ham204
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Posts
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Carboy0 - how is your EFI project coming on?
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Does the club sell these oil guns (show link please as I cannot find it) and if not, where is a good source to buy one?
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Thank you all for the very good suggestions. Much appreciated. From the electrical aspect of the fitting, would a relay be of any benefit and if yes, what size should I purchase?
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And where can I find a metal plate to replace the old mechanical pump?
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I'll be going for this I think. Surprising that there are many similar facet models going fro much cheaper than that and look the same - maybe chinese cheapo copies!
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Thanks for this but it does not seem to be compatible with the Mk4 (or GT6 for that matter)
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Yes definitely. I have a battery isolator very close at hand while driving but I suppose that something that works while I am otherwise occupied is a safe investment!
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I plan to convert my Mk 4 to an electric fuel pumo soon. What would be a suitable pump which is fit for purpose?
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I did n't know they changed sides midway in production. For sure it's more comfortable from the driver's side!
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Yes that metal is very hard indeed. No impression at all with my drill. Went to an engineer and was ready in 30 seconds! I'd be interested in 15" wheels - some pics please??
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I am thinking of fitting an additional cable for the bonnet catch as the consequences of the original one snapping are too nightmarish to think of. I saw the following set-up at the Cardiff Car Show. Looks very good but would like to see other set-ups if possible. Thanks in advance
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It's not for me - for a friend of mine who is not a Club Triumph member (yet). He has a 1969 MK 1. Can I send you his email address by pm so you two can discuss directly?
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new, reburbished? Details please
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I have a friend who is seeking a new or refurbished brake servo for his 2000 Mk 1. Any suggestions please?
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Problem has been solved far more easily than I expected. Yday I decided to isolate the thin brown/yellow wire and checked the battery drain again. This time it went to zero. That narrowed down the possibilities considerably. I then replaced the ignition bulb in the cluster just to make sure that it is a working bulb. Reconnected the br/yellow wire to the original connection in the car's harness (see my post above) - the one which when connected the first time to the new alternator, produced no charge when starting the engine! I was expecting the same result this time round but amazingly, the ignition light came on when I first turned the key and the voltmeter started climbing when I started the engine! I am a bit baffled how it has sorted itself out but am very happy with the result and definitely won't complain! I left the battery connections on and this morning the battery read a healthy 12.6v