hypoid53
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Everything posted by hypoid53
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Here you go...taken from the 'official' red workshop manual. 😎
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Here you go...taken from the 'official' red workshop manual. 😎
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On my Spitfire 1500 fitted with the 65/25 cam and Phoenix exhaust manifold, I have been experimenting with needle and spring combinations. From ABT I went to AAT, and then AAQ with the original red spring. On the rolling road with the AAQ and yellow spring it was still a tad rich between 1200 and 2500rpm, so I have gone back to AAT with yellow spring and it has cured the mid-range richness. Still with standard air filters and Zenith 20 SAE oil in the dashpots, but it is purring like a kitten at the moment! Stiill work in progress though 😎
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For what it's worth, I had my Spitfire rocker cover and air box powder-coated in 1999 and they are still looking good after 17 years of use! 🙂
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Thank you to everyone for their contribution to this topic. Overall, I am favouring Falken in 155/80 or Yokohama in 175/70. As I am not replacing the tyres until the spring, I will revisit the options then. A quick word on crossplies. Back in 1972, my first Spitfire, a 1966 Mk2 with wire wheels, came with Dunlop crossplies and was lethal! I put it in a ditch within a week, as I explored the 'interesting' handling characteristics of the swing axle rear suspension. A set of Goodyear G800 radials followed immediately, and I have used radials ever since. The dreaded 'tuck-under' is a rite of passage for all Triumph Spitfire drivers. 😀
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Whilst I have the Spitfire up on stands for a winter overhaul, I realise that my Michelin Classic 155R13 tyres are now 15 years old! Although in very good condition (the MOT man said so!!) I feel it is time they were replaced given that 'modern' tyres are only good for 6 years. I see that 13 inch tyres on 80 aspect ratio are very rare now, so will consider 175/70's. I have used Avon 175/70 CR322's on my GT6 with 5J rims, but would rather fit something else on the Spitfire with original 4.5J steel wheels. Any recommendations for a summer use, low annual mileage tyre? 🙂
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I have just spoken with Phoenix, apparently the resonator box was originally for German customers! They only sell about 20 units per year to UK customers. It can be replaced by their two-into one-pipe, PXTH187. If I go down that route then I could use a standard GT6 centre box (with subsequent risk of rattling on the chassis rails) to keep the noise down.....
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And a few more pix..... The back box and centre pipe are GT6. There is an adaptor after the front resonator.
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For the last 10 years I have run my mildly tuned Spitfire 1500 with a Phoenix 4 branch manifold and resonator box coupled to a GT6 rear silencer box. It has performed well BUT I have an annoying 'resonance' at 1200 and 3000 rpm which I can take no longer. A recent rolling road test showed the engine and system was performing well but with the aforesaid noise within the cockpit. The system is as shown in the photos. I am wondering if the ADDITION of a GT6 centre box behind the resonator might eliminate the 'resonance' OR delete the front resonator box with a Bell type front dual connector pipe (if it will fit!) and then a GT6 centre box. What is the collective thought on this idea?
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I have dug out a 2006 pre-restoration photo of my GT6 which may help. The wiring (purple for the interior light is visible) is shown emerging from the main loom behind the inner panel at approx 10-o- clock on the rear arch and is shown dangling. It should go upto the roof line at the vertical stiffener (rh of picture ) and then between the inner and outer roof panels to emerge at the LH tailgate hinge position. Do not be confused by the black tank breather pipe! I used a coat hanger to 'fish' the wire through this tight gap
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Iain and Stewart, thanks for your input. I have a drawer full of 1N4001 diodes so will use a trio of these to to control the dip relay as suggested. I do not generally use the car at night so maybe bulb longevity is not an issue..... but it is reassuring to know my lights are fit for purpose. 🙂
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Driving my Spitfire in the evening twilight last night, my new Halogen headlight conversion proved to be a vast improvement on the original sealed beam units. I have them relayed with uprated wiring, and it was a relevation to flash the main beams whilst dipped to reveal a much better overall beam pattern. It would be a simple matter to have the dip relay come on when in main beam BUT would the bulb life suffer at twice the heat loading, and would the headlight unit cope with the heat ? Anyone got long-term experience with H4 bulb life if used in this way?
