JensH

Hazen: Take care of the 'plint' behind the number plate lamp; its a very rare unit and only used in a few countries - and US states. They were part of the approval for MOT here in Denmark, but long forgotten by the MOT-man 😎

Most lost due to rotted out number plate lamps, or crashes!

Your picture doesn't show a seal, and its NLA now - but I have used one of the seals for the front bumper/overrider on my spitfire.

Chers, Jens (Copenhagen)

Mr. Canley will be much better than me in this, but my vote is inner sills are Hadrian ones, outer could be OE (heritage), NOS or Steel Craft - but they are not horrible cover sills.

any labels on them?

Pictures....!

Someone misunderstood the sentence 'tractor engine' ... 😎  

Spies Hecker 2 pack for me, thanks 😎

Good work. Suppose repair panels are no longer available?

Sorry, didn't mention that - they are not, so they can be used for the entire range... Not that difficult; if you are in doubt with measure, I have them on a drawing somewhere.
A 32mm (?) hole saw for iron did the job for me last time...

No pattern ones for the early spitfire/GT6 available and has never been (If I did get Mr. Canley's word right  8) )
But NOS ones does differ: Tooling must be very tired by now...

Different ways of doing it: Very easy is to ad an extra fused feed all way out to headlights, and use the original wires to trick the relays.
Better - IMHO - is to mount relays on firewall - or inside - and extend the original wires from under the steering  column - that way you will not have to cut the original wiring either.

Have changed a few of these on early spitfires and on a gt6+ (us import, after a rear hit!).
Avoid the early 90ish panels - but haven't seen them in a while: New Heritage panels include the small bracket behind the lock on the spitfire; you will have to remove this and ideally cut the flange for the spitfire boot seal as per original. But the new panel fit like a glove IMHO, and is a very good copy of the original - even had the original shape where it is welded to the rear part of the 'drain channel panel' part no 903099 (side of boot).
A few pictures here: http://triumph-junkie.blogspot.dk/2011/02/gt6-rear-valance.html or take a look at André Rousseau's rebuild page: gt6.ca.

To answer your question: Go for a heritage panel at the usual suspects, Canley or Paddock etc. and send it back if it doesn't look original :-)
Boot floor: Last one I replaced, had a steel craft sticker on; did the job and was a good copy.

11 to 1 :-)

Brake cleaner?
What kind?
(Sorry, very unstable internet here right now!)

I have always been told, never use anything else than brake fluid to clean brake parts that will hold brake fluid later.....

Okay, should rule out some of my concerns above.
Are you using anything else than brake fluid for cleaning the MC when you have changed seals?

I keep wondering why seals on your MC don't last longer.
Something not right me thinks.

Did a PO try to clean pipes with some alcohol based fluid? That's a no go, but seen before.

I would renew all pipes, hoses and all seals. And then go for another brand of brake fluid?

How much of your braking system did you replace when you did your resto?
Could there be some dirt, petrol, white spirit, alcohol in old brake lines?

What brand of brake fluid do you use?

@Baz: I suppose, its the very thin connectors used at the gear knob switch - there was a thread some months ago with a link - but can't find it now.
I ended up soldering it to the switch + using some shrink tubing.

If original mk 3: Its part of the spring only, but (from memory) there is a recess in the diff (for the nut on the underside!), so you have to lift the spring a little before you can push it out.

Not my installation, and don't know how it works in practice, as it was done before I got the car - and it has not been on the road since.

I did have a Lucas cap on my delco (spit mk 3) unit before I converted to MegaJolt. Was quite a surprise - but didn't look like it had been modified. No issues - but can't remember the part no. though. Will go and look tonight, but might have binned it...

I have always found them there - and depending on the quality of the rubber, there should be no problem in getting the connecting rod in. But new ones don't last long.

Nice to know, my German 'friend' mr. alzheimer has not taken completely over yet  8)

According to mr. Dave (sorry, if memory does not serve me correct!) - there is no such thing as pattern front wings for the early spit/gt6, and I doubt more than one are pressing louvres (canley?).
Different with the later cars though.

AFAIK - Fitchet is the owner of the OE tool.

New floor panes does not go all way under a-post, you will need (or make) something like these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HERALD-VITESSE-F-BULKHEAD-BODY-MOUNTING-A-POST-ASSEM-/371166198802?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item566b3abc12

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HERALD-VITESSE-FRONT-FLOORPAN-NEW-DEEP-PRESSING-RIGHT-HAND-SIDE-806269-PRESSED-/351017078140?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item51ba3f8d7c

(Chic Doig)

I would avoid new rubber bushes due to quality; reuse old ones if they are not to bad, or buy poly/superflex.
Rear brakes: Shoes, springs, U-clamps for the slave cylinder + dust cap? hold-down-kit and all hand brake parts?
Flat nuts and chock washers for brake hoses? Old ones not good for reuse.
Studs for the spacer block?
If you are taking diff out, you will need 3x jpr303... but make sure they are the correct size (don't know year of your car).

Originally its just a fat piece of cardboard.