Jump to content

GT6 1

Non-Member
  • Posts

    65
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

GT6 1's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (6/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. My Mk I had static Britax with chrome buckles, had them refurbished and re-webbed by F.D.T.S Ltd, can highly recommend .
  2. I went through a handful of used Lucas barrel metal flasher units on my GT6, they were all different some worked some didn't some were slow some went super fast, then found one just right. If you can try another. 🙂
  3. Original ones were asbestos so that is why they are no longer available. I may be able to get you some . I have original ones on mine .
  4. Hazen , piping goes along the top, down the two ends and on the inner part of the wheel arch, only the two bottom edges that touch the floor don't have piping. As for the door cards. measurements are : Top of card to black section 9" Black section to first heat molded stripe 1" Top of card to first stripe 6" black section to top stripe 3" stripes 1" apart. 3 stripes, but another wider one just on the edge where the vinyl joins the black section. Hope that makes some sense. Ant. 🙂
  5. I can do that for you Hazen, have my cards off the car in garage, and are originlas.
  6. Yes I have been told the gater was in black , but the red herring car a white prototype that all the pictures were taken of, had extra bits and different bits that never made it to production. Also the interior trim we have is actually Midnight blue not Shadow blue, as Shadow blue was Mk III. All references you find state 27 as Shadow blue and everyone assumes it is because it is a light blue.
  7. Looks like the gear stick gater would also be blue if you had that trim ?? didn't realize that.
  8. have tried the Autoglym stuff and has done a great job of removing all the glue from the shiny side of the dash pad, seems to be working on the metal side with some rubbing as well, thanks for the advice, we'll see how it goes. 🙂
  9. Someone also mentioned to me about using 'trim tape' like a double sided thin tape, for headlining fixing, but hadn't heard of this before, anyone used it??
  10. As It says , I am looking for a high temp contact adhesive  (not spray on) suitable for gluing vinyl trim to metal parts of the car including headlining etc. just wondering what people are impressed with on jobs they have done. Also any recommendations for removing old glue, from metal and vinyl, some time back I used a high temp spray on glue to do some parts, looking at them now it is peeling off so need to clean off the old glue, still very sticky, tried meths but no good, thanks. 🙂  
  11. if I can grt my legs under it and drive it the formula one will go on, looks stunning.
  12. The correct original wheel for the Mk I GT6 was the Formula five hole Leather bound wheel, however the wood rim Formula wheel as pictured above was an option on the Mk I, if you want originality that is the choice. Most people find them a bit big and replace with another wheel, however best to keep your original just in case you sell the car so it can go with it. I have a formula wood rim in lovely condition with horn push, not yet fitted so who knows I may end up finding it to big, paid £250, both types make good money. 🙂
  13. No Sealer, my request, but they agreed it didn't need it as it was a new paint job and new seal as did my Triumph Guru.
  14. Ok, so I cheated and nipped up to my local glass place, they put it in nicely in 20 mins for £10. No tool needed for the trim even if tight I am told it will push in with some washing up liquid to help. Also I was told not to try and straighten the trim before you put it in as it will crease it, just feed it in even if curled up. 🙂
  15. Ah I thought that trim went in a bit easy, everyone said it was hard, I guess the answer is a bit of sealant/glue in the slot?
×
×
  • Create New...