Pete Lewis

this is a common fault if the coil is wired in reverse polarity  IE it should have with a neg battery earth  the white to the +ve and the dizzy lead to the -ve
runs for a while , dies, you get out kick a few bits and miricales shes starts. only to die again soon.
do double check the coil ign feeds are right way round
then change the coil if all else fails
more strong tea required
and there is no R in the spark plug letters

Pete

These are a universal kit,   sort of fits all , they are not model specific its an aftermarket add on.
all the ones ive fitted have the valve in the elbow.
pete

electronic set ups dont have a condenser, there was an artile way back in mag , they cut a cond open to finf it should have about 3mtr of foil it only  had 300mm    thers some clues on dizzy doctor site about crap condensers
old school a fail one would give you an idle but throttle it up an lots of bangs and pops as it stray sparks the plugs and fires hopelessly on load.
th later dodgy ones seem to give very misguided running . with erratic to ok for no reason
had a good few in my area
pete

advance vacuum is generated from under the throttle plate , nothing to do with the manifold vacuum that powers the servo or the vac gauge
what readings do youmsee on the vacuum  gauge at idle  should be around 18 to 21 in,hg
you cant tune a downdraft you can only adust the idle speed and the idle mixture, if the idle is set too high the idle mixture screw will not have much effect,  and needs the idle slowing down to make the ixle circuit start to work

One  most likely  problem is the slow running jet , halfway down the back of the carb is blocked if this is the case it will rev but hates to idle
they are not easy to clean as any poking around will pop any debris inside
the jet body , only to repeat its antics later

if unsure about arcing ,,,, try looking when its dark   there should not be any

What i was tyring to establish is there are vastly differing specifications of CD150  that just  a  family of carb designs , was this carb suppose to be set up for a 1147 herald ???
The pulse or surging when you try to drive off can be so many things from wrong needles to fuel starvations,  and much more
We need to know just what you have fitted or guesswork wont solve anything
Is there a brass tag  with a number on one of the top camber screws?

Apart from is there any idea the stromberg is the right spec to use on the 1200 does it have the correct needle spring and damper ring weight for this engine ??

pulsing can be its base setting is seriously too weak, and one favoirite is the rubber slivers off the fuel hoses which float and block the  back of the float needle input  
Pete

B &B supply a small tube of red mechanical spline grease with their kits
im not a lover of copaslip its an anti seize compound not a lubricant

pete

Even if the fixing lugs and push rod have any small differences its got to be fittable
LR parts always seem to have a low mark up and hence less £££
many  LR parts are compatible  using commonly available  supplier parts bins.
pete

Thats what i woud have expected  my  Mk2   back plate has 2 dowels  there is no dowel provision in the backplate for any clutch hsg dowels, there are dowel holes in the hsg but absolutely diddy squat in the back plate to fit anything ,, only bolt holes

even took the back plate off thinking  i can see two dowels, has some muppet had pressed them right through , but had i been a bit more observant they  are just back plate /block location dowels , and dont align anywhere near the drilling in the c hsg.  which are just blind against the plate  

struck me as odd , the 3  -  3/8"bolts  seem some sort of compromised  design  

the back plate looks aged original , its not a repro part .
Pete


Pete

well the box is back in, surprised there are no dowel locations for the clutch hsg, there are 3x 3/8" bolts (over and above the normal 5/16"ones )
and these 3 are not exactly a 'fit' size   not my idea of keeping it all concentric

just new prop and exhaust to button up and shes done
pete

Just had the  J type  OD off my gearbox and it pop on /off easy
there is a plug or nipple to pressurise the clutch pump but ive not needed to
Its located next to the filter cover
the j type has a self aligning pump 'big end' so positioning the cam low  is not needed

if alignment on refit is blocked , just pry the two piston bars with a couple of screwdrivers and this opens the clutch  just remove them when it drops on.

