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Drake

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  1. I'm not sure the original-spec millboard ones would be great for holding speakers securely, certainly old ones that are usually kinked or rotted and floppy with damp. Best to make your own as suggested above with some 3mm board. I did that for some speakers... covered with vinyl to match the interior they're strong and look good. It's an easy job if you have an original as a template but even without it's not a hard shape to measure up and mark out. You can buy the original style plastic clip fittings from the usual suppliers, use generic ones or simply us self tappers to fit them.
  2. Thanks for the reply. I'm doing my best to give my car a hard time as well. It's done more miles in the last 3 months since I bought it as it had managed in the previous decade, though it has never been off the road as far as I know. Not a car destined to be a garage queen, in any case. It's presently wearing a lower-half respray of best Somerset mud and having the integrity of my DIY hood replacement thoroughly tested - if it thinks it's going to be allowed to hide in the workshop until the Spring, it's got another think coming. I haven't introduced myself to the forum properly yet,  I will get around to it soon and post some pictures.
  3. Ah, I see, thanks. When researching my Herald purchase I found warnings about lubricating trunnions regularly on every buyer's guide or Triumph site but I assumed that if they were in good nick and correctly lubed then the links would be safe enough. I can see why one would want to remove a potential weakness (weak link?) but at the same time I have found in the past with other cars that new less predictable problems can be introduced while trying to work around the old ones with non-standard mods. I have also been down the road of swapping endless parts with lots of fettling and labour   to achieve surprisingly little for my efforts and have vowed to keep things simple from now on, but then I am no engineer. On the Herald I intended just to replace the vertical links (mine look sound but original) keep the trunnions oiled and leave it at that. I'll come back eating my words if the car ends up lying nose-down on a car park at some point...
  4. Sounds pretty involved to make this swap - what's the thinking behind it? Have you suffered frequent problems with the trunnions?
  5. Drake

    sport exhaust

    Assuming you have a 13/60: A herald convertible is noisy enough at speed as standard - with the hood up, it's like sitting inside a snare drum at 60 -  so I can appreciate that a noisy exhaust is a terrible idea for an 'upgrade'. Standard single-pipe systems are still freely available and not particularly costly, and I expect someone would buy your current system from you if you eBay-ed it. Rimmers sell a mild steel standard kit for £80 which is what my 13/60 has, fitted by the last owner. The sound at low speeds is the typical 70's 4-cylinder rasp from times gone by - a friendly kind of note  but still with more character and decibels than a modern car. At speed it's not quiet by any means but I don't find it gives me a headache or makes me angry / tired even over a long drive. Rimmers (and the other big sellers) also have a stainless version for £150 but I have no idea about the acoustics - I assume it would be markedly quieter than your 'sport' system but sometimes the stainless ones do seem to start quiet and get noisier with age, at least I have found that with other cars. I won't be going down that route myself for as long as mild steel systems are still available for Heralds as I prefer the original sound-track (and smiling looks rather than cross ones from pedestrians).
  6. Drake

    Engine identity

    No, that stands for 'Super Sport' - 150bhp, 140mph, special factory racing spec. We wish.
  7. Drake

    Hood folding

    Funnily enough I encountered a very lovely Vitesse 1600 at the weekend when I was out and about in the Somerset countryside with my dog in our 13/60 CV. I chatted about cars to the owner for a bit as you do and I remember noticing that his hood was a mohair replacement and that he'd folded it with the largest flap (the rear top roof section) pulled back and resting neatly on the rear panel rather than pushed down into the well as original spec. vinyl would be. After reading your post I now see why he folded it that way. There's not a lot of room for hood stowage, and I doubt you'd want to risk premature wear or damage to the rear quarter windows by forcing the heavy mohair out of sight, so perhaps his method is the way to go as it still allowed the front rail to lie almost flat and everything looking neat. I fitted a new hood myself in the Summer but chose vinyl - mainly for ease of fitting but I also thought that perhaps the heavy-duty and non-elastic mohair might be a little much for the roof frame's longevity. I am probably wrong on that count, but as with all non-standard mods there always seem to be issues to resolve or compromises whether it's hoods, wheels or engine swaps. As long as your hood fits nicely and looks good when up, which I'm sure it does, then I guess a slightly bulging fold is no big deal...
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