Pete Lewis

I would also check the inhibitor switch  , when its playing up hold the gear stick to the left and to the right 

if that has some effect it  shows its the inhibitor needs a little adjustment 

is this on a 2500  so is it J type or A type OD  ????

On J type it can be the solenoid internals need a good clean out , remove the sol remove smal circlip shake out the internal plunger/spool valve and clean it all   this can give the OD a mind of its own 

the easy one is worn out wiring to the gear stick switch

Pete

cant advise on A Types 

Pete

know one has mentioned the chance of making those nasty rubber slivers  these are small slices of hose thet can get cut off by inserting metal pipes and they float about in the lines and will eventually block the back of the float needle valves 

its worth being aware with all the messing about with the pipe run will get these crafty little sods to breed and give you a surprised misfire when you dont want it 

it happens a lot , less with high quality hose but they are out there 

waiting to get you annoyed 

Pete

i would also make sure the temperature compensators are screwed fully shut  as with age they become a permanent throttle air bypass and idle mixtures cannot be set properly  just screw the small nut to close the plunger ..for good  and  seal the two body 0 rings . 

an other way is turn the middle gasket upside down so it blocks the air bypass for good .

on a biased needle the small delrin washer on the head of the needle should be level with the base of the air piston to be about right .

Pete

there been a rumbling this is cancelled     far from it 

there will now be tea coffee and cateriing snack and tssc shop available 

the wearther is improving and 23c is forecast with no rain  

Pete

cant load this in events but we are on course for a good day out with full museum access the gates for classic car enrty 

open at9am  and  close at 12oclock  dont be late the site is open till 6pm 

without knowing how to control covid rules we will not be doing our usual refreshments or raffle 

this may change as time moves on but thats why its now a PICNIC    so bring your own food please 

no pre booking but its cash at the gate on the day  £16  each adult 

Peter

double check the diaphragm is not failed , or one made of thick rubber it should be a thin gossamer  flimsy .

make sure the location lugs are locating so the two holes in the  base of the air piston 

looking down are engine side not offset 

as you have had the carb on off check behind the float needle for the rubber slivers Rob mentions  these are formed when you push hose onto metal pipes and are crafty little sods 

at blocking the back of the float needle 

Pete

if you get one that will lift on the chassis then its only good to take the wheels off you cant do much underneath as the lift baulks any access  its a must have bit of kit that  you dont really need it does very little to help you .

i know of a good few that just gather oil drips and dust 

Pete

one thing that can affect piston drop is aftermarket diaphragms made of thick stif rubber  they should be thin gossamer , not recycled elephant condoms .

the needles will be biased (sprung) so they wont /cant be  centralised 

do have a look if on the side you the small platsic covers temperature compensators only 2 screws to remove them  but they need to be adjusted so at normal temperature the small valve

is fully shut , this add a bypass air past the throttles to weaken hot mixtures , 

if this little sod is open when it should be closed you will never set the idle mixture 

adjust the small nut to shut the ruddy thing for good, its a emmission aid thats a pain 

the housing has 2  0 rings to seal it to the body  these disintegrate and leak air 

one simple dodge is turn the carb to manifold gasket upside down and you effectively delete the TC operation and any unscheduled idle air bypassing .

set the needles with the small delrin washer just level with the base of the air piston 

thats the factory set , if its proud or recesses somethings wrong 

Pete

there are dimensional chassis drawings in the workshop manuals 

the body comes off in two parts  the separation is the  bolted seam under the seats 

two people can lift the bulkhead  or the rear quite easily 

no need to support door apertures as when separated there is no structure needing support 

apart from rotten bits hanging off .

dont forget to disconnect any seat belts and the handbrake cables 

dont forget the two mounts in the boot diff mount x member 

you need disconnect  or break/split  the  tail harness 

places like the A post base and body mounts will be shot , new floor pans do not have a full 

pressed finish so the A post and sill needs a lot of  forming its not a straight swap panel 

Pete

if it has a failed angle drive they MUST have a 7/16dia washer to act as a spacer between the gearbox drive and the angle drive or you pre load the bevel gears and it fails 

theres a tech note about this and if you look on rimmer they invalidate any warranty if no washer is fitted 

Pete

 Dave  I  recommend  Mintex  Ceratec paste far better than copaslip

its   available in tubes 

many places sell shim kits incl  TSSC shop if you need some 

Pete

you may need the forward radiator mounting brackets , depends what vintage the herald chassis

from memory the 13/60 is same the 1200 is not 

Pete

im not sure this is crank related , so it rumbles when torque is asked for   ???  have you really carefully eliminated exhaust contact under load or even failed clutch disc damper springs 

or any other out the box idea , if you keep rebuilding the engine but the problem returns 

you could be chasing the wrong culprit 

Pete

on my mk2 i installed stag spreader bars , they are the same but have +15mm on the cable arm makes a wonderful improvement to the handbrake and being so much cheaper than 2000 ones its a easy uplift .if you need new ones 

Pete

do take care   that bolts fitted to the front bearing sealing block do not bottom out its alloy and will strip easily im sure you will find some bolts are longer where they go through a reinforced flange and shorter in single skin 

the front block is a well known Oops  !!!    for failing/leaking 

if this happens you can tap 8mm metric , or drill  and tap 3/8unf  or buy a steel block from most suppliers to recover a striped block

Pete

plus have to run it with the viscous fan removed ???

Pete

you could try a alternative spring or fit  the 1600 heavy damper diaphragm ring 

pete

if the filter was aplastic type had the hose clip crushed the pipe to a big restriction 

thats another common fault  along with rubber slivers  the more you take a part you make more of the little sods 

pete

never dispel the ideas of the dreaded rubber slivers nasty little sods get cut off the hose bore when inserting metal pipes , they randomly float about and block the back of the float needle valves can drive you mad 

need to remove the valve and check behing where they hide and also pump a little fuel into a jar see if you catch some 

also check the hose to the top fuel tank outlet , good place to suck air but not show a leak due to no head of fuel present when parked up.

Pete

did you do this hot or cold?  were throttle held open ?? all plugs out  ??

all makes a difference 

Pete

do check

the the fuel cap is venting

the coil feed is correct polarity ( this is an old nutshell of it runs stops you get out faf around give it a kick and it restarts till next time  .)

Pete

and not mentioned but you will find on most triumph ratios that 3rd OD is the same as direct 4th 

its  not the best use of ratios you cant use it as a split shift  you only get 5   not 6 

Pete

track rods are threaded 1/2"unf   for all  small chassis  models 

with ref to the float needle valves I have Hs4 on the 2000  and flooding for ever despite tipped un tipped etc on magnifying the float the all plastic  needle platform had a series or fine ridges worn in the top of the float , these would tip/jam the valve from seating , a new set of floats problem solved 

which ever needle type was fitted ,  and filing the platform  dosnt work ,, lousy, stuff makes more ruts  

anoying when it all looks ok till you get real close 

never mind the  dreaded floating rubber slivers that get shaved off inside the lines every time you fit a hose to a metal pipe and block the float valves 

Pete

as they fit in 14" wheels i used Stag calipers and discs as half the price of 2000/2500 units 

and stag rear shoe expanders  on std shoes as they are same parts except the handbrake lever is 15mm longer and gives a really good handbrake

Pete