DGGT6

Hi Rob, I can hear where the knock is, I think I just need to connect the the (correct?) bits together correctly and see if I get a reading when I hear the knock. Cheers, Doug

Thanks guys. My basic premise/reason for Megasquirting my car was so that I could log what was happening then adjust accordingly rather than guessing by ear or sanding carby needles or changing dizzy springs and millions of trials. Something that I have discovered thanks to the MS is that the water temperature coming out of the radiator at 90kph gets down to about 70C! I currently have a 90C thermostat installed so there is a 20C difference. The same differential should apply to a 83c stat. I was hoping that a knock sensor would show me "exactly" where to adjust the timing. I don't intend to rely on it to "save my engine" just tell me where she is knocking. I can here it easily at the moment but I don't have a passenger seat for someone to sit in and adjust while I am driving. As mentioned there is a huge amount of contradictory  info on line. For instance with the American cars sharing the same sensor and module despite the bore size varying immensely! I thought the best thing was to give it a shot and find out for myself. So far I have an engine that knocks very well, a sensor that generates AC voltage, Tunerstudio displaying a simulated knock/grounding, a new  sensor module that doesn't seem to transmogrify the sensor signal to the MS signal. I was hoping that as usual it was I that have made the mistake in wiring etc rather than the components not actually working. Cheers, Doug

Greetings Gents, Has anyone had any success in making a bosch 2 wire knock sensor work with a GM knock module and a MS2? I get a small AC voltage when I tap the knock sensor and I get a signal from Tunerstudio when the MS wire is  from the module is grounded. So it appears that the sensor functions, the (brand new) module functions and my MS2 is correctly setup to detect a simulated (grounded) knock signal. It just doesn't register in Tunerstudio when I hit the sensor with a hammer (or drive the car). Any thoughts,  please? Thanks, Doug

Terrific! Many thanks Alec.

Hi guys, I need to have my crankshaft machined where the rear thrust bearing has slightly scored the flange. The machinist wants to know the current end float to figure out how much metal to put on. I thought it would be better if I could give him the original width of the rear main crank journal. Would anyone happen to have the dimension specifications of the 2500 cross drilled crankshaft please? Many thanks, Doug

I too have had cracking with R6 fuel hose. I usually run E10 unleaded. Found this link (and others) for specs of fuel hoses and I am going to change/stick to R9 for the high and low pressure lines. (Megasquirt PI) http://www.volksbolts.com/faq/fuelhose.htm Keep an eye on your R6 lines to be on the safe side. Cheers, Doug

Hi Rob, I though you "had it", but on further consideration, perhaps not. Why would a thermostat housing be designed to let in cold water direct from the radiator? That would defeat the purpose of measuring the water temperature coming out of the engine. Also, if my early "blip" was the tstat opening at 82 but the sensor under the tstat measuring the sudden inflow of cold radiator water "directly" onto the sensor, I would not get the same blip when the sensor is in the heater hose being fed directly from the head. I have attached a photo showing where I have installed the sensor on my 2500 engine, not GT6, if there is a difference in the thermostat housings. My experimentation and documentation of the cooling system is to get a baseline so I can measure any difference when I add a bypass and move the thermostat to the bottom radiator hose like modern cars. I have been surprised with the results I have found  and am now second guessing my megasquirt and engine. So I am very interested in hearing from other people and experiences, and I appreciate your and others input. Many thanks, Doug

Hi GT6 M, this is exactly my point. Now we have the technology, we can see what is actually happening. "Everyone" says/thinks that their temperature is "rock solid" because the gauge doesn't move. Well it certainly appears that my temperature is a swinging as the sixties! We can assume that our engines can withstand this but I would like to experiment and see if I can get it a bit more mundane and steady. At least I will be able to measure any changes accurately. Cheers, Doug

Hello Rob, how does a 82C thermostat, fully opened at 86C keep the temperature in the 90s? Surely once the tstat is fully open, temperature control is lost and in the hands of the ambient surroundings? ie no control Aren't we trying to control/maintain a specific engine temperature despite ambient weather and engine load? I am more perplexed that a 82C tstat will allow the temp to drop to the low 70s. Cheers, Doug

Thanks for the feed back guys. My intention is to get a base line before I start modifying the cooling system with a bypass and thermostat in the bottom radiator hose. I think the sensor and the tstat bulb are within an inch of each other so I can not see any scope for a lag in time. I have based my programmed cooling window on that the 82 stat opens at 82 and is fully open at 86, therefore I assume the design is to keep the engine temp in this range What I am surprised/ concerned with is the difference in temperature from low 70s to high 80s despite using a 82C tstat. I was hoping/expecting to see a difference in temperature from the back of the head to the front given the ancient design, ancient manufacturing techniques and decades of rust build up, giving me good reason to pursue the bypass system but what I am seeing is a massive temperature variation across the WHOLE engine from fast driving to idling. Perhaps this in itself is a very good reason for further experimentation. So, what consistent/constant running temperature should I be aiming for? 75, 84, 90C?????? Cheers, Doug

Here is the second graph with temperatures from the "standard" position under the thermostat. Cheers, Doug

Rule No. 7,864 of megasquirting your GT6...... Do NOT install an EFI coolant sensor in a sedan thermostat cover and shut the bonnet! Moving on..... With only having ONE coolant sensor (now) I graphed the water temp twice from "cold' to hot at idle speed. Once with the sensor located under the tstat and once with the sensor teed into the heater hose leaving the back of the head. Note: I have triple checked that my sensor is calibrated and accurate against a thermometer! (tsat in the same container at the same time as the sensor and thermometer) So why do I get a "blip" in the temp around 76/70C as if the tstat is opening???????? The peaks and troughs between 80 and 86c are from the fan coming on. I have programmed the fan to come on at 84 and off at 82. I am guessing that the cold radiator water reaches the back of the head quicker and that is why the temp only max's out to 85 instead of 86 with the sensor up the front. I triggered the fan so it would run continuously to simulate fast coasting. Interestingly the temp dropped way past where I expected and bottomed out at 72C at the back of the head and 76C at the front. I had always "assumed" that the temp would not go below the tsat specification (82). Interestingly, these low figures are close to the figures of where I get that early blip in temperature. Maybe I will have to calibrate my sensor a fourth time???! Does any "know" what temperature a Triumph engine "should be" running at, NOT what thermostat rating should be used? Thanks, Doug

Thanks Nick, I searched for an "off the shelf" bulge but they were all too long and would probably interfere with the  bonnet louvers. Having made this one and knowing how much I had to shape the underside to match the GT6 bonnet curves, I think I would have had large gaps between it and the bonnet. I used a Fein Multimaster (oscillating tool) to cut the bonnet and this gave a lovely thin cut so that any decent mig welderer can replace the off-cut. Cheers, Doug

Better cover the hole up before anyone else sees it!!!!! Keep up your great work. Cheers, Doug

I think a "normal" fuel rail would be where the green circle is. The yellow arrow is pointing to where the end of my barbed fuel injector adapter is. Perhaps the normal rail would have been a smidge lower than my rubber hoses, but either way, I would have ended up cutting the bonnet.  (Oh Dear, did I say that out loud?