JensH

Thats a tricky part to replace, easy to replicate (cut out in some thin steel) but IMHO difficult to put back due to the risk of making a short: The two rivets need to be isolated not only with the pad you can see, but also when its passing the round lid, making the connection to the self stopping switch/plate behind.

If not sufficient with grease in the gaiters, you risk water in there, what you don't want.
I always go for as much as possible (when in compressed position).

Original gaiters will probably outlast new ones  :B

http://thetriumphanimal.blogspot.dk/2007/10/repair-on-left-side-lower-b-post-and.html

Lower one!
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005669

Lower one!
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005669

And do check copper washer on top of the rear crankshaft oil seal housing :-)
(same goes with the bell housing/gearbox)

And do check copper washer on top of the rear crankshaft oil seal housing :-)
(same goes with the bell housing/gearbox)

Hi Chris,
Sorry - no, not much for car shows but the trip could be great so will go - might even be this summer  8)
Will PM you if so, could be fun to meet up.

Cheers,
Jens.

Chris, try to find a copy of John Thomason's Triumph Spitfire & GT6 - a guide to originality.

Yours a mk 4?

Chassis and body tub was painted body colour without any suspension parts. These - and all brackets was mounted after and was painted black in some semi gloss.... something!

There are a few pictures here too, don't know how original these cars are now:
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/photos.html
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/enginephotos.html

Cheers,
Jens,
Copenhagen, Denmark.

Hope you have a chance to get it DIRTY very soon  

Bearing/racers as far in as possible; you can see the lip just down under the outer bearing surface - thats as far as they can go

They show up on flebay from time to time. Just not when you need some  :o

have you tried phone Spitfire Graveyard, jigsaw or/and Quiller Triumph?
They should be able to sort you out, if you want to stay with the original mk 3 seats.

Bought county pistons for my FD engine rebuild (+20) two years ago. Less than 1/2 gram between pistons - but as mr. Sparky above wrote: not as nice finish (sharp edges etc) as the Mahle standard size pistons, they were going to replace (block needed a rebore).

Free from memory, county ones were aprox 20g lighter than the Mahle ones.

Rings supplied with the pistons didn't come with info of brand; they were this black material (like cast!) - and was within spec.

Engine has aprox 15K (km - I am located in Copenhagen!) on the odometer, and has been well used... No problem so far.

but you need to cut a small part off the inner wheel arch if I am right...

merry christmas everyone,

cheers
Jens

Imagine what you have to pay for a new front wing on your modern....

I am still on for a RHS rear wing repair for my mk 1 estate, otherwise I would have to make one my self  ??)

Thumps up from here (Copemhagen)  8)

Chris witor has Salvaged and nos rear valances - see his homepage:
http://www.chriswitor.com/products.php?cat=245&pg=7

There has been a thread about this a few weeks ago.

IMHO no good. You will have to sort out the rot anyway; problem is rot between reinforcement panel sandwiched between shock mounting panel and inner wheel arch.

Ask your supplier,

Rimmer has the reinforcement panel (thought they were NLA)
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-821154
Depending on how damaged it is, you might need this one (L & R) too: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-714656

Start with a good clean; i.e. remove all old under seal etc.
Will need replacement IMHO.

out of shape, but check seal at the bulk head panel if fitted.

I'll make sure it will be announced in the Danish Triumph Club Magazine - and will try to take contact to ditto Swedish & Norwegian if no one else here on the forum has a contact there...

Anyone for the rest of the world?

I have posted links to this (and other threads re your panel work :-) ) on the Danish mail list and on the Swedish club triumph forum.

Cheers,
Jens (Copenhagen).

I always go for lifting the body; as IMHO its the only way you can get full access to the frame and stop evt. rot at the outriggers, rear diff area etc.

Leave wiring in, just disconnect from engine and front light, steering etc.

It's not the Track Rod End??
Did the vertical link survive?

Take off engine. Not that difficult, try to find a cheap hoist.
Then - clean off all rust and paint it.
You can do all suspension part too.