MichelvdM

Hello all, I have an oil temperature gauge in my Spitfire where the sensor is built in the drain plug in the oil sump. The temperature gauge is not indicating more than 70 degrees C. Is this a normal temperature? It also takes quite some time before this temperature is reached (20+ km). I am wondering if the location of the sensor is the best. Anyone any idea? Thanks and regards, Michel

Hi Wim, thanks for the quick response. Indeed, I also had the assumption those holes are there for a reason   Unfortunately the hub has been delivered with pins inserted. Best regards, Michel

Gentlemen, I have a Mountney steering wheel on my late 1500 Spitfire. During restoration I have taken the steering column apart and replaced all parts that were not in good shape. Also the indicator switch assembly. The car is finished, but I noticed that the indicator switch is not returning to it's rest position. Maybe I am missing some parts, or the whole column needs to be adjusted? Can someone help me with this question? Thanks and regards, Michel van den Maagdenberg

Hu Guys, Anyone who has a suggestion what to check if the Indicator Switch (Spitfire 1500, 1979) doesn't cancel? Thanks, Michel

Hi Guys, I am getting different answers on the oil level in the HS4 carbs. Can someone pls explain what the correct level is? What happens if there is too much oil? Will it end up in the combustion chamber? Thanks, Michel

Hi guys, I am stripping down my engine for a bore/hone job. While doing so I want to remove all bolts and setscrews in the oil channel right above the oil filter. In the front and the rear there are two setscrews which seem vey tight. Any experience in the group to loosen them? Also, there seems to be a special bolt in the oil filter area. I assume this also need to be removed?

Hi guys, Took my 1500 engine apart that already has +40 oversized pistons. First the mechanic will check if honing the bores is adequate, else I am considering boring up to fit +60 oversized pistons. Looking at the small rim between the bores already I am not feeling too thrilled to increase the bore. Therefore, is there any experience or advice in fitting +60 pistons in a (recessed bore) 1500 engine? Thanks, Michel

Hi Shaun, Thanks for thinking with me. This is the only way to come to a solution. I just measured my valve OD's and valve guide ID's and I have double check but these all seem to be within the tolerance. While doing this is also noticed that the inlet ports are oily,pls see picture. This shouldn't be the case. This means that oil is being sucked through the valve clearance. I indeed installed the special head gasket. I need to continue and remove the engine from the car and remove the pistons. I am planning to buy new rings and have the bores honed once more. I don't think I have another choice... ??) 4058 wrote:When you fit the rings, have the gaps offset to each other, (I.e. not all in a line) Also you say it is a recessed block, was the correct recessed gasket used? (there are two different ones, a recessed and non recessed) just a thought. That's a lot of oil being burnt, if the engine has been sat for a while, the rings could stick in the piston, but If it was recently built, I would not suspect that. You say you can see the honing marks, that is good, but it may be good to try measuring the ring gap, place a ring in the bore and set it square with the piston (up turned and pushing it in the bore from above, a little way in, then remove, and it will leave the piston square, and a good way into the bore) then measure the gap with feeler gauge comparing to the technical specification for that engine. If after they built it, and it has stood for a while, perhaps the oil used during build up has drained away from the rings, and when it was run it was "dry" for a while, therefore prematurely wearing the rings. (I'm just trying to throw ideas at you) I would suspect rings, as you say it smokes alot and the oil goes black. Hope this helps, and not scare you!  ;)

