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Sandgroper

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  1. Hi, Having had the same problem some time ago sympathise!!   In my case it was sloppy re-assembly in that I had connected the choke on the Strombergs 180 degrees out, so the choke wasn't working! Once sorted it started OK. Sounds silly but maybe worth a re-check?
  2. Hi, I am a GT6 owner looking for some advice to relay to my son in Adelaide. He tells me that Stags are a pretty reasonable price out there, compared to transporting the GT6 and paying the importation tax! Are there any massive 'no,no's' to Stag cars. Where are the rot spots etc?
  3. Hi Paul, If Andy doesn't require them I am still looking for a pair as part of my CV joint conversion!!!   Regards Sandgroper
  4. Hi Simon,  Thanks for that and your interest. I have more or less decided to utilise the existing and have them machined. I did find one source, Quillers, but the price was a bit steep for probably maltreated used examples when compared with Canley alloys.  I have no reason to believe that the machining will go wrong, of course. My initial concern was that I would have a basket case on my drive with no rear support!!! The car is in  A1/A2 condition so I needed a doomsday option, if you take my drift. I have been busy holidaying and required a new motor mover on my caravan, so the car is just now ready for the road. The driveshafts are completed and ready to fit next year probably. Australia is my next trip so the car will have to wait. While there I will compare notes with my son who will inherit the beast.  Just for interest's sake I checked just how many Mk3 GT6's were made 13,042! So they are genuinely Vehicles of Historical Interest!!! Regards Glyn  
  5. Hi Nick,   Thanks for that. Looks like its 'all or nothing'! No problem really as already I have the MG hubs and bearings, but wanted to slot things together on the bench ready to fit, plus having the original layout there if it was ever needed (not by me!). Best option is probably to bite the bullet and get the hubs machined when I get my scrappy to show up with my second Rover shaft. If anything goes belly up I can get a 'new' set of vertical links. Regards Glyn S
  6. Hi all, Part way through making up a set of CV joint driveshafts to the Nick Jones pattern. Just a couple of queries regarding the set up which some of you may have already met and resolved. Just trying to get an idea of just how flexible the options are! 1. Using the Rover outer joint/stub axle. Can this be fitted into the standard GT6 hub, shim problem and all?  2. I intend to fit MGF hubs and bearings. Even second hand vertical links are in short supply atm and Quillers want £130 each!!! With Canley alloy links at £149 they become a possible alternative. Would there be enough meat on them to withstand the machining necessary to take the MGF bearings?  3. As an unlikely prospect, if all else failed would the MG bearing be a fit with the original Rotoflex shaft. Regards  Sandgroper.  
  7. Hi Nick, Thanks for that! It is the fast boots that I will be buying, not available cheaply!!! I think it is the 'lithium' bit that matters, but there isn't a lot of real direction out there. I have started clearing out the garage to get at the CV shafts (well I've cleared a bit of the bench!!). Joints all  feel good anyway.   Regards   Glyn S
  8. Hi and  happy Easter  CV enthusiasts!!! Just trying to find out which grease to use on the inner CV joints (when I actually assemble them, adapters awaited!!). The outer boots are accompanied by grease sachets, but the inners are clean and need grease.  
  9. Probably stick with the GT 6 studs, but another option is always handy. Oh, by the way, Nick, its OK for you in sunny Somerset  - I live in chilly Cheshire!!!
  10. Fortunately I have the hubs 'in my hand'. Just too cold to get into the garage, which desperately needs a severe clean out before I start work!!!!!  
  11. To replace the MGF studs do the standard Triumph 3/8" studs fit, or is that too much to ask? I guess that it is down to the splined base size? I know that it has been done before so there is presumably a supplier of large splined 3/8" studs. If I modify my steel wheels to take the MG studs I will loose the pretty GT6 wheel centres unless they can be modified.
  12. Am I missing something or are there no oil seals on the MGF bearings? I don't have the bearings yet, just curious! Bought new hub flanges (£44 ea) and have to re-stud them to fit the Triumph wheels.
  13. Thanks for that invaluable info Nick. It is as I was hoping, but I guess I panicked!!!! Just got to barter for the hubs, and strip them I suspect. This place is a real scrap yard rather than a dismantler. Still I know just how much they cost so its just simple maths. The joints feel tight with no play so should be OK. If anyone in the Cheshire are needs a Volvo shaft, there is another one available. PM me for the address etc. All in all a satisfying day - Hex bolts defeated and another sortie into a scrap yard. It must be 60yrs since I enjoyed that experience!!!!!! So, onward and upward!!! Thanks again for your help.
  14. I throw myself onto your mercy again! I have visited my scrappy and am within touching distance of securing my Volvo driveshaft! Just a few bits of information needed, if anyone can help. Volvo Axle removal After spending a jolly couple of hours under the rear of a Volvo 340, playing with reluctant hex screws. I have managed to loosen them all but had a crisis of conscience because, never having seen a CV joint dismantled, I’m not sure just where the parts that I need part with the gearbox and hub. I will return to the scrappy later in the week to finish the job. My worry was that I might just despatch the innards of the joints onto the floor! Any advice would be most welcome. As I see it my problems are as follows: Inner Volvo Joint The hex bolts are all loose now – do I just take them out or are there other fastenings that need to be released? How do I release the shaft from the gearbox? The side of the gearbox is loosened as well, just in case I need to take it off. Outer Volvo Joint The Hex bolts are all loosened but seem to fasten the joint a heavy looking inner part of the hub. Is that part of the joint itself? How do I release the shaft from the hub? Do I need to undo anything else?
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