hypoid53
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Here you go...taken from the 'official' red workshop manual. 😎
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Here you go...taken from the 'official' red workshop manual. 😎
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On my Spitfire 1500 fitted with the 65/25 cam and Phoenix exhaust manifold, I have been experimenting with needle and spring combinations. From ABT I went to AAT, and then AAQ with the original red spring. On the rolling road with the AAQ and yellow spring it was still a tad rich between 1200 and 2500rpm, so I have gone back to AAT with yellow spring and it has cured the mid-range richness. Still with standard air filters and Zenith 20 SAE oil in the dashpots, but it is purring like a kitten at the moment! Stiill work in progress though 😎
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For what it's worth, I had my Spitfire rocker cover and air box powder-coated in 1999 and they are still looking good after 17 years of use! 🙂
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Thank you to everyone for their contribution to this topic. Overall, I am favouring Falken in 155/80 or Yokohama in 175/70. As I am not replacing the tyres until the spring, I will revisit the options then. A quick word on crossplies. Back in 1972, my first Spitfire, a 1966 Mk2 with wire wheels, came with Dunlop crossplies and was lethal! I put it in a ditch within a week, as I explored the 'interesting' handling characteristics of the swing axle rear suspension. A set of Goodyear G800 radials followed immediately, and I have used radials ever since. The dreaded 'tuck-under' is a rite of passage for all Triumph Spitfire drivers. 😀
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Whilst I have the Spitfire up on stands for a winter overhaul, I realise that my Michelin Classic 155R13 tyres are now 15 years old! Although in very good condition (the MOT man said so!!) I feel it is time they were replaced given that 'modern' tyres are only good for 6 years. I see that 13 inch tyres on 80 aspect ratio are very rare now, so will consider 175/70's. I have used Avon 175/70 CR322's on my GT6 with 5J rims, but would rather fit something else on the Spitfire with original 4.5J steel wheels. Any recommendations for a summer use, low annual mileage tyre? 🙂
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I have just spoken with Phoenix, apparently the resonator box was originally for German customers! They only sell about 20 units per year to UK customers. It can be replaced by their two-into one-pipe, PXTH187. If I go down that route then I could use a standard GT6 centre box (with subsequent risk of rattling on the chassis rails) to keep the noise down.....
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And a few more pix..... The back box and centre pipe are GT6. There is an adaptor after the front resonator.
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For the last 10 years I have run my mildly tuned Spitfire 1500 with a Phoenix 4 branch manifold and resonator box coupled to a GT6 rear silencer box. It has performed well BUT I have an annoying 'resonance' at 1200 and 3000 rpm which I can take no longer. A recent rolling road test showed the engine and system was performing well but with the aforesaid noise within the cockpit. The system is as shown in the photos. I am wondering if the ADDITION of a GT6 centre box behind the resonator might eliminate the 'resonance' OR delete the front resonator box with a Bell type front dual connector pipe (if it will fit!) and then a GT6 centre box. What is the collective thought on this idea?
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I have dug out a 2006 pre-restoration photo of my GT6 which may help. The wiring (purple for the interior light is visible) is shown emerging from the main loom behind the inner panel at approx 10-o- clock on the rear arch and is shown dangling. It should go upto the roof line at the vertical stiffener (rh of picture ) and then between the inner and outer roof panels to emerge at the LH tailgate hinge position. Do not be confused by the black tank breather pipe! I used a coat hanger to 'fish' the wire through this tight gap
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Iain and Stewart, thanks for your input. I have a drawer full of 1N4001 diodes so will use a trio of these to to control the dip relay as suggested. I do not generally use the car at night so maybe bulb longevity is not an issue..... but it is reassuring to know my lights are fit for purpose. 🙂
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Driving my Spitfire in the evening twilight last night, my new Halogen headlight conversion proved to be a vast improvement on the original sealed beam units. I have them relayed with uprated wiring, and it was a relevation to flash the main beams whilst dipped to reveal a much better overall beam pattern. It would be a simple matter to have the dip relay come on when in main beam BUT would the bulb life suffer at twice the heat loading, and would the headlight unit cope with the heat ? Anyone got long-term experience with H4 bulb life if used in this way?
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Some of you Triumphistas may find this interesting. I have just purchased a NOS TKC 1155 cylinder head from my old acquaintance, Mick Dolphin. I want a spare as I am going to Stage 2 my existing head. Still crated up, it is stamped TKC 1155 (but note it was something else earlier...) and further stamped SS27/73, which I know to mean 'Supplied Spare' and presumably dated week 27 in 1973. As Home market Spitfire 1500's were still 2 years away, and only the US Federal engines were 1500 I reckon this is a left over Federal head, (possibly TKC1410 as it has valve inserts in both the inlets and exhausts) which was rebranded by Stanpart for the UK market. The head depth is 3.10" which also supports this view, So with a 50 thou skim I would have a NOS unleaded head, which will save a few bob! 😎 The accountants at Triumph were a canny lot!
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I think I may be able to sort you some out Steve. I will PM you tomorrow morning. 8)