Hi Shawn Quite a story. When I started restoring the car (7,5 years ago) I knew that the engine had been revised earlier and very few km's have been done after that. While dismantling the engine I saw that the pistons still looked quite shiny. Also the bores looked very smooth, even still showing the hone marks. That made me thinking that the engine didn't require much attention. I had the valves checked and the head and lower block flattened. Pistons were cleaned and been put back in. Now that the restoration is finished and I was making the first km's I noticed quite some smoke (blue) coming from the exhaust. I also noticed the oil level lowering from Max to Min after 60 km's and turning black. On accelerating and especially driving away after waiting for a traffic light gave quite some smoke. Also on idling too. I decided to check the compression this and seemed low (8,4 – 8,7 Bar range) what made me decide to strip the engine (real tough decision :'()to find the cause. Besides leakage through the valves and piston rings, also the head gasket could be to blame for taking oil. As you probably now the 1500 engines have recessed cylinder bores. The block itself also has been flattened what means that the depth of the recessed bore has become less and I am wondering if there could be a leak between the bore and the oil channels. If I am looking at the metal rings in the old gasket you can see this has been nicely compressed.  I haven’t noticed any external head gasket leakage and didn’t see any cooling fluid in the oil. Any suggestion is very welcome. I already learned that removing pistons and turning the pistons rings and then put back has not been the smartest decision... 4058 wrote:I agree with R.S. don't use fuel for the test, use oil. While the head is off check the side movement in the valve stems! (before removing the valve spring do a valve leak test, use fuel for that! As you looking for the slightest leak) Turn the head over, get it level (two blocks of wood is good) then poor some fuel into the combustion chamber and see if it leak out. Is it a recon/rebuilt head? Then it should be ok, if not the valves may need lapping in. When you say it used oil, was it smoking? Usually if she smokes it's a sign that the rings are worn, if it just puffs when you declutch, it points to worn valve stems. Have you not got a leak on the engine? A failing gasket or something? When it's parked do you see a puddle of oil?

Hi Guys, My Spitfire 1500 is burning quite some oil. I have lifted the head and while looking at the bores and the pistons I am wondering what could be wrong. I have measured around 8,5 bars compression and this seemed to be kind of low. As a test I have put some gasoline on top of the pistons and was quite suprised that it was gone on all of the pistons after a couple of minutes. I even heard the gasoline dripping in the sump. Is this a test a valid manner to see if there is a loss of compression? Thanks, Michel

Hi guys, The compression ratio of a Spitfire 1500 seems to be 9.0:1. I am not sure how to translate that to Bar. I am measuring 8,7 8,4 8,5 8,8 Bar. Does these values look OK? Thanks, Michel

All, I am not too good in electrics, so pls excuse me if I ask stupid questions.... :X :X My oil press light doesn't work. How can I test the oil press sensor? I am using a new type voltage stabilizer (CCVS1) with the Fuel, Oil temp and Cooling temp gauge connected. None of them seem to work. It seems like the output from the stabilizer is around 5 V wheras I thought it needed to be 10 V. Is there a difference in connecting all these gauges? Connections look identical. Thanks, Michel

7271 wrote: This is the info that I needed. Thanks a lot for your help Another question on this. I know there is a brown wire going to the light switch. Can I use this one to connect a wire to nr 30 of the relay? What if I also want to use a relay for the main lights? Can I take the brown wire and connect this one to number 30 connections of both relays. Also, I have a clock mounted in the dash. Can I also use the brown wire for this? Thanks, Michel

7271 wrote: This is the info that I needed. Thanks a lot for your help Another question on this. I know there is a brown wire going to the light switch. Can I use this one to connect a wire to nr 30 of the relay? What if I also want to use a relay for the main lights? Can I take the brown wire and connect this one to number 30 connections of both relays. Also, I have a clock mounted in the dash. Can I also use the brown wire for this? Thanks, Michel

michael_charlton wrote:First you require a relay Fit lamp and earth it take live/red or compatible from lamp  to number 87 terminal on the relay take a black /earth from number 85 terminal of the relay and earth suitably take a live from the battery or fuse box and feed to number 30 on the relay terminal take a compatible colour wire from the side lights live feed and take it to a toggle switch then from toggle to number 86 terminal on the relay and if a warning light type toggle ,earth the switch OK ? This is the info that I needed. Thanks a lot for your help