technical/camshaft_applications.pdf
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Slow, very slow. Got the toothed wheel on behind the crank pulley and need to fab the crankshaft sensor bracket next. I got sidetracked in prepping the car for the RBRR, so I need to get back to plan A now. I finally put the Lambda sensor boss on the vertical section of the downpipe for the left cylinder bank.
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RBRR 2018 IMPORTANT NOTICE
carboy0 replied to Tim Bancroft's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
Looking forward to this, I will be popping my cherry in 2018. -
Canems
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Thanks Laurence, I need to reread my ECU handbook to see whether I can run two sensors or whether it will only work off one. If there is room, I could run one on the front of the near side manifold where the 4-2-1 is reduced to one. Chris
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Thanks Nick - very good link. Chris
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Hopefully one of you EFi-iers can advise. I am building a TV8 EFi. Whereabouts in the exhaust system have you mounted the lambda sensor. I run a complete SS system including manifolds. The only crossover point is the bridge in front of the silencers. Is this too far back for the lambda sensor? Any advice welcomed. CHRIS
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Link to article on SOC forum http://socforum.com/forum/showthread.php?32580-Replacing-choke-cable&highlight=Choke+cable
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It's possible to remove the knob off the cable. If it's an original choke knob, when you pull it out, you'll see a very fine pin that goes through the knob and cable. It is V small. Push it out with a pin and keep it somewhere safe. You can then remove the knob and the dash panel. I posted a 'how to' with pictures on the SOC forum. Chris