JensH

wait till after paint!
And use weld through primer on all new and old body panels.

Same as spitfire ones?
If so, I have only had one repro LHS in my hands (a few years ago), but had the chance to compare with a NOS RHS; didn't look too bad. But you could spot the differences; the original (stanpart sticker) one had a more lose curve at the lower edge. Didn't have the two "ears" that help fixing them and missing the small "dot" next to the recess (gt6 reinforcement location?)

Anyway - had the feeling, they would fit without to much trouble, but as stated, I haven't had the opportunity to do so my self.

EDIT: Just had a look at Rimmers page - they seems to have improved - it has the 'ears' on now!

Peugeot 205GT?
Some VW Golf??
Civic??

Try to do a search on the forum.

Of course - it's a Triumph  8)

(good work, enjoy!)

Dry???
Bummer!
You forgot to put oil in  8)

I have heard some old rumours (?) that they (i.e. Triumph!) compensated minor differences in the chassis with a heavy tool used at the diff's front mounting plate  8)

Can't remember - but on the mk 3, the rear trim board is fixed with some small clips at the top and 2x2 screws just where you want yours?

If you have access to a concrete mixer, tie it up with a little sand in (you can use an old bike inner tire)  8)

They are listed in the parts manual but not on the drawings
http://www.spit6.co.uk/7.html - see no. 26 body & fittings, page 120 (61 in pdf)

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-610520
2 each side. Didn't fit them on mine though and trim boards still there :-)

Front outrigger bolt - can be handy when needed roadside  8)

The bush has a waist shape allowing oil to pass. The hole is there for oiling the oil pump axle me thinks.

I believe it was GT, that once told me to put the bush that way; really don't think it has any difference though.

But is it the same size used on both a 1200 and on the GT6?

From my parts-manual covering up to 1970-spit mk 3, I have:

Fitted from comm.no: FD/FDU29587 approx.

713036 Retainer, centre, header rail sealing strip
713038 Retainer, outer, header rail sealing strip - R.H
713037 Retainer, outer, header rail sealing strip - L.H

Lower commission numbers seems to have been without retainer as only rubber is listed? Or might have been different due to the earlier type of hood leavers?

I bought a 713038 (or might have been a LH-one!) from Paddock a few years ago

Rimmer use the same partno for mk 3 and mk 4/1500. I believe they are identical.

Didn't find them on mine more or less original mk 3. Might be for the mk4/1500? (same picture on rimmers side)

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/ImagePopUp.aspx?i=GRID005963

3 small holes each side - see left side of Rimmer-picture. Use cup-washers for good finish.

As I took the picture above, I had not fasten mine.

Could only find this one - you need to start with the vinyl around the B-post (remember to wrap it around the corner, so the door seal will cover it).

Tap it from below (i.e. upwards!) They sometimes brake though  :B
When you remount, make sure the "=-mark" is going 90 deg. i.e. the hole for the oil gallery is next to the oil pressure switch.

See http://thetriumphanimal.blogspot.dk/2009/08/engine-ii.html

The plug at the oil gallery - you brake one off and rest is for the floor  8)

Didn't know they were made of alloy though??

Ideally you should have the complete crank, flywheel and clutch balanced. On my last rebuild (FD-engine) I was surprised how much the engine shop had to take off the flywheel to get it right. Don't know if you are changing only the flywheel though.

IMHO much easier to take out the complete steering column - but I have only worked on the earlier type.

Would recommend you use the uprated (nylon?) bush, as I have seen the new original ones fallen apart within a very short period.
Don't know the quality of the ones Rimmer can supply - but they listen an 'uprated' one as http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-209423UR

K&N much better. Anyway if on low budget, pancake easy to improve - if you have some filter foam on the shelves.

put some old spark plugs in and paint. Would recommend to use paint, that doesn't react immediately with fuel though.

Not that often, when wife allows me to come out   :P

Just give me a call; can be arranged most days.

Hej Daniel, du er velkommen til at se forbi og se på min 2000'er, tvivler på det kan være så forskelligt (tror det er late mk 2 det hele)    :P

(Just offered him to come by and have a look at my Estate)   8)

Basic:
Relays for main/dipped beam...
One for the ignition switch too.
Fuses: Two brown wires (originally connected to same spade connector at the control box used for dynamo) - going to ignition switcy and to light switch. They are without fuses pr. original (free from memory :-)