hypoid53
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Everything posted by hypoid53
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Quote:I say its the shock knocking due to having insufficient range of movement which is common on this conversion. I tend to agree but what can be done about it. These are GAZ shocks. The same problem arose on Konis fitted previously. Can the manufacturer alter the specification to correct this problem?
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Slimboyfat wrote:How much fuel did you have in the tank when you took those pictures? Slightly more than 3/4 of a tank Quote:Sure it's not the spring rather than the dampers? No, but it is a new Canley spring and the car 'sits' right. The banging was present with the previous OE spring as well. Quote:Bent vertical link? Cannot be ruled out, but unlikely. It was checked before fitting against the WM specs and was a mirror of the RH side. Tracking is spot on.
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I am experiencing a bit of a problem with rotoflex GT6 rear shocks. The top mounts are on shock extensions off the chassis but a banging noise is still experienced from the LH rear. The photos clearly show a difference in the compression of the shocks when stationary. Look at the position of the blue sleeve relative to the GAZ logo. The car drives well; has been laser tracked on all 4 wheels and sits perfectly on a new Canley spring. The new GAZ shocks are the correct length ones for the top mount modification from the TSSC. To lessen the banging they are currently on setting 9 out of 12 which is a bit hard! Top mount measurements to the ground are identical. Any ideas what could be causing this?
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Quote:No they were at the Oke control at 05.00 this morning. Ah, but that was on their way in....... :P My sighting was on their way out from Bude and heading for the A38 and Exeter for the return leg. ;D Just in time too as it is raining now! :'(
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I have just seen (12.20pm) two convoys of Triumphs go through Holsworthy, Devon on the A3072, en-route to the A30 at Okehampton presumably. a magnificent sight in the autumn sunshine! The two works Vitesse's were particularly magnificent. 8)
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They are held in place by their own spring tension, with some location from the headlining sleeve. Just pull one end out and its off. Try not to bend them out of shape though as they are all of a slightly different radius.
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I think the DVLA have the wrong chassis number...
hypoid53 replied to Sidewaysste's topic in Triumph Chat
DVLA often record the suffix O (for overdrive) as a 0 (Zero) but that does not explain the 1 unless it is left hand drive and L is recorded as 1 which would make KE29 0 L KE2901...! Just a thought. :) -
It is located on the off side rear of the diff top. It has a split pin in it to keep it clear, but may be crudded up, so give it a good clean and jiggle that pin free. ;D
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Its purpose is to lubricate the sliding yoke section on the rear propshaft splines. It usually has a blanking plug in place to maintain the balance of the prop; but if yours is Ok leave it in place. Give it a couple of shots of grease with a gun.. ;) ;)
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Hi Ian. Yes, you can fit manual adjusters. Triumph originally did it with the Mk1, but the backplates are now very rare. I used Toledo backplates, as they use the GBS850 8" x 1.5" shoes, redrilled to bring the adjusters to 6 o clock and with a bracket for the handbrake welded into place. PM me if you would like photos. 8)
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John, the rear datum points should be the outside rear edge of the tower, to the inside rear edge of the rear bracket arm = 14.17cm. Looks like you are 99% there! :)
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Steve, there should be small depressions in the seal to mark where the clips go. These make the seal thickness a little thinner for the clips to bite. I find dropping the door glass from the regulator pins and lowering to the bottom of the door makes the job easier. Here is a pic of the seals and different types of clip. :)
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Steve, there should be small depressions in the seal to mark where the clips go. These make the seal thickness a little thinner for the clips to bite. I find dropping the door glass from the regulator pins and lowering to the bottom of the door makes the job easier. Here is a pic of the seals and different types of clip. :)
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Thanks for your replies. I decided to follow up the advice of Marcus and UKsnatcher and removed the new filter. I then weighed it at 780g against a new one at 410g. So there is approx 0.371 litres of oil in the filter after 3 days! Result. 🙂
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I have left the engine standing for 2 days...............and the dipstick is now reading higher than before. So the filter has drained back into the sump. Oh well, it was worth a try. It is no worse than before and I should have better filtration and I can use 3/8" threaded filters. I will see if things improve when I am using the car during the summer.
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I thought it time to get off my behind and get out into the garage to fit my new Mann filter to the Spitfire. Straightforward task using the new 3/4" adaptor. I screwed it into the filter first as there would not have been enough thread used if I put it home into the block. Took some time to pressurise the engine (plugs out) with the new oil and empty filter. I will give it a couple of days to see if the oil level rises in the sump. Looks good to me though and with the benefit of better filtration and a lttle more oil in the engine.
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Sorry for an confusion (mine!). I now understand what you intend, and yes, you can obviously keep the bracket/koni set up when you go cv. However, if the ultimate intention is to go cv I personally would not bother with the extra expense of the bracket and rare 80-1717's when the Spitfire Koni should be more available and possibly cheaper. Triumph were obviously happy with the angled shock. If it isn't broke why fix it? ;)
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The only Koni's that will fit the rear conversion bracket set up on a rotoflex are 80-1717. You need 8.5" closed 12.5" open, and these are the closest you can get. Check the archives as there has been a LOT of discussion on this topic over the years. :) I have used these on mine for the last 5 years with no problems. If you are going down the cv route they will not be suitable. Use Spitfire spec konis as they attach direct to the top chassis mount. You will not need the brackets.
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Thanks Uk. I have now ordered two for LESS than I paid for ONE from a UK supplier last year. Brilliant.
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The breather is on the top rh side (offside) when viewed from the rear, and has a 'jiggle' pin in it to keep it clear....unless it is all crudded up, which is quite probable. Give it a clean and check the pin lifts freely. Job done.
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Only the very last GT6's (Feb '73 to Nov '73), ie the non-rotoflex ones with sundym glass had servos fitted from the factory, and they only worked on the front brakes as the rear drums were larger and with the dreaded self-adjusters. Yours sounds like an early Mk3 (1970-71), should be rotoflex and does not have, or need, a servo. It is modern car usage that gets people so used to them that they feel everything should have them! ;D
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I am pretty sure those 12 blade fans are from Spitfire 1500's with viscous couplings. The fixing centres are too wide for the crank mounted type used on the GT6. I also read that the plastic fans are self balancing in that when they heat up and cool down from engine heat they 'relax'. 8)
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Quote:Bought some Koni 80 1717 (mini fronts) shocks which I think are correct for the rear of my Gt6 Mk2 with the chassis brackets fitted. I used polybush on my konis. Got them direct from the manufacturer if I remember correctly. For the record, can you confirm the open and closed lengths of the shocks, in inches, measured from the bush centres. These are the first new 80-1717 I have seen in a long time! Where did you find them? 8)