Jason C

Side thought: how does the OD driving experience compare to that of a traditional 5 speed?

Ah, thanks Richard. That makes sense. J'Type sounds to be the best version being the final iteration. Any idea on production quantities of the units? J'Type easier for parts availability down the track...

Hi Glang, thank you — that's another solid idea. To be honest I'm pretty keen on trying to keep the car "original", well as best I can. It does seem to get complicated quickly. My current non-OD gearbox hasn't been great since I've owned the car, suffering from this noice thats only got worse. I listened to some poor advice, saying the noise was an "old car" thing. In many ways fixing the original I'm betting would make a world of difference. I'm currently nursing it through 2nd and 3rd to be safe and the noise is awful. How noisy do you find your gearbox, pretty good? Guess coming down to the idea of spending 2k on the existing or 2k towards an overdrive. But finding one and fitting one I fear could soon add up quickly.   

Hi Matt, thanks for the recommendation — by chance do you have the name of the business? The birthplace of Rugby, nice, there are a few people around these parts into Rugby. Trying to track down any New Zealand specialists. I was once told of a man known simply as "The Over Drive Man" ... ha, no name, no address. Interestingly noticed http://www.quantumechanics.com mentions NZ as one site of manufacturing.

Thanks Richard Agree, research is critical. I'm a little confused what the D'Type or J'Type means? Reading, although this was in relation to TR: "The J-type is an improved design and parts are more readily available. But it shifts slower than an A-type, which IMO is less 'sporty'. Given the choice, I'd go with the A."

Thanks Rob! Interesting, for my requirements do you think ideally to source a Dolomite 1850 unit and then fit an overdrive unit? Am I correct in thinking the OD is a separate unit designed by Laycock de Normanville that was fitted to a range of different British cars around that time i.e. it's not directly integrated with the gearbox itself? Perhaps ideally source a Dolomite 1850 gearbox with OD, then fit column stalk control? Also, I've noticed a J or D Type mentioned, what is this referring to? The column change looks nifty, from what I see, looks like a indicator style stalk behind the high/low beam control with a different shaped plastic cowling? Then find a shorter prop shaft from what I understand, are these specific to the Vitesse with OD fitted at the time? Apologies in advance for all the novice questions! Thank you!

Hello! I have a grumbling/rumbling, coarse sounding noise in 2nd and 3rd gear from the gearbox, once in 4th gear there is no noise. My mechanic believes it’s a layshaft bearing collapsing. With 4th gear being direct, therefore no noise. He has advised to recondition the gearbox asap before further damage is done to the gears. Vitesse Mark 1. Think I’ll leave this to the mechanic as I think I’ll be out of my depth on this one. A few pointers would be great to help make sure the job gets done right, as it seems a major. Have confidence in his workmanship, just wanting to do some research before jumping in. He mentioned around 1—2k NZD, depending on the condition of the gearbox once it’s dismantled. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. - I’ve often wondered about upgrading to an overdrive, but having never driven one, I'm unsure of whether I’m missing out. From what I’ve read the OD is really great!! Great for passing and driving on the open road, reducing revs and fuel consumption. For me I've found to be wanting a 5th gear for driving on the open road. I’ve also read that an OD helps increase performance, as you have an extra gear to keep pulling through. Just thought now would be a good time to explore the option of a potential upgrade to OD. Like I mentioned have only read of the merits of the OD, but don't have anything to compare to, only driven a more modern car 5 speed. Love to hear from your real world experiences! - Canley Classics no longer stock OD unit kits. Not sure how easy it will be to track down an OD gearbox and shorter prop shaft in good condition. Assume if I can find one, it would need to be rebuilt. - Someone once mentioned to me there was a “stronger” gearbox from another Triumph that could be used as a replacement in the Vitesse. - I’m not looking to build a race car. My goals are to keep the car original within reason where I can, and as I do things if possible improve the driving experience. Also the goal is reliability, as they say do something right. - Check/replace clutch assembly while we’re at it? - I’m told the gearbox's weren’t "quiet" in their youth, imagine more like what my 4th gear is like now? - If an OD was fitted to my Mark 1 would it have had the switch on the gear knob? Any pointers would be great! Love to hear what to look for, any traps... And thoughts on the OD — how it feels to drive! Thank you all!

Thanks Rob! Appreciate the detailed advice, most helpful — planing to have a go over the weekend. Thanks again

Thanks John! Thank you for the kind offer, the option could be on the cards if I can't resolve it. I'm in New Zealand, would this be an issue? I could try sourcing the part locally first if it's a pain. Brings me to another question, who would know if there are any second hand Triumph car wreckers still around in NZ? On-line searching doesn't result in much... Sorry new to the game!

Thanks Rob, I'm pretty sure the glass drops freely, as when I reinstalled the glass it flew quickly to the bottom leaving me a little concerned it may break. Before I disconnect those circlips from the lift mechanism to confirm, can you recommend the best way to align the door channels? I followed the procedure outlined in the handbook, loosened bolts, fixing quarter light first, winding up then fixing small channel (wire hooked behind it), but perhaps I'm overlooking something. With the noticeable rubbing on the window regular large cog, could it be something with this? Although seemed like it was non serviceable and maybe nothing out of the ordinary, and assuming it would maybe cause a little friction, but seems really stiff. The driver side winder is quite easy to wind, should it be silky smooth? Well as effortless as hand winding can be?

Thanks John, Interesting, sounds like I need to refit a weather shield as per factory. Correct checked channels, one has a new liner the other as original seems to be no obstructions nor bent.

Hi all, I’m new to the world of Triumph and the community. 🙂 I have a Triumph Vitesse 1968 Mark 1 and would love some help with resolving a stiff passenger window winder. The joy of window winding requires strong muscles and becomes even harder to wind upwards towards the top section. Upon inspection the regulator cog mechanism seems to rub slightly on the raised fixing nodes making a scraping noise in one direction, but seems to turn "okay" when out of the door. I refitted the quarter panel and glass, oiled moving pivots and regreased the window regulator and refitted as per the Body Service Training Notes, but no noticeable improvement. Couple of questions; 1. Where the window regulator is mounted to the body by the crank handle, the panel seems to flex considerably when winding. A symptom of needing a new regulator, or have I not refitted the channels/quarter panel correctly. Am I missing something with the channel setup for smooth winding, I have fitted the wire behind the channel for alignment etc. How does one tell where the quarter panel should be aligned, it looks okay when the door is shut to the body. Is there a distance between quarter light frame and A pillar that should be adhered to? Something else to look out for? 2. There seems to be quite a bit of adjustment within the set-up, i.e. when should the central bolt for the window regulator arms be tightened to the body for correct alignment? 3. Weather shield — I have removed this from the window glass to see if this would make a difference. Also, it seemed to make a subtle rustling noise behind the panel as the window was cranked. What is the best practise for this water barrier? Can I recreate like a modern car system by adhering the plastic barrier to the inside of the door panel with resealable chalking. Or will the water come inside. Or fit something like this to the door panel itself; http://www.newtoncomm.co.uk/ca.....ners-herald-vitesse/ Am I correct in thinking the primary goal of the plastic shield is to protect the door panel from damage from wet windows, rain inside the door cavity. Or is it to prevent water entering the vehicle? I understand the inside door cavity to be considered a wet cavity. Looking for an elegant solution. Thank you in advance for the help.