dusz

Just wondered if anyone has experience of changing from the usual DOT4 hygroscopic brake fluid to the DOT5 non-hygroscopic silicone brake fluid. On a car that will not be used often is it beneficial changing to DOT5? I will be changing the flexible hoses, rear cylinders and rebuilding the front callipers maybe even rebuilding the master cylinder, likewise the clutch system. However the brake lines are cunifer so will not be changed. What is the best way to avoid contamination? Thanks for any advice.

Found another issue last night, the sidelights would not come on in the first position of the light switch. Son dzmarc came home this afternoon. Took out the switch, took it apart, cleaned up the contacts and rotated the slider by 180 deg so that a less worn part was being used. Result, lights work correctly. Next we found another light switch under the dash which did not appear to function. Found out that the circuit was for the electric radiator fan. Took that switch apart, it was much cleaner inside than the other, but still tarnished. Switch reassembled and now working. We can now switch the fan on and off, so no longer have to have it running continuously. Last the horn. Eventually,  tried touching an earth from the steering wheel to a good earth. Result, the horn works when it should, both wits the ignition off and on. It appears that whilst the rack is earthed the column does not maintain continuity most probably because of the lower coupling. Temporary fix was to clean up the column a few inches down from where it passes through the bulkhead in the engine compartment. Used a jubilee clip to attach a length of cable from this point to an earth point on the body. The cable is long enough to allow for the number of turns on the steering. Will need a more permanent fix, maybe a length of cable bridging the flexible coupling but will need to get suitably sized ring connectors. So its MoT time tomorrow.

This is happening on a Spitfire 1500 1979 model. With the ignition off and the ignition key out the horn works. With the key in, and without turning on the ignition, the horn works. With the ignition on the horn does not work, nor does it work when the ignition is turned off. The horn only works again when the ignition key is removed. What I believe is the horn relay is a standard 4 terminal relay. It does not look like the 3 terminal relay shown in the Haynes manual. The loom looks to be standard with no new wires added. The hazard lights and the headlamp flasher work with the key out, key in, and also with the ignition turned on. The car has recently had the headlamp dip/main beam/flasher switch replaced. Anybody have any ideas what the issue could be. The MoT is booked for Friday afternoon so need a quick fix.

I do not like the idea of the fuel pipe passing through the holes without suitable grommets. Vibration will cause the pipe to chaff aginst the unprotected edge and could result in a fuel leak. I know it is more work but if you are fitting an electric fuel pump has anyone considered running the fuel line down the right hand side of the car so you do not have to root it around the engine? I have to add that I do not know the GT6 and don't know if it would put the fuel line closer to the exhaust.

If there is no lip at the top of the bores I would be tempted to take the pistons out, hone the bores and fit a new no. 4 piston with new rings all round. Possibly look at the condition of the big end and crank bearings and journals. If these look OK I.E. no scoring and the journals look clean with no scoring and they measure up OK I would put back as is. Check no. 4 con rod for straighness/damage. Clean all the oil ways and use plenty of oil on the bearings when reassembling. If you want to blind ut up a bit, then clean and paint the block before it goes back in. Then enjoy running it in.

My experience of bleeding the slave cylinder without removing the tunnel cover is that it is a bleeding difficult job as there is hardly any room to get a spanner on to the bleed nipple and to then be able to undo it and keep the bleed pipe fitted as there is no space between the gearbox, slave cylinder and chassis rail. We managed it in the end. We did not try removing the tunnel cover.

I assume that the carbs are not mounted directly to the inlet manifold but have the thermal spacers fitted, as well as the exhaust heat shield. Also, look to see how the fuel pipe is routed and make sure that it is not near any sources of heat.

I had a set of replacement keys cut by my local locksmith and they work fine. It must be cheaper to get another key cut rather than replacing all the locks.

There should be at least one spiral (roll) pin in one of the blind holes that locates into the plastic collar on the steering column. You will need to measure the diameter of the hole and also determine how long the pin needs to be, they can always be cut down to suit.

On the Volvo To instalation there may not be any bonnet mods but the bulkhead is seriously modified.

Check also for the clips that hold the sliding slave cylinders to the back plate. If the cylinder is not held properly then it can make a knocking noise under braking. It can also have a tendency to lock the brake up if they are missing. Hope you find what the issue is. When you do find it pleas repost so that we can all be informed.

Many thanks for the replies. Good to know that they are available without having to buy a slave cylinder. Should the plate and spring be lubricated with copper grease or something else?

Hi My son has a 1500 Spitfire. When I was driving it round Spa at the end of May it made a slight clunking noise from the rear when braking and then started to pull guide strongly to the left if I really hauled on the brakes. Tonight I have removed the nearside rear drum. There is no brake fluid contamination on the shoes but they do look to be near their wear limit. Not being used to Triumph rear brakes I was surprised to see in the Haynes manual that the slave cylinder is a single piston and that it slides relative to the back plate and is held in place by a retaining plate and a spring plate. All other cars I have worked on have had a fixed slave cylinder with two pistons. Looking at the back plate neither of these plates are present. Could this be the cause of the slight clunk and brake lock up? We will be replacing the brake shoes anyway but does anyone know if the retaining plates and spring plates are available separately without having to purchase a slave cylinder? Thanks for any advice.

I  thought that breakers were not allowed  to  sell seat belts as if the car had been involved in an accident then they may be damaged or if modern ones then the pretensioner will have been activated. If it was me I would want to know that the seat belt would be fit for purpose. Personally I prefer inertia reel belts particularly if there is more than one driver/passenger as the they automatically adjust rather than having to adjust it manually.  If it was too big then there is the temptation to leave as is and have a slack belt which will then not perform correctly if you were to have to rely on it. Hope you get it sorted.

It looks like the press tool needs refurbishing as it is tearing at the metal. All the flash could break off and fall into the sump, bad, bad bad situation.  If you do Dremel the flash off don't forget to radius the edges to prevent any stress raisers on the arm itself or by the arm on the cam lobe. Jeremy