ferny

I had the brakes completely fail once. I was coming up to a roundabout at the end of a dual carriageway. For some reason I decided to brake far earlier than normal and the pedal hit the floor. I had to use the handbrake which somehow worked for once. That was fun!

The cause? I never found out. Everything got stripped and checked to find no faults. The master cylinder was about a month old.

Does anyone know the history of these wheels? Turns out they got fitted to a lot of TR7's. Where they a dealer option? 

So, back in June I was driving down the A5 in the Herald when there was a big bang and the car decided to go dancing down the dual carriage way. It was probably quite a nice view for the car I'd just gone past... I'll attach a photo of the carnage but in word form the o/s UJ went kaboomy and the only things keeping the wheel on the car were the leaf spring bush and radius arm bolts. 

As the UJ joke was now slightly mangled (and the chassis torn from being beaten by a half haft shaped mace) I replaced the entire shaft and both UJ's - so both n/s and o/s. I used white box ones off eBay, but not cheap ones and they were listed as Heavy Duty Land Rover Freelander. I drove the car maybe 25 miles before it started to make a clicking noise and on investigation found a UJ cap on the o/s had departed, meaning the UJ was flapping about. So, I replaced that (again) with a brand new Hardy Spicer one I had floating around. 

Took the car to work and after about 50 meters... click click click. Can I find the cause for the click? Can I banana! I've had it up in the air, I've rotated wheels forwards, backwards and sideways. I've even rested the half shafts on rollers so the car is "resting" on its wheels. The diff seems fine and if it wasn't I assume it'd be in pieces now anyway.

My only thought right now is that the Freelander UJ on the n/s is knackered. If they're rubbish quality it would explain why the cap on the o/s UJ went walkies for no apparent reason. Honestly a weird one that! I'm going to replace it and see what happens. 

Please help save my sanity? I've not driven the car really since June because of this!

You're right next to the battery too, so it's an ideal time to cut into curcuits and add any relays you may want.

When you add fuses, think about sensible circuit splitting as it can help fault find. As an example - my wipers stopped working once, but because they were on the same fuse as my radio constant but not my heater or headlights I was able to diagnose the fault whilst driving. No wipers or radio but still have lights and a heater? Ahha, it's just that circuit so let me check the fuse first. Etc.

With enough time, effort and cardboard you could probably fasion something vaguely reasonable enough to pass your car off as a horse? No-one will care then.

On 08/08/2022 at 10:29, Gt6s said:

Nothing wrong with splined yoke shown Just a little beat up JUST USE THE SUCKER. Changing these is a propper SOB !

It's not round any more.

Also, after driving it for a few days since replacing the assembly the diff has gone. I suspect it failed and caused the uj to expire and I've just been lucky it took a day or two to show up again. And thankfully near enough to home to get it to bang loudly on the way back.

Had similar for years and had changed everything before I found the problem when fitting the MX5 engine. 

The suspension turrets were loose. It never entered my head to check them.

Which hose? Have you cleaned its seating area before refitting? Is It deffo coming from the hose join or traveling to it from another sealing face?

If you're doing any of the endurance events, taking it on track or do long journeys then fitting it won't harm anything.

The sensible thing to do first though, is fit a sensor and monitor current temperatures. 

With a (rather large) cooler fitted and a gauge which won't read below 40°C;

Winter takes about 4 miles before it starts to read above 40°C.

Winter motorways sees it sit around 80°C or just below.

Summer, within 4 miles it's at 60-70°C.

Summer motorways see high 90's°C and you see noticeable changes when you hit shade or ambient temperatures drops.

Ta for the replies. Think mine will be short as they're standard herald ones. 

I can source one locally but seeing as I can get one posted to me for £35 I went the lazy option. I'll have to swap studs over, may as well do the slave and trunnion too. 

I have the time seeing as I've got to fix the chassis where the driveshaft beat and tore it...

See video and picture for the reason why.

I know you can get the flanged one, but what about the splined end? I've picked up a second hand assembly of unknown condition so now in curious fiddling mode.

On 27/06/2022 at 13:11, RobPearce said:

It doesn't matter much which connection is which as the actual cooler isn't really directional (the flow is normally across rather than down). However, I couldn't open your photos as you've posted them in a non-standard file format (I suspect an Apple proprietary one). Please export as JPG in the interests of cross-platform usefulness.

Does this help?

Depends which Garmin you have. 

I use Basemap (I think) which is their own software avaliable on their website. But my Garmin is 10+ years old.

