Pete Lewis
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Posts posted by Pete Lewis
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if youre not impressed with used Canley list new at a good price 210578 @ around £24 thats each
and if you need the mk2 handbrake spreader bars the stag ones are exactly the same but have a + 1/2" on the cable lever makes a nice handbrake and cheaper than any 2000 ones about
Pete
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on advantage is it takes on engine temperature and doesn't get cooled so much by the fan airflow so in colder weather you wont make so much mayonnaise or hair cream in the cover
as you can with a tin one
pete
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i had a recurring flooding despite all attempts with new needle valves and even tried some grose valves that were more hopeless
on examination of the platform the needle sits against with a magnifier you could detect a ridge had worn on the face, far from obvious to the normal eye this is enough to jam the needle
new floats and problem has remained fully cured
tried to fettle the face but the plastic tends to shread it gets worse the more you try.
pete
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the top two studs have to be sealed and copper washers or you pump a leak.
if fact seal everyting. i like loctite 574 for all face joints brilliant stuff
pete
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i see Nicks having multiple post due to the wait where's it gone time out delay we seem to be getting
grose jets used to be good but having trie a few in SU came to the conclusion they are not what they use to be, none works well.
also if you have a stromberg with a twin float arm levers you can fit the float upside down
good place for pictorials and excellent write ups is http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm
never mind its TR based or even 175 the basics are all the same
Pete
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once youve broken the grip of the gaskets it should be a simple pull it off.
J type refit better tan Dtype but to realign the inards use two decent screwdrivers to lever the piton plates open this frees the cone and all just drops back on . do keep the drivers and fingers out the way when it drops
Jtype have a chamfer on the lead to the pump roller but position the cam at its lowest helps
Pete
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they must be turned on a mandrill some were gripped in a lathe chuck and this made the ring lobe shaped due to compression of the jaws
no idea how they are made in the world of the often crap aftermarket
Pete
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Rimmer bros , I bought some supposed uprated or better quality rings for the 2000 they dont show cost alternatives for the 3 rail box but the price is similar to the big saloon german rings have to say they are working well.
All our truck baulk rings were german made castings , its quite special stuff. If thats any clue
Pete
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to change the seals you need to remove the bearing
stories of 40 ton presses come to mind
they can be a less than easy bearing to remove from the shaft
extra shreaded wheat required
Pete
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Give it a good whack use a heavier hammer or decent lever to pop it out ,
There no fixings apart from the 4 , its likely just aged grot , its not a press fit
Pete
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just done this on a cv ex rotaflex
a few assemble and strip with a selection of ebay spacers and soon found the effect of a 0.003" shim would take you from pre load to some drum rock
took about 6 attempts , always knock the hub back after a trial fit to induce some end float
or it just stays where last pressed. do torque the hut each time , a nip will not give you a result
once happy , greased up and fitted oil seal torque nut we had a very small rock on the drum, i was pre load that killed the original fitting ,
do make sure any feeling of float is not from the CV spherical and spider any movement here can be misconstrued as end float if you grip the shaft in a vice and look for float
just grip the boot diameter or whatever
the advantage of CV is you need a spring lifter but youre not having to fight the tension of the doughnut, so refitting is relatively easier .
took a lot of trial and fiddle but not a bad job
a thin ended 3 legged puller is useful as you have the inner race left on when you strip the hub. chop the oil seal off aids a gap you may lever it of , or use a sandwich type of puller to get under the race inner ring.
Pete
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if the thrust face in the block has just worn away the lugs on the bearing caps that hold the thrust in place i have in the distant past welded and fettled replacement lugs on the bearing cap, needs a bit of care but reclaims a scrap block
if the block thrust face is is damaged then ignore this idea
ive come across many deceitful traders form wheel cylinders atatched with a tyrap to
charging for 29 ltrs of engine oil in a head gasket change at £1000
afraid the trade historically is very variable from very good to awful ...
pretty disappointing really
Pete
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dave you can simply hammer the flange to get an even gap all round the aperture
but if its crushing the seal/tight at the B post waist and the door sticks out at the bottom
then youre sure to have some tub spread its pretty common
Pete
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dave you can simply hammer the flange to get an even gap all round the aperture
but if its crushing the seal/tight at the B post waist and the door sticks out at the bottom
then youre sure to have some tub spread its pretty common
Pete
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https://www.overdrive-repairs.co.uk/
they are not hard to strip and examine
buckeye triumphs gives good details , not specific D type but exellant detail on many parts
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm
and https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/how_it_works_laycock_overdrive
and MPap both very good
just the cost of shipping
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Have you removed the spool valve under the cap plug on the top face this has a very small hole down its centre, if blocked the pressure is not released when you disengage the solenoid on removing the screwed plug cap catch the spring , ball and small plunger, the valve tube sits below all this , just pull it out there two reputable manufactures in the uk that doesnt help if your in Italy
Pete
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Good result keep taking the tablets
Getting under doesnt get any easier , I know that feeling
Pete
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http://www.distributordoctor.com/distributor_condensers.htm
this tells the story , and he does delco now
Pete
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948 is 63mm bore 1147 is 69.3mm so not really a fit it would give a 3.1mm recess around the fire ring zone .
looking at the poor pics on line theres some changes arounds the pushrod gallery
GEG344 seems pretty unavailable around most usual suppliers
I wonder what other 948'ers do ?
Pete
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strombergs on the 1600 had heavy damper weight ring and no springs
so mix and match here , check the ring that holds the diaphragm in place on the piston , this is the bit with
a variety of weights by differing thicknesses
think burlen spell out the specs in their listings
Pete
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you have to remove the compensator U to pass the cable through it, the threaded end is too thick, so you have to drop the clevis on the floor mounted lever and fiddle the cable into the horseshoe then re fit the thing .
good time to check the angle of the lever is correct ,
long thin fingers or drop the prop is inevitable ....or some strong tea
Pete
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with no clues or others to browse when i got mine a good few years ago
we shortend the battery tray, moved it to the n/s dropped the servo in the gap
more normal is to fit between heater and clutch master pointing to the O/s
Pete
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well lets try a reply on this new version forum
after a good dose of the winter bug the box is in with the supposed high german made quality baulk rings
the selector pull load would never climb above the 15 lb and is never going to achive the wsm figures so I will live with that result, new sleeve springs and detent springs , but the welch/core plugs you need to dig out are available on ebay but not from any triumph suppliers, 10mm and a light spread witha ball bearing to geta good tight fit ( only needd till the top cover goes on )
the result is shes very quiet, no fork /gear lever sizzle and synchro is as snappy as you like ,
but with correct end floats and new springs no bent forks etc she will still jump out of 1st on deceleration in 1st at 15 mph
I am going to live with that ...enough enough
i did buy a transmission plate to fit on the trolley jack but did not have the height to get the box on
anyne wants it for some beers + made with a tilt adjustment and very solid bit of kit
like this
cant load the link or picture sorry
Pete
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more tea then ,,,,,are you sure the jets and choke tube in the carb are correct to the manual ???
is the coil wire ok or not ?
make sure the brush in the cap is in contact with the rotor
avoid like the plague any rotor witha rivet in the sweep plate
Pete
Brake drum wear
in Running Gear
Posted
Sorry techy and 2000 all misplaced on this daft tablet and the layout here now does make some confusion.
Pete