JensH

The WM states, you should grease after you have assembled inner ball joint.
So my answer would be: dry assembly.
Then 56g grease in both ends ;-)
Just replaced one inner ball joint, spring and a couple of shims in my mk 3 rebuild, as one side was damaged by DPO's experiment with home made shims....
Grease can take out some minor play in the joints btw.

ordinary brown grease - lots of... Keeps the water out ... eh... sort of.  8)

minor differences, but you should be able to use a mk 4/1500 door for a gt6mk3

Count the strands - and use next 'oversize' wire :-)

Replace UJ - might be cost effective with a new propshaft as you will have to have it balanced.
I have seen a gearbox ripped apart due to a worn out (broke) UJ.

Loud bang

Don't forget that new door seals are wider than the original ones. I had some similar issues when I replaced mine with some new ones from ... Rimmer? ...10? years ago?

Time flies...  :o

The starter solenoid is a high current relay; nothing else.
Earth on starter solenoid is only for activating the relay - and if you take one apart you will see its has an earth via the housing.
On my mk 3 spitfire; its has the earth via a black wire connected to the fixing bolt (eye-connector), but my guess is often most of the relative small current is going via body tub.
As you can guess, dirt, rust etc. is an issue.

On the earlier ones (two types, square and cylinder form) with a push button, the relay is activated mechanical and has nothing to do with your ignition switch/earthing. But pressing the button could cure a dodgy connection...

You need to find out why before you bodge it  8)

Rearwings: Heritage panels or repro?

Original lamp panel?

http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/parts.aspx?categoryID=15&vehicleId=5
same source I suppose...

Nah
Buy a TR3  8)

Good progress, admire your welding skills  :)

Nice! Well done  :)

I did that once with some non moulded carpets (from my old mk 3 spitfire).

If you want a sudden death, the answer is: Go ahead  :B

I wasn't married then so survived. But carpets were useless after.

All brake parts and hydraulics.
Trunnions?
Suspension bushes (go poly)
Ball joints?
Steering?
All rubber parts in suspension.... etc

PS! Wish I had a father like yours :-)

Difficult to measure, as bolts are going in at an angle of ~ 30 deg.
Got 38 and 54 cm. bolt hole centre to bolt hole centre.

You can do some adjustments on the bracket with captive nuts, underside of the chassis.

I will be at my workshop tonight, will take a measure then.

Oh, did find this old picture/drawing (note: The measure is NOT 77,5 cm as on picture, but 76,5 cm. But the box section on the rhs was about half an inch further forward than the lhs (factory!) - so....
Not sure about the 57,4 cm either. But 120 cm /47 1/4" from sill top is correct :-)

Sorry for the size of the picture, but didn't want to resize.

And don't ask me to explain all the strange drawings.

* edit: 80,1 cm is from inner sill (i.e. not top of), to extra hole in box section - NOT centre of bolt hole. Don't if these holes are the same, if you have used new repro box sections?

Hmm - forgot the gearbox cover - couldn't do an accurate measure. Will have to wait until thursday.

Measure from rear (heel board panel) to bolt hole centre of box section is 76,5 cm. if any help.

Don't forget that the captive nuts on the frame is on a bracket that are widely adjustable - might call for some brutal violence :-)

On the body tub? No problem. If on the frame, I will have to wait until after Thursday, as I only have 'non dismantled' cars at home :-)

I will try to take some measures on my 'collection' of lost chassis' and ditto body tubs this week  8)
Won't be before Thursday though.

One of the main reasons to keep the tub on the chassis while replacing floors ;-)
I know, will keep my mouth s....

Believe the measures are in the workshop manual?

Front cross members? Just next to the seats? They are widely adjustable (captive nuts...) - have you welded in new floor panels without checking with the chassis?

Front outriggers: There should be an alu spacer at the engine side only.

Give it a "ding" - and get started! 😎

... and don't forget alu spacers at the engine side of front outriggers?