Pete Lewis

leave it all alone

Pete

i was thinking door hinges ,  locks , throttle linkages , handbrake lever and ratchet, and all things
generally need de squeaking and always get forgotten ,  the list is endless but a  regular squirt keeps the
abandoned and often hidden things running remarkable more smoothly

so its a john wayne stance with grease in one hand and oily mitts in the other
Pete

i was thinking door hinges ,  locks , throttle linkages , handbrake lever and ratchet, and all things
generally need de squeaking and always get forgotten ,  the list is endless but a  regular squirt keeps the
abandoned and often hidden things running remarkable more smoothly

so its a john wayne stance with grease in one hand and oily mitts in the other
Pete

Thats a good result

tip oil everything that moves where ever its hiding
pete

Thats a good result

tip oil everything that moves where ever its hiding
pete

And to add it stops the door lifting and disengaging the cam lock from the striker

as it is sprung to close the 'gap'    its quite important its free and the spring returns the wedge ,
springs fail and are not available, I have with a bit of reforming managed to repair some with springs from an assortment box or even the odd retractable ball pen.

pete

And to add it stops the door lifting and disengaging the cam lock from the striker

as it is sprung to close the 'gap'    its quite important its free and the spring returns the wedge ,
springs fail and are not available, I have with a bit of reforming managed to repair some with springs from an assortment box or even the odd retractable ball pen.

pete

If there is no oil drips down from behind  the flywheel just go  'great'  and leave it all alone  its working fine  
pete

If there is no oil drips down from behind  the flywheel just go  'great'  and leave it all alone  its working fine  
pete

Scrolls are good they  never wear out
flywheel off is easy, to centalise the scroll hsg if its needed is just equally space some feelers between hsg and crank, you can do it simply with  the engine in situ ,
certainly does not need the crank out  
you would only need a new hsg. If it had been fouled by the crank and damaged

if you have some feeler strip you run it round the crank but 3 similar feelers will do the job very easily,
From experience it will not need any attention,  they may have some misting around the hsg,  normal.
like gearbox front scrolls  if parked on the side of Mount everest they can leak as can over filling,

Scrolls are good they  never wear out
flywheel off is easy, to centalise the scroll hsg if its needed is just equally space some feelers between hsg and crank, you can do it simply with  the engine in situ ,
certainly does not need the crank out  
you would only need a new hsg. If it had been fouled by the crank and damaged

if you have some feeler strip you run it round the crank but 3 similar feelers will do the job very easily,
From experience it will not need any attention,  they may have some misting around the hsg,  normal.
like gearbox front scrolls  if parked on the side of Mount everest they can leak as can over filling,

the uprights only fail due to lack of oil bath and corrosion sets in and cracks emanate from there.

being so unreliable ???  makes you wonder why they have lasted all these years probably with far less failures than modern ball joints and with the trunnion less you need to keep them well lubricated and also very Clean or they will also wear out ,much  better suited  on a track than covered in  every day road debris   and when someone decides where to cross the line with the latest ideas on modified cars is this a step you need to add to the confusion
Pete

if the ujs are cross pins and cups you wont solve a seized cup needle roller with any oiling
certainly on many makes of  cars this lumpy wind up steering is always down to the column couplings seized .

Pete

this does seem more column uj/flexibles than rack, but you must reduce the rack shift , re clamp or new rubbers etc.

Pete

the caged plates are very thin and doesnt take much to strip the threads , they dont like a lot of work, ive tapped oversize in 8mm metric and 3/8unf , if in real trouble you can hole saw  the a post and get a socket with a nut on the back of the plate, bit extreme ,  
if its the door captive you can with the cards off  fiddle a nut on the back , you may need to drill through the cage
and with bigger bolts you need to open up the hinge holes , it will restrict some adjustment movement.

Pete

if the fork had dislocated from the carrier i guess the x shaft would slide left/right as the carrier is about all that locates it.
roll pin or dowel bolt seems favourite . but the dowel bolts a always feindishly tight and pretty hardend things .
if the roll pin had failed i reckon the lever would show signs of falling off. its shaft

cant see any size of slave variation giving you what youve found ., could give operational hic ups but not all that lost /loose lever travel

Pete

Bob you mean the locking lever handles either side  or the 948 style   centre of bonnet lifting handle  ???

Pete

if you are rebuilding the car maybe a workshop manual on your christmas wish list would aid the investment ???

Pete

No they dont do gearboxes just specialise in all the overdrives
dave twigger will talk you through any problem    for free.

pete

Thats good  no matter how much i ramble on about it many miss the little sod hidden inside   dont know what else
maybe a call to dave twigger at od spares rugby

http://www.odspares.com/
    

Straight ....    the other one is bent

of they have flats worn on you can drill them out and weld in a clevis pin as a repair

if  the throwout is only 15mm thick add a washer under the lightly pressed in spherical post this realigns the lever as orig bearing was 19 mm thick   all the losses add up poor action.

if the carrier has worn  by the lever pins ,remove the anti rotaion pin and drill elswhere to use some unworn groove

pete

Not much more I can dream up , it still has all the snags of inhibitor messing up ,
how about you make up a bypass lead and toggle switch to prove its completely eliminated
Just dont use it in 1 2 or reverese with the od engaged

Nang did you remove the  J  solenoid inner plunger, it should rattle if you  the shake the sol  firmly.
they only seem to supply O rings for the outer body not the piston valve one hidden inside
just a thought

pete

mazfg is Dtype on the 2000 its J type,  i found the inner piston in the solenoid was sticking , needs a thin 1"af spanner to undo the sol,
dont grip its case you can wreck it,  and remove the small  10mm  circlip inside and pop the piston out for a good clean and all intermittent mind of its own solved  dont need to drain the oil either .

mazfg,  have you tested the holding coil  current should pull in at 10 amps and the switch to 0.5 amps , theres a switch mechanism in the end of the solenoid can be very corroded over the years   ( some  later ones are solid state you cant service the contact)

was that on the gearbox being operated by its cam or  switch on bench ?
Pete

this switch can give lots of interrupted if not making good plunger pressure , its only a bell push inside  and they can be quite corroded
if its a simple crimped case you can disassemble and clean but some later ones are sealed for life  what ever that gives.
the fact it plays up differently in 3rd to what happens in 4th is got to be selection related not overdrive related
the OD doesnt know what gear youre in
Pete