Silvester

I can see the appeal of DIY on this one; quality apart, the fit isn't great either

Tiger seal it is - many thanks

Thank you for the Canley illustration now I can see how it fits. The metal clips aren't very sympathetic to the paintwork, anybody any views on whether to use a sealant i.e Tiger seal- something that might also help me lose the gaps between the metal clips. 

My conclusion is that the plastic wheels must be an addition from a PO to replace the tubes. With the cable replacement extended with an extra clevis and spring (as it was before) it all works, however I'd prefer to find one single spring rather than the tandem arrangement so off to see what I can find. 

To update my own post, with careful jiggling it is possible to get the cable through the compensator in situ (you need warmer conditions than yesterday!!) All would have been well but now I find that the old part (that was too short) and the new part are the same (Part No 127311). My only observation tracking the cables journey is that rather than the secondary cable guides I can see in my workshop manual and online, which are what look like L-shape open tubes, I have plastic/nylon wheels with a groove in the centre. It could be that these are making the cables journey a little longer, resulting in the cable being short, but are these an addition made in the past or the correct parts? 

Opening this as a separate thread to my previous drum brake question (that issue is now resolved - thanks guys!) Mine is a Mk1 2 litre Vitessse and from what I can establish the cable between the two drums should is longer than that fitted to later rotoflex Mk2 models. If that's correct, it seems that my car is fitted with the wrong (shorter) cable and a previous owner has 'jerry-rigged' an extension on the driver's side joining two metal clevis pieces and two springs to extend the cable to create the link to the back of the drum brake set up. I have what I believe to be the correct longer cable, but having stripped down the old cable of the fitting kit, I now discover that the threaded section of the cable will not pass through the U shaped compensation. Given that this is hidden behind the prop, I'm hoping that someone can share  a fix that doesn't involve prop removal etc to get to this. On the other hand, is reinstating the old double clevis / spring fix (with new springs) the best option?   All thoughts appreciated   Graham

Braved the weather and spent the afternoon working to sort this out both the adjusters (new ones fitted) and disconnecting the handbrake helped and the drums are on!  However, there is something odd with the handbrake cable:   Passenger side looks like the workshop manual suggests but the driver side has two springs and two metal clevis pieces joined to create the link to the back of the drum brake set up. Having stipped down both sides because there seemed to be some available adjustment it seems it is not enough and without an extra clevis and spring the cable is too short, very odd. Amongst my spares, I have a spare cable but unless I'm missing some easy fix, I can't easily get the old cable out because the threads at both ends won't pass through the u shaped piece hidden behind the prop. I'm thinking about reinstating the old double clevis / spring fix (after all my spare one could also be short) but before I do any thoughts?   Many thanks guys    

Braved the weather and spent the afternoon working to sort this out both the adjusters (new ones fitted) and disconnecting the handbrake helped and the drums are on!  However, there is something odd with the handbrake cable:   Passenger side looks like the workshop manual suggests but the driver side has two springs and two metal clevis pieces joined to create the link to the back of the drum brake set up. Having stipped down both sides because there seemed to be some available adjustment it seems it is not enough and without an extra clevis and spring the cable is too short, very odd. Amongst my spares, I have a spare cable but unless I'm missing some easy fix, I can't easily get the old cable out because the threads at both ends won't pass through the u shaped piece hidden behind the prop. I'm thinking about reinstating the old double clevis / spring fix (after all my spare one could also be short) but before I do any thoughts?   Many thanks guys    

Braved the weather and spent the afternoon working to sort this out both the adjusters (new ones fitted) and disconnecting the handbrake helped and the drums are on!  However, there is something odd with the handbrake cable:   Passenger side looks like the workshop manual suggests but the driver side has two springs and two metal clevis pieces joined to create the link to the back of the drum brake set up. Having stipped down both sides because there seemed to be some available adjustment it seems it is not enough and without an extra clevis and spring the cable is too short, very odd. Amongst my spares, I have a spare cable but unless I'm missing some easy fix, I can't easily get the old cable out because the threads at both ends won't pass through the u shaped piece hidden behind the prop. I'm thinking about reinstating the old double clevis / spring fix (after all my spare one could also be short) but before I do any thoughts?   Many thanks guys    

Many thanks Sam, I'll add that to this weekend's checklist - we will overcome!

The one thing I didn't change was the adjusters; so first step off to lube and check them  - thanks for the steer guys; drum brakes are something I've always avoided in the past,  happily learning still

Having fitted new everything to the rear drums on my Vitesse Mk1 2 litre, I now find the drum won't go back on. I've backed the adjusters right off still no joy. There is a very slight lip on the drum, but before I invest in new drums, is there anything else I can try?  Al thoughts appreciated 

All the nuts are off the top of the exhaust manifold and finally and successfully I've got the one off underneath as well. Now, I wasn't expecting it to simply fall off but....ell it still won't shift. Now before i get out the mallet......is there something obvious I'm missing, or is it simply that over the years it has become tightly wedged and the mallet is the best option? Sorry this seems a wee bit basic but I'd like to get this done properly! BW Graham

Thanks guys that was my instinct - I'll keep soaking the final suck nut on the underside of the manifold for a good few days first but ordering the gasket now in readiness. At least it should all look great! BW graham

Well I finally got the exhaust off the manifold and it was the 'by hook or crook' method! The nuts which were steel rather than brass were absolutely solid so in the end I used my Dremmel to get them off. Now I'm left with the rethread of the manifold - I'd like to think this could be done without removing the exhaust manifold, given some of he concerns about ongoing gasket failure thereafter - is it possible, or should I just take it off ?