Nobbie
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Thanks for the reply Rob, I've just had a play with a meter and it looks like it was a dodgy connection on that connector on the right, it just pulls out and is the only connection to the positive on the coil. Voltage when pushed in is only 6-7V, so assume it's via the ballast resistor. I'm amazed it's worked upto now as it seems to make connection if you push it in, but you can remove it entirely and theirs just a piece of braided wire attached to the connector. Anyway, it started fine and I'll order a new solenoid
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I've just been cleaning up the bulkhead area and removed all the stuff including the Starter solenoid. Car now turns over fine, but does not fire. I'm thinking it could be one of three things: 1. I've disturbed the Luminition ignition and it's stopped working 2. I've disrupted the grounding of the coil or starter solenoid by painting the bulkhead before refitting 3. The connection on the left halfway up the solenoid just comes out and doesn't seem to be connected to anything. What should this be doing? I have a feeling it's been like this a while and hasn't affected starting upto now. Any ideas? I'm waiting for the rain to pass before having a play.
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Spent yesterday doing this and the initial run seemed to be OK, but only time will tell. I think half the reason may have been a lack of torque to the bolt on that corner as the nut was not running freely on the thread. I found a little brass valve extender in my box of cycle bits and almost fitted this in the oil way as it was a perfect fit, but thought it may reduce oil flow a bit so scrapped the idea. Water pump looked like it was leaking, so I removed it, but the bearing seems fine and I refitted it to see how it goes. At least I sorted out the seized studs on the pump housing while it was on the bench. Any recommendations for a good replacement pump if this one has had it?
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I removed the rocker oil feed after reading the links on the subject, can't think why I fitted it really, maybe it was all the fashion 20 years ago. Head is still leaking, so I've ordered a Payen gasket set off James Paddock (only £15+£3 P+P) and will whip the head off when it gets a bit warmer and use a bit of blue Hylomar to hopefully seal it. Where did you get the thin wall tube from to go down the oil way? Might take a look at this option once the head is off. Maybe look in my tin of bicycle bits for something suitable.
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Thanks for the info re the oil feed, it was 20 years ago I did it, but haven't done much mileage in that time and can't remember why I did it at the time. I'll try removing it as a starter as this should reduce the pressure up there.
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I've recently been running the Mk IV Spitfire more regularly and the constant leak from the rear of the block is getting annoying so I'm going to take the head off and sort it before my drive is ruined. It's a 1500 engine from an old dolomite, but basically the same as the 1500 spitfire. I believe this is a common problem, but my forum search skills seem to be lacking. Could anyone advise me on what I need to do to sort this out once and for all. I have the external rocker shaft feed fitted if this makes a difference to blocking up any oil ways. From memory it seems to be a decent gasket? Some Hylomar and possibly new head bolts?
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How can an engine be over cooled by a radiator when it only comes into use when the thermostat opens? Is it due to the time lag of the thermostat closing?
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Mines a Mk IV with a 1500 Dolly engine in it and it doesn't make much difference unless you expect to be driving it a lot harder once the 1500 is in, although to be honest, I find the 1500 much more of a cruiser because of the torque available and it doesn't rev as well as the 1300 because of the long stroke. Maybe the pad upgrade is worthwhile, I've never tried them, but have heard that some pad upgrades only work when driving the car hard so they get upto temperature. Maybe the Mintex mentioned above don't have this drawback?
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Why do you want to update the brakes? A good start is just to thoroughly service the brake system and get everything it top condition and see how they are then. On old cars a lot of bits may well be past their best such as flexible hoses, or the fluid may be old and need changing. The only upgrade I did was to get braided hoses and the system works very nicely. Found this thread below which may give food for thought Sorry , link no longer available Probably plenty of other threads on this if you use the search function.
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Only just seen this thread. Good to see someone who knows what they're doing and takes the time to get things right. I wish I had the time, skills and patience. It's going to be a great car by the time you finish. If you get bored of it once it's finished, I'll take it off your hands
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From the reading I've done, it sounds like the linkage between the two carbs needs to be adjusted
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I've used BlackCircles.com for tyres before and they seem to have a very wide range available and then you just get them fitted at a nearby tyre centre. I was looking at the 155/80R13 Yokohama Bluearth AE01 for £37.10 fitted. They seem like a decent tyre, any views?