Jason C

I’m also considering Dynamat, however it seems a little over priced and I’m not a fan of their logo being plastered everywhere on the material. Yes, I understand it’s hidden behind panels or carpet, but have a preference for plain black. After some research I found a local product (sorry think shipping to UK would be pricey), in plain black for a little cheaper. Long story short, try looking around for alternatives, there is another product made in Australia. I suspect many companies are outsourcing production and applying their brand to a very similar butyl product. I plain to be strategic in application, some people cover entire floor pans, which is not required for an effective deadening barrier. I also don’t want it in any locations that cannot be adhered perfectly, or where I suspect water ingress could occur over time between the butyl and the steel. It’s hard to remove too. I would love to apply to the internal door panels, but unfortunately my car has uneven rust protection - hard to apply smoothly. @Ben Hutchings Think it’s a fantastic idea to apply a butyl product to the boot surface in a GT6, to improve cabin acoustics, by dulling the reverb from the sheet metal. If you have a carpet, mat or similar, have you thought to sew an acoustic barrier beneath? This will also dull another frequency of noise. Have you done the doors? The methods modern cars use to reduce road noise is quite fascinating. It’s becoming a big topic as cars move to electric, more cabin noise is apparent. BMW etc use different foams to absorb different frequencies and mics to discover sounds, rubber to isolate noisey components etc. Wheel arch material to reduce tyre noise etc. A bit far for a classic car, but I think good science and techniques for ideas. Cost effective methods for reducing cabin noise is always a win for the driving experience.

Lovely work! Just purchased a a similar stainless one from Canley’s, although not with the stainless bjango bolt - which is great idea!

@Rutty The spot lights look great, form a nice line with the Vitesse headlights, compliment the car very nicely!

Hi Roger, Overdrive sounds fantastic, an exciting improvement to the driving experience. Driving through the forrest in a TR4A sounds magic! best, Jason

Thanks @RobPearce yes, my Mk1 Vitesse fuel pipe is 1/4" inch all the way.

Thanks @yorkshire_spam, appreciate your help. I look to be set with the brand of fuel hose. Fingers crossed someone knows how to route the pipe work.

Thanks Sam, sorry by 5/16" bore – some of the Vitesse fuel line a different dimension? Did you use stainless hose clamps?

I too am a OD virgin, this thread makes for great reading. In the future I would like to fit an OD to my Vitesse, namely for a fifth gear cruising on the open road. I like the idea of the OD with the stalk switch, but wonder “what if I leave OD engaged” – does the driver know it’s engaged by the feel, and or the rev counter? Thought a light on the dash may have been useful, but as I haven’t driven an OD before, what do I know, would be great to hear peoples thoughts... Does an overdrive make for a more rewarding driving experience? I have heard people say the overdrive is better than a traditional 5 speed and great for winding roads.

Thanks for the recommendation Rutty! Barricade looks to be a good product. Did you fit the 6.3mm on 1/4" pipe? Tight fit, or clamp? Im planning to mushroom the ends of the steel fuel pipe. By the way, love the additional spotlights on your car – looks superb! Do you have any photos online, would love to see it.

Glad to hear! Did you opt for the fuel injected variety? Also, did you the 6.3mm, find it a good tight fit on the pipework? https://www.gatesaustralia.com.au/~/media/files/gates-au/automotive/brochures/cooling-system-and-hose-products/gates-fuel-hose-flyer--june-2018.pdf