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Some of you Triumphistas may find this interesting. I have just purchased a NOS TKC 1155 cylinder head from my old acquaintance, Mick Dolphin. I want a spare as I am going to Stage 2 my existing head. Still crated up, it is stamped TKC 1155 (but note it was something else earlier...) and further stamped SS27/73, which I know to mean 'Supplied Spare' and presumably dated week 27 in 1973. As Home market Spitfire 1500's were still 2 years away, and only the US Federal engines were 1500 I reckon this is a left over Federal head, (possibly TKC1410 as it has valve inserts in both the inlets and exhausts) which was rebranded by Stanpart for the UK market. The head depth is 3.10" which also supports this view, So with a 50 thou skim I would have a NOS unleaded head, which will save a few bob! 😎 The accountants at Triumph were a canny lot!
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I think I may be able to sort you some out Steve. I will PM you tomorrow morning. 8)
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PM sent. :)
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The last Mk2 engine was KC83397 in December 1970, so yours at 80000+ should be late 1970. Internally it should be identical to the HC Vitesse engine you have fitted, but after all these years you will not know for sure until you strip it down. Both these engine should have the unrecessed blocks of course.
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Well analysed Marcus. As an experiment the original Konis (80-1717) I had originally fitted were put back and now..........SORTED! The underlying culprit was the main spring. Replacing that was the right move, however the mistake was compounded by fitting the replacement GAZ (which were the wrong ones), instead of refitting the Konis. The moral is; only change 1 thing at a time! :-/
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Might have solved this. The shocks should be 2270 but are actually 2273 which is the STANDARD rotoflex shock and is 9.5" closed 14" open. So thats why they are bottoming out. Replacement 2270 shocks now being ordered. Through a simple error in ordering and thinking they were 2270's the very condition that was to be alleviated was actually reproduced. DOH ??)
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No bump stops on the bracket conversion John. You lose that when you remove the wheel arch mounting plates.
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The car originally had Koni 18-1717 shocks (Mini Cooper) but one was defective. The TSSC GAZ ones are 'specials' and are 8.5/8" closed 12.125" open which closely matches the Konis. They are based on the GAZ GT4-2270. I would like to see some other brackets for comparison as this LH banging is apparently common to the GT6 with these brackets. If the shock is still bottoming out then the shock mounts needs to be made further apart surely? The top mount is the most likely suspect in my opinion.
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Here is a photo (taken early in the rebuild) of my mounting extension brackets as fitted (from Chic Doig incidentally). How do they compare with other brackets available. To get more shock travel the top fixing eye for the shock could be arced a little higher. What has everyone else got fitted?
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Here are some comparative measurements:- top shock to ground : passenger 608mm : driver 614mm Then jacked up level with wheels off:- bottom shock to ground: passenger 288mm: driver 298mm top to bottom shock mounts passenger 328 driver 328 inner wishbone to ground: passenger 360mm :driver 365mm wishbone (u/r) to ground: passenger 242mm :driver 252mm So nothing seems awry there. I have spoken to GAZ and they say it must be the mounting points: but these measurements show them to be within 10mm tolerance. The front has Moss TT4701 springs and Gaz adjustables. Not an intentional lowering as such, just the weight of that engine!
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Quote:pics of car needed for inspecting flatness,
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796 wrote:3 things come to mind 1, the shockers are the wrong type, , IE original roto shockers These are new GAZ supplied by the TSSC shop as being correct size for the conversion bracket. 2, the actuall shocker has a fault, I have a pair, and the car developed a nok frae,t passenger side. was found to be shocker its self, banging frae inside its self. The same problem arose with the Konis fitted previously 3, ye say, ......To lessen the banging they are currently on setting 9 out of 12 which is a bit hard! I agree there is a condition called shocker pull doon, ie, the shockers settings for fliud flow, are strang,r than the springs deflection rate, so as yer going along, the car slowly gets lower and lower, till it bottoms oot. thats why springs need to be matched to damper I am going to talk to GAZ about that. Will try the Konis again. try it on other side, see if it still noks,if it noks on other side, then its shocker. still sitting low on one side at rest, then maybe front springs are weak, set wrong,or chassis twist, or maybe even the VL threads are coming oot the trunnion, lowering that side only Everything is sitting flat and square and floor to top mount measurements are identical try and show a pic of underneath cr showing full length of car, so can see if car is actually sitting flat if left front is doon, then right rear will be up, and vice vera edit, is the car got a lowering block in it ,!!!! No block, and new canley spring just fitted. Sits well on the road and looks 'right'. M