pete

With new spring and   plug the load is still only 15lbs to pull 1/2nd selector
its the same spring and reading on 3rd4th I am begining to think the 27lbs in the manual
Are for the early boxes which had a ramped detent plunger not just the simple ball

the only way to raise the load is to redesign the selector detent groove to be  sharper  deeper

not going to get carried away with that idea
but with 1st jumping out and a supposedly low detent load   I wont solve the problem
without some definite improvement
its not worn sleeve or dog tooth wear or any endfloat on the gears or sleeve, they are perfect.
ive fitted the german baulk rings which  only work on synchronising they have no effect on jump outs  

just been checking the pull loads on the sleeves and selector shafts
the sleeves are withing spec the selectors are well low at 14lbs  spec is 27 for1st /2nd ,
so doing things the hard way fight the core plug out of the remote , spring is ok , so it needs a shim or what,
the core plugs are 3/8" and ddo not appear sold by any triumph outlet so ebay to the rescuse , ordered 3 for pennies but the simpler idea is just press the plug in futher till you achive the loading on the pull test, easy to block the plug to stop it returning ,  
this was a cost reduction the earlier boxes have a screwed plug to make adjustment easy
but its all going back together , with no wear tear nasties apart from new baulk rings and 3 hub springs
Pete

Examined the shaft the hole under magnification is past is best so new shaft is ordered
box is stripped just needs ball springs to improve the detent and new baulk rings
And i dont need to remove the 3rd gear circlip   wait the postman  and slot it back in
new clutch as fingers well worn,  
and I got a transmision adaptor for the trolley jack  it will be a good test to try that out
getting a bit old for lift with the knees.
pete

Hi, the crosshaft  hole goes right through the shaft there is a relief counter drilling in the back of the fork to accept any protrusion
so yes   .no
All good stuff thanks
might have a play today Im not going out in the snow
its just drop the cluster , pop the stem wheel out and get the main bearing off the shaft
the silliest Is the  circlip on 3rd  guess that will be chopped its a bit well hidden for any normal
removal but easier than some of the 18spd stuff ive been involved with developement
pete

If it needs to be  lap in , Im down to micrometer blue and some grinding paste

still to strip the box so parts order will be nearer the new year,   well santa has got in the way of normal speed
But its looking simple needs of decent baulk rings and a few  hub  ball springs
pete

http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchShaft/ClutchShaft.htm

The buckeye triumphs site gives a whole plethera of trials and tribulations into this tapered dowel failures
the shaft hole is definitley tapered, I will get  a new hd dowel from RB and check its fit before I jump to a new shaft but its not overly £££s

So replace to be sure is not the end of the world, I dont want to take the box off again
peter

Well the lever had the punch hole already drilled  took a lot of aligning to get to the backend of the dowel but , its out
the shaft is not that clever at  the break point
but will access with new uprated dowel and lap in with some grinding paste , see what sort of fit I can get ,  it may be a new shaft is on the cards to make  a reliable fix

pete

Im not normally stuck more into giving solutions,  senior moments prevail
will try both ideas if Hic  hic chritmas can wait
pete

just doing a refurb of my mk2 gearbox and following this thread checking  the taper dowel in the withdrawl has failed , unscrewed the base but the broken taper is seriuosly stuck in the shaft and wont allow me to withdraw the shaft .
so angle grind the shaft into two to extricate the blasted thing seems the only option, then on bench  theres access to see down the fork tapping to see whats left inside or not

any good ideas welcome

Pete

if the clutch disc was fitted the right way round ( the wrong way is likely to foul the flywheel bolts and give permanent drive)  then to get the fingers  or on a coil cover the release arms to contact the disc springs as shown,  there is too much slave travel,
so a thought is have you got the right sized master and slave diameters fitted ??
Pete

wont be the first time ive found the rebuild left the pump cam keyway out , so no pump action

Pete

ive found many operational problems are due to the solenoid internal shuttle is stuck
unscrew the solenoid with a , 1" af thin spanner dont turn it by the body,
remove and lookin the end there is a small 10mm circlip, pop this out and shake out the  shuttle /spool valve inside this must be a easy slide/ loose rattles when shaken . if its stiff it wont work .
a clean and maybe new 0 rings on the shuttle and the body .
if you have a battery( these dont need mega amps ) you can fire the solenoid and see if the inside bit actually moves  worth a quick look.

Pete

early motors with the dome cover  and sweeping switch can adjust the park by rotating the cover
later motors with a fixed  trip switch i believe are fixed.
best to leave the arms off if youve been meddling or you may wipe the bonnet

Pete

leave it all alone

Pete