marktheherald

Mine were the standard 11/16" nuts, ground down to suit. I had no issues tightening or untightening with an open ended spanner, but after all the years I used (and repaired) the car the nuts were starting to round off a bit.  I think the MWS nuts might not give enough flat to put the spanner on if they are bigger?

I ran my Midge with 15" wires and in the best part of 15 - 20 years hard use never had any of those nuts come loose.  I only ever tightened them up with an open ended spanner and never dot-punched or thread-locked them.... I did however lose a centre knock-on which had an unseen (by me) hairline crack. I managed to pull over before the wheel fell off. I found the damaged knock-on about 1/2 mile back.     My spare was held on with the wrong handed knock-on and I found myself stuck by the side of the road with no AA or RAC coverage and I didn't have a mobile back then.......

Moral of story, check your Knock-ons regularly, carry a mobile and make sure you have roadside recovery cover.....

I used a good quality open ended spanner and the trusty copper mallet....Never used thread lock.   I often thought about modifying a ring spanner somehow.

This photo hopefully shows what is required...

I found that the standard studs and nuts prevent the wheel sitting correctly on the spline taper... I took all mine down with an angle grinder.....   SO, shorter studs and nuts required.

Siverline?.................. ??)        

Makes me glad that I've got a tub full of old brake parts, including half a dozen adjusters.. ;D

If the locks have barrels, I suspect you will have to drill them out..... :-/

I bought a second hand front valence for my 13/60 and discovered it was a 1200 item... I cut away the centre section from my old steel valence (the lip part that fits between the overriders) and did the same to the fibreglass item. Then transplanted the steel to the fibreglass and riveted and bonded it in place.

Not that I'm aware of. Should really have been Tomahawk Bridge though!

http://www.sabre-roads.org.uk/wiki/index.php?title=Spitfire_Bridge

Under the Spitfire bridge?

As added to this question before, Saab 900 seats. Bit of work to fit, but comfortable, built in head restraint and back tilts forward. Fabric or leather and heated.

;D

Saab seats in mine...bit of a faff fitting but v. comfortable and all important head restraint..

When I had my Midge, I had this to do many times over the years. I used a long bar to wedge the adaptor against the ground and could only use an open ended spanner as the nuts were too close to the splined hub to use a socket....I kept a supply of nuts, as the spanner invariably rounded them off after a few times.

I've been driving my '94 Isuzu Trooper with a brake vacuum warning light showing for two years..... :B
  Brakes have worked fine in all that time..have now disconnected bulb...

I must have been lucky, handling was never a problem in the 25 years that I owned it. I even ground off one coil from the front springs shortly after putting it on the road, as it kept 'topping' out! It never occurred to me then to find shorter springs!

When I built my Midge in the mid 80's, I followed JC's build advice and removed several leaves from the 1200 donor spring. By pure luck (or judgement!) I got it right first time and that gave me the ideal wheel stance and handling was never an issue, even with 15" wires.

Open carbs are an invitation for unwanted bits. I found a 2p coin in one of my Mays conversion bell mouths....
I never did get round to making a 'carb hump'...

There's something sexy about a multiple Weber set up...On ebay at the moment..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1963-4-Maserati-3500gtis-barn-find-restoration-project-classic-rolling-shell-/231084963369?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item35cdbcb629

Amazing work, it never ceases to amaze me how many small scale engines are out there.

I would go with a 3.89. My estate runs out of puff a bit on a long uphill drag. (1500 with 3-rail D-type o/d and 3.63 diff)

Yes, seen it before, but full marks to someone with the dedication to put this together....I don't seem able to take even ONE photo during a project..!

Broken spring in the master cylinder?

Couldn't be much further away without going abroad..! :-/