Zeus
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Thanks Chaps, I'll order the 13/60 and report back if there are any issues. Zeus
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I found that bleeding the clutch slave is best done with the rear of the car lifted up on axle stands. That way the bleed nipple on the slave is at the highest point - where the air bubble is - and so bleeds better. Zeus
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Hi all, Can anyone offer any help. I have a 1200 Herald that the PO has fitted a 13/60 engine. He "massaged" the existing 1200 exhaust to fit the new engine by re-bending the down pipe section as the exhaust manifolds are slightly different. That exhaust is now toast - I want to buy a new complete system - Stainless I guess Will a 13/60 exhaust fit the undercarriage of my 1200 and will the hangers be in the same place? Any advice welcomed. Thanks Zeus
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Hi all, My Mk IV Spitfire has a cracked exhaust manifold - right through the section to No1 cylinder. I have tried to weld it back together but welding cast iron is beyond me, and even a professional weld might not be a long term fix. So I need to replace it. What options are there? I guess no one makes new ones in the cast form but are they still available anywhere as NOS or second hand even? I have been watching ebay - but nothing for a while. I could bite the bullet and go for a "Sports" tubular manifold. (I need a new full exhaust anyway). Of course that makes the car non standard but I guess it is a forgivable modification in some eyes. Are Sports exhaust systems any good? Do you get more power? are they noisy? Does the MPG suffer? Any bits of advice very gratefully received. Zeus
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Oh, by the way, When putting in new piston seals, I did not split the caliper body as the Haynes manual says not to do this and the seal kit contained no gaskets. There were two rubber washers that I could not find much use for. Should I have split the caliper body? Zeus
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Thanks for all the help with thise ideas. Tried them all now, and still no improvement. I am away for the weekend now but on my return I think I will try swapping calipers from my Spitfire. I hate breaking one car to fix another but there must be something wrong with the calipers and swapping them from a known working system should prove that. Once proved I guess I'll just have to fork out for refurbed calipers, but at 90 quid-ish for the pair plus another tener wasted on a seal kit it is starting to add up. Still, brakes are quite important arn't they? Zeus
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Yes. Other than swapping sides, which puts the nipple at the bottom, there isn't really many options for getting them mounted incorrectly. Zeus
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Hi all, I have just rebuilt most of the brakes on my '69 1200. It has type 14 calipers on the front. I stripped these and cleaned them before installing a new seal kit. Now re-fitted to the car, I cannot seem to bleed them properly using the 2 man method. It is definately the calipers as I have clamped off all the flexible hoses (4) and the pedal is solid. I remove one of the clamps from either front caliper and the pedal is squashy. Should I have primed them before fitting? I am about to unbolt the calipers whilst still plumbed in and try rotating them and bleeding them while holding them in my hand. I will have to find a chok to keep the pistons from extending. Any other tips? Zeus
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Thanks all. I have ordered one today from James paddocks. That should sort it Old ones kept for metal spraying another day David
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Hi all, Removed my drive shaft from my MkIV Spitfire. It was grumbling a little so I thought I would take a look. The shiny band is where the needle roller runs and you can see where the surface has just pitted a little and is starting to break up. Is this scrap and needs replacing? What do you think? It seems such a shame that the bearing runs directly on the shaft rather than having an inner race. David
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Thanks slim, That makes sense and I was kind of coming to that conclusion as the trunion (bearing housing) carries the outer oil seal that runs on the end of the hub and there is only a mm or two of area for the oil seal to run on so I was about to work that way. Your method seems a lot easier though. David
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Hi all, Rebuilding my drive shaft from a '72 MkIV Spitfire. New drive shaft (short) and new wheel bearing kit. Using the Haynes manual. I will also be putting a new UJ in. I am concerned about positioning the trunion assembly in the correct place on the shaft as there does not seem to be a positive location for it. Both needle and ball bearings are not against any step in the shaft so it seems down to me to set it correctly. The haynes manual says position the inner oil flinger to 146mm from the end of the threads on the shaft and drive the ball bearing on until it is seated in the trunion and tight up against the oil flinger. That does not seem terribly precise to me. The trunion holds the brake back plate and the hub (fitted to the shaft) will carry the brale drum. Surely the drum and backplate must be axially precise or the shoes will not line up with the drum. Do I make sense? Any tips please? David
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Well, I am not afraid of using spanners but given I would need to buy both a hub puller and also a bearing puller, I think I'll go down the route of buying a refurbished half shaft from someone like Canley. Their website gives you the impression that they know what they are talking about. Thanks for all your help. Zeus
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Hi all, thanks for the advice. I especially found the link to canley useful. I suspect now that the problem lies with a wheel bearing. I guess I will have to make or buy a puller first. Any tips on that? Zeus
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Hi all, Having introduced myself as a Newbie 5 minutes ago, I thought it was time to ask for some help. My MkIV Spitfire runs well, except for a rumbling or Grumbling sound from the rear axle. I recently removed the prop and found a bad UJ so I replaced that. It cured a lot of vibration and noise but still left me with something wrong on the rear axle. It could be bearings or diff problems but I am more inclined to feel it could be bushes or some other mounting problem. Is there a likely place to start looking? Should I suspect where the spring mounts to the diff casing? Zeus