flag man
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Everything posted by flag man
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Thanks as ever for all your help. will get this sorted in the end and let you know.
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Thanks all for your help and advise. This looks like an insoluable problem, Rimmers tell me this model pump has to be fitted without the spacer. If the leaver arm is missing the cam I cant see any way to fix that, even If I did get it to run on the cam if it can slip off that easily it looks like a problem just waiting to happen again, Looks like the best option might be to ditch it and switch to an electric pump?
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Having fitted a new pump, I don't now get fuel through to carb's. Is there any way I could fit the pump so that it does not connect to the cam? Seams like the is only one position the pump can go in, have removed the spacer as instructed by the supplier.
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This probably looks very dim..........but can some one tell me if the brass / bronze runion thing should rotate easily on the upright thingy. and how do you replace them if required? told you it sounded a bit dim!
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Ahh could try that I have a hammer impact driver. thanks
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Thanks all, brakes option is out, calipers off as replacing all the old pipe work. have tried the wedging the whole thing solid with lumps of wood between the floor and the nuts, soon learned the pushing down on the nuts was far safer than the other way lifting the car up. Had hoped that there was a magic solution to this one. Looks like it's just a question of persiverance
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Really stuck on this one, I need to renovate the front suspension but I can't work out how to remove the splined hub. removed the wire wheel no problem, but obviously with no wheel / tyre resistance I can't remove the 4 nuts holding it on. I have tried locking the hub up with a lump of wood but so far have only succeded in lifting the front of the car of the axel stands. There must be a way..............?
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That's good enough for me, if it will protect a submarine.... sorry amphibious thingy it's going to be good enough for me! Thanks.
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That looks like what Im lookin for, thanks.
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Thanks Louis, this is for all the wings, have taken the all off so preping though a filthy job should be reasonably easy, will search web for epoxy anti chip stuff.
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Would appreiate any advise on painting my inner wheel arches. They are in reasonably good codition but they do have some surface rust. In good time I would eventually like to over paint the protective treatment in the body colour. All and any advise appreciated.
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You are quite right Danny B, I didn't see any notes from The Brothers either, but when I asked why the "wrong" pump had been sent it was all explained to me. Remove the spacer fit new studs and away you go. Problem now solved. But no doubt there will be others! :)
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Thanks Shaun I will try this, as thinking about it if it pumps fuel when I operate it manually there can't be an air leak? Quite what I will do if it isn't running on the cam is another thing.
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Thanks Nick I have the spacer block type (and the spacer). The last pump was the old AC type and I did snap the arm on that and still can't think how I managed to snap it off, but luckily both the pump and the snapped off bit of arm came out together. I am reasonably sure I ordered the right "bent arm" pump from the Brothers, and when I compared the two they looked much the same as far as the leaver is concerned. I like the air leak idea though checking sounds like a bit of a headache. I not sure what I can do if the leaver is missing the cam as obviously it sits on two studs with no room for adjustment. Tomorrow I will try tightening up all the pipe clips.
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Further to yesterdays post, thanks for all the replies. Got fuel up to the clear plastic fuel filter just before the carbs by carefully sucking, thank god no one was watching! Manually filled the float chamber and hey presto after a bit of heavy duty cranking she grumbled in to a form of life....briefly then gave up. So the electrickery bits are OK but the fuel pump wont pump mechanically, took it of the block and pumped it by hand and it works fine. Is it possible to fit a fuel pump wrongly? It's a new pump, could I have the wrong sort? What exactly drives the pump leaver? All or any answers appreciated.
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Ah now I like the clear tube idea so you can see what's coming....and when. Thank you Don't have a brother or a vacuum pump so can't try that one but thanks for the tip.
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Thanks Louis, not sure I fancy a mouthful of unleaded, but if push comes to shove..........
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Having just replaced the fuel pump on my 1500 Dolomite engined MK4 Spitfire I can't get fuel to pump to carbs, I have a plastic fuel filter between pump and carbs and it remains annoyingly dry. I know I have fuel up to the pump as I have taken of the fuel line and it flows fine. Should I prime it in some way?
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Funny how the price sort of escalates, your right basic price about £15.00 then add 20% VAT and P&P comes to just short of double! That's why I going to be very careful next time. Never done pictures on the forum but I will tomorrow. Thanks again.
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Hi Louis That sounds good to me, I will try turning the engine over 'till I can get the pump in without resistance. I assume I must have had the drive cam in the wrong place. Thanks for your help Its a MK 4 Spitfire............with a 1500 Dolomite engine!
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I really must learn to leave things alone. It would not start so noticing that the plastic in line fuel filter was under half full and not filling when I turned the engine over I thought I would have a look at the filter in the fuel pump, took it off cleaned it up and put it back.........but before I had the pump nice and tight against the spacer and block that horrible sound "tink", quick as a flash I knew I had over tightened. Sure enough carefully pulled off the pump and the leaver arm was broken (luckily both bits came out). Now I have a new one on the way but the question is how do I stop it happening again? Is it possible to put the pump in wrong?
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I am quite sure I have knocked a wire off| Trouble is now I don't know which wire I knocked off or where it came from, this particular Lucas switch has lots of (spare) spade connectors. You need a magnifying glass to read the numbers on the switch and in the Haynes Manual. I am reasonably sure I have got it right but still no joy, I get a reading on my multi meter on the input side of the multi connector block on the motor but nothing on the output side. It's a bit of a bu***r.
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Oh dear me again Fixed the ignition switch problem, transposed two leads now all is fine. So now the next problem the wipers don't work, I think it must be the switch, this is I think a two speed switch with an electric push button washer. I cant find an exact replacement on any of the normal suppliers web sites. I can just about make out the numbers on the back of the switch but the Haynes manuel wiring diagram is so small that I can't be sure which wires go where. does anyone have a clear diagram or any other suggestions. please.
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That's really helpful thankyou, going to take a bit of shoving about of pipes and wires but at least I can see which way up they go!
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Hello folks Just bought driver and passenger side "glove box / front parcel shelf" things, as my car did not have them when I bought it. But I have no idea how they fit or which way up they go, if any one has suggestions or pic.s I'd be very grateful. MK 4 Spit