8 hours ago, harveyzone said:

I must admit, when I did the check I was trying to work out which carb to look at in more detail, where along the the line the fault might be, and was suspecting 1 or 2 to be out and was mildly surprised (annoyed) when it was 3. This would suggest 2 or 3 separate blockages, not just one.

But similarly, what electrical issue would knock out 3 cylinders and not just 1 or all 4?

Worn distributor, wobbly rotor arm, crap leads, coil breaking down, points worn or not set correctly, old spark plugs.

Of course, if only one cylinder is working after already establishing the fuel system is mostly fine then another fault could be the valves are worn or the head gasket is gone.

I'd check the ignition components first...

If you still really want to fiddle with the carbs you could try some Easy Start first too. That'd also test the ignition circuit and prove it's a fuelling issue.

Perhaps to give you more confidence, recently the Acclaim started mmisfiring on a return journey. It was fine on the way to the shops but returning home 20 minutes later it kept stalling and would only run on choke. I spent a day chasing the fault and checked everything I could - plugs, lead resistances, valve gaps, fuel pump and much more. The carbs haven't been touched in 40 years and the car was absolutely fine before so I had no intention of upsetting them if I didn't need to. 

I ended up stripping down the distributor and found a tiny crack in the magnetic ring thingy which then fell apart in my hands. I had to buy a modern replacement and it's taken weeks to get the timing right because it's a slightly different copy of the original part.

The point I'm making is that carbs don't just fail if they're working fine. Ignition components however do and can be a bugger to trace if you're not methodical and thorough. 

Something loose...

Could be;

Body tub

Suspension bushes

Pads moving in the calipers

Stuff like suspension should have been picked up on MOT, if it still gets taken in for one. Anything else will probably take two people - one rocking and on listening. 

16 hours ago, Velocita Rosso said:

Nearly thought about a two man tent!

Our Hotels...starting at Sedan:

£42.00/room /night

£61.00/room/night

£126.00/room/night

£60.00/room/night

£59.00/room/night

Offered to wash up and make breakfast to get a discount!

 

That's a lot of hotels! Has the 10CR gone soft?

FYI - I've book one night (solo) in Marrakech in August for £80.

Four nights starting this Sunday (for two) in Glossop is only £200.

Evening camping has shot up. Expect to pay £45 a night for a pitch in Wales at the moment. 

On 23/05/2022 at 21:34, Nick Jones said:

Hooligan 😛

Seems quite lively.... presumably not a Triumph diff any more?

 

Nick

Still the 3.63 from a couple of RBRR's ago which Rob donated to me. The wheelspin probably saves it. I've not got my head around the Subaru conversion yet.

On 23/05/2022 at 22:10, Tim Bancroft said:

Pete, suggest you bolt the seats down?

Acceleration and girth... I promise they're bolted down!

We tried to break the car at Goodwood but failed. Oh well, Mallory Park in September will probably finish it off!

https://youtu.be/639CgYB0aIA

https://youtu.be/639CgYB0aIA

https://youtu.be/B6XFy82CwE8

https://youtu.be/2ygcWruHBBo

Fiesta (of some mk) have a thermostat housing with a sensor which fits. Look on eBay for suitable. 

16 hours ago, Clive said:

As a "middle ground" you can give the tank a good clean out. I washed mine out, then some brick acid to do most of the de-rusting, finally phosphoric acid to convert any rust. All seems well. And no risk of any flaking.

I am tempted by an ali tank, as the intank pump I am using is proving difficult to seal, the viton ring seal I cut from a sheet is quite unforgiving. May b=need to investigate alternative seals though before forking out £500.

For a long period my only gasket on my sender was a bit of paler with plenty of Slic Tite on either side. It probably still is but I can't remember any more.

Very much doesn't look correctly advertised. It's not for a Vitesse. 

Had to braze a hole in my tank in 2020. Used the POR 15 stuff frosts sell to coat the inside at the same time. I've not noticed any issues yet.

I was going to get some LED units a few years ago - the tuoe Beans has.

The cost was the main stopping point along with fear of damage. If one needs replacing you have to buy an expensive pair.

Only medical study I've read which I can comfortably agree with states that people who stopped consuming all fluids before 2019 have found it impossible to be infected with Covid and most other illnesses. 

And the only side effect noticed was the possibility of fatality dying. But that could only happen once. 

I'm genuinely shocked and absolutely saddened to hear this.

My thoughts are with everyone who was fortunate enough to know him.