Hi folks! Some photos of my current Vitesse fuel-line, please bear with me as they are partially disassembled. I‘ve tried to mark the photo of the rear in yellow, where I think the fuel-line may travel. Perhaps the pipe exits beneath the boot, bends at 90º to hug beneath the floorpan, turns downwards 90º to centre with the chassis, then turns left and travels along the chassis to join at a rubber connector between the main fuel-line. Not sure how this would have clipped in place originally though? I see only one small hole, near the end of the boot outrigger (which seems the wrong direction) and no other holes, bar the large one above the tow ring. Perhaps it would have clipped to the brake lines? Added a photo of the engine bay fuel-line. The rubber hose comes from under the chassis holes to meet the fuel filter. Of curiosity, I have an unused clip on the engine bay metal cowl, (highlighted with the yellow box) – anyone know what should be contained within this? Don’t think it’s related to fuel or brake hoses, as seems too high up. But thought Id mention. If anyone has a Vitesse, or Herald (assume would be the same) with the original fuel-line configuration and wouldn’t mind clambering beneath the car to snap a few photos – that would be fantastic. Or can point me to some reference photos. Ideally, I would like to create a good match. Thanks all, appreciate your help.

Hi Ben, thank you for the recommendation of the fuel hose and routing. The hose is labeled ‘Gates 4219G SAE 30R7 Fuel Line PCV/EEC 1/4" (6.3mm) 50 PSI (3.4 Bar) Made in Mexico‘. Has anyone had any experience with ‘Gates Barricade’ hose? It has a special barrier to reduce permeation. Comes in both a fuel injection and for carbureted cars. The fuel injection variety maybe an overkill for this application. Found on an MGB forum where the internal hose started to disintegrate and go through the fuel system, perhaps was a bad batch. Gates mentions Barricade (MPI), “Exceeds SAE J30R14T2 (except for kink resistance)” – kink resistance is interesting. Assume the hose does not link hard radius, would need to ensure an open loop when connecting the hose between the fuel tank and steel pipe that exits the boot.

From memory around 10% ethanol is added to fuel at a particular service station. But best to be on the safe side. Great points regarding permeability, reducing any smells is a good thing.

Hi Clive, thank you for your help! If the same steel pipe is used exiting from the tank, through the boot and then connecting to the outrigger – is there much flex between the car body and the chassis? Flex that could over time fracture the pipe? I guess there is a rubber grommet the steel pipe passes through the boot hole to allow for some movement. I’ve read the name of the game is to reduce the amount of rubber hose used in the system and obviously joins? And also that rubber hose can actually leak fumes through the material itself, which is interesting as its used inside the boot. The metal fuel line is the steel variety, perhaps the original feed from the tank. The Gates fuel hose should be genuine as I purchased from a reputable brake specialist. But one never knows these days, this particular Gates hose is made in Mexico. I asked about R9 hose at the time of purchase and they looked at me funny. Perhaps they don’t know what they’re doing – or New Zealand isn’t using the latest standard.I tried another fuel hose today, stamped 1/4 inch from a hydraulic shop – and still felt loose on the steel pipe. Its only slightly loose, but doesn't feel tight and larger internal diameter. I will have to scout around some more for R9. Thanks Clive

