Mañana2

Hey Mike, welcome, my user name is new as well (but I've been around a bit). I'd start with the most simple inexpensive things first. Check integrity of all wires and connections in the ignition system, not just the high voltage, but all of them, to the coil, condenser etc. Check that the mechanical advance is not bound up.  Just gently twist the rotor it should move a few degrees, maybe 10 if I recall and then smoothly spring back to it's original position. As mentioned, check points gap and condition.  Rotor and Cap as well. If you have an old condenser around, try that one, I've gotten bogus new ones in the past that behaved much like you described. Check timing. Check that the choke is not bound up. (much less likely the cause though) I'm assuming you have decent fuel in there, not really old stuff? Good luck with it. Steve  

Jeremy, now is the perfect time to change it out.  That's exactly when I did mine yeeeeears ago and it's worked out great. Flushing with alcohol - many say to do this, but I just blew my lines out with compressed air.  I think the whole flush thing is over-stated, but if you really wanted to be keen I'm sure it doesn't hurt. Warranty - The manufacturers don't warranty it for only one reason, and I got this directly from them, they just haven't spent the money to test with DOT 5.  They see no reason it should cause any issues, but they just haven't tested it. Spongy Pedal - I run Autocross about once a month in the summer and any increased sponginess was not noticed by this foot.  Well, except when I did my engine swap and the header ended up a little closer to the brake line than I hoped.  That did a great job of softening the pedal. :)  Interestingly though, once it cooled it was back to normal without even a bleeding. Bench Bleeding - I bench my MC while on the car and invariably fluid gets spilled.  Nice that it doesn't peal the paint. Good luck whichever way you go.