JensH

Its not the surface rust that will give you problems now, its the rust between the panels, where they join.
If you are not going for a frame off-resto, I would take off the complete rear suspension/diff and then get the car up on some better and safer ramps, than the small ones you are using now (bricks, wood etc - bring your friends, and lift it, its not that heavy, when the rear suspension has been removed.

Then its just days (*edit*: Weeks...) of joy ahead with a grinder/what ever. And cleaning. And sealing. And painting ...
You won't be able to do the frame on the top, but use some good wax oil or equal when dry.

And. Don't forget to drill extra drain holes at the lower part of the main chassis rails and the box section behind the diff.

Don't believe its a problem with the gt6 link as different to the spitfire ones, but ask at canley.

Wow! Don't trust that  ??)
That's should have been replaced years ago.

You can be lucky, if rear valance is not shot - then its easy to fabricate the correct curve - as I guess you already know. Have seen pattern boot floor panels with a very small vertical part (even as a straight line in some). Don't know how good the new heritage panels are though, have changed several rear valances on the early cars, but only once a complete boot floor.

Is it the vertical part of the boot floor?
No repair available - only part of the boot floor available as a repair is this:
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-815279RH

(and they never rot there?)

Its normal maintenance, and you now have a nice workshop  8)
Don't know with quality of new trunnion bushes - I have used lots of old ones, and just changed the thin metal shield/rubber rings.

Don't know with the poly bush idea, but might give the vertical link too much flex?

Second one: Dismantle vertical link and hub - collapsed trunnion bush.
Easy job. If bolt is NOT sized :-)

As on mk IV me thinks... Like this:

You should get a copy of the workshop manual or/and spare part catalog
see http://www.vitessesteve.co.uk/Servicemanuals.htm

You will have to remove the 3 bolts at the lower edge/dash top. Then the frame is secured by two brackets in the a-post; unscrew a nut on the inside (you might have to take out parcel trays to access). Then - gently - slide the complete frame up backwards.

Bent vertical link?

Ok, thanks anyway!

Much cheaper to 'add lightness' on the stomach  ;D

Dazzer,
I am on for building a test stand for a 4 cyl, would it be possible for you to post some pictures - it could give me some good ideas for my own  :)

Same here (3 x spitfire mk 3)

They were different - due to US-legislation

http://www.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1407504114/s-2/#num2

Phone Canley/Dave.

IMHO - two things come in mind:
1. If sills have been replaced, new ones are often fitted far to high; esp. if the floor pan (or just outer flange) has been replaced (flange on new floor pans too small).
See drawings.
2. Doors tend to bend with age making the lower rear corner sticking out.

Hmm - your chassis must be seriously twisted then  :P

You are not the first one with this - Just use 'brute force'  8)

If I remember right, Dave from Canley Classics long ago wrote that no one ever did make repro wings (front/rear) for the early spit/gt6.

I believe, there was no such ting as pattern early front wings.

Looking good (and btw - I like the colour)  8)

With an early spitfire (and 'ditto' gt6) outer front/rear wings are OE and new rear valance a very good copy (not like the old ones, so worth the money IMHO).
You can only buy repo panels for floors and inner/middle sills.
Outer sills available as repro and OE, avoid repro at all costs!

Rear inner arches are copy's - outer part not very good. Front ones: For inner, only mk4/1500 available, but will fit. Outer (up to wings) are hand made reproductions.

Usual suspects, try james paddock, canley etc.

Pouring boiling water on sometimes helps.