Hi there, a few questions with regards to a Triumph Vitesse, 2 Litre fuel line: Can anyone help guide me to the correct shape and routing for the fuel pipe as it exits the fuel tank, under the body to the chassis? I have removed and cleaned the fuel tank – the current fuel pipe had a nasty kink at the right angle, so I am looking to replace. On closer inspection, the current set-up doesn't look correct. The pipe hangs down under the boot floor pan, forms basically a right angle as it exists the boot floor, then connects to a fuel hose attached via zip ties to the chassis, before connecting to the steel fuel line at the first cross member. I suspect the previous owner cut the metal pipe shorter as it was damaged, and connected with hose. Although this is my first Triumph, I imagine the fuel line would hug the underfloor then connect with a short rubber section for movement, then connect to the main metal fuel line? Rather than dangling down which looks a little dodgy. I don’t see any remains of clips. I’ve checked the spare parts catalogue, which gives an idea of the shape – but I can not visualise on the car. 1. Wondering if someone could kindly share some pictures of the original fuel line routing? I will then try and closely replicate by bending a wire to later form the pipe work. 2. Has anyone come across any correct diameter fuel hose for classic cars? I have purchased some Gates 1/4 inch hose (which the steel fuel lines are on my car), and it feels too loose. The previous hose was much tighter, a different brand called "Grommet" – which I can no longer source. Are modern hoses a true 1/4 inch internal diameter? And also, should fuel line hoses be clamped, and flare the ends of the steel pipe? Clamps look to be a must with the new fuel hose. I have sourced original carb fuel line rubber, which is very tight to push on, which tells me perhaps the new fuel hose isn‘t imperial dimensions... 3. Could someone also share a picture of the fuel line as it emerges the chassis under the bonnet. I currently have a in-line fuel filter before the fuel pipe. Wondering how this originally looked, whether it floated there or had any brackets, or clips? 4. As the fuel hose exists through the reinforced last cross member before heading into the engine bay – did this cross member have any rubber grommets to protect the rubber fuel hose from potentially chaffing the chassis holes as it bends around into the engine bay? Please find a couple of photos, this is basically its current set-up, steel pipe at a right angle (I have temp rubber holding the pipe in place) – imagine a rubber hose going from this and zip tied to the chassis before connecting to the steel pipe. The car has the correct metal clips that hold the fuel and brakes lines in the central section. Thank you, appreciate any help, best from NZ.

Hi glang! Thanks for the tip, will source a few manuals online. :) 

Thanks Rob, appreciate your help. 

Both are correct. The early style Heralds (948, 1200 and 12/50) had the grill fixed to the chassis and radiator assembly. The Vitesse and 13/60 had the grill fixed to the bonnet. Thanks for the information Rob! By chance are there any resources (manuals?) that detail the Vitesse? Sometimes it’s tricky for a novice knowing how something should be as original. I’ve found photographs online useful, but often wonder if its period correct.

Both are correct. The early style Heralds (948, 1200 and 12/50) had the grill fixed to the chassis and radiator assembly. The Vitesse and 13/60 had the grill fixed to the bonnet. Thanks for the information Rob! By chance are there any resources (manuals?) that detail the Vitesse? Sometimes it’s tricky for a novice knowing how something should be as original. I’ve found photographs online useful, but often wonder if its period correct.

Hi all, Come across this beautifully restored 1965 Triumph Herald 1200 for sale in New Zealand. No connection to the owner or seller, simply admired the quality presentation.  https://bains.co.nz/product/1965-triumph-herald/ Curious, I have a 1968 Vitesse where the front grill is attached to the bonnet itself, this example shows brackets connecting the grill to the radiator assembly. Which is correct? Enjoy Jason        

Thanks Nick, this is really great information. And really interesting reading about your modifications on the Triumph Owners website. I was also reading somewhere about the diff and getting the gear ratio right, another thing I hadn't considered...

An update on my research. I also reached out to Quantum Mechanics they have an option of a GT6 version (both 4 speed and a version with OD), he mentioned the main advantage of the GT6 gearbox was the synchro in first gear. But I thought the Vitesse Mark 2/3 already had a 4 speed synchronised gearbox? With the Vitesse 1600 that was missing the synchro in first, maybe I'm incorrect.

Hi Nick, thank you for the detailed information and the link, fantastic! It appears the NZ company uses a gearbox from a Toyota Supra which I'm sure is more than up to the job. With your Toyota five speed conversion did you find it fits well inside the cabin, similar position and how about the shift ratio - better or close to the original? Curious if it looks and feels at home in the interior. Found it noticeably quieter than traditional Triumph box? How about gearing etc... Sorry about all the questions!

Hi Tony, thank you for the recommendation. May I ask, how did you find the quality of the reconditioned gearbox from Ian?

Hi Terry, thanks for reaching out! I'm in Te Awamutu (near Hamilton), finding someone nearby would be ideal, however willing to travel to get the job done well. Or could you supply a reconditioned gearbox or gearbox with OD to install up here?