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philheys100

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Everything posted by philheys100

  1. Hi, Have you fitted a new spring or refurbished the old one? It looks like a new spring to me, the reason for the imbalance is because the drivers side as more weight and settles first, it takes a long time and many miles before it all settles. You could try and loosen all the bolts on either side and roll out the car the difficult thing is how to re-torque the bolts without jacking the vehicle because jacking up the vehicle causes the vehicle to sag. Hope this helps
  2. Yes I agree if memory serves me right bulbs should be 5 watt, but my bet its still the flasher unit I had a similar problem. Good luck
  3. Hi My money is on the flasher unit, I have had several I would choose lucks type had this one in for about 12 months with no problems. Good luck
  4. Thanks guys I have looked at Moss no degree wheel only available in America, I have managed to find a dial indicator will this do the job? https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dial-.....07TE10-/120985547302 Also the piston stop is also difficult to get hold of, again empty in America the ones over here state for chain saws, strimmer etc. Anyone help! Thanks
  5. Thanks guys, Found this is it accurate? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MHO0D9VpsQs I am struggling to find a degree wheel most of them seem to be from America, I don't mind spending a bit more for a quality one and I believe bigger is better. Thanks
  6. Hi all, I have been running a previous thread called 'chain replacement' and under further inspection I also need to change the sprockets cam & crank, I am going need your help to do this. I understand that I need the following; Piston stop - my engine is in the car with the cylinder head on. Degree wheel - Dial indicator - Can anyone guide me were I can buy these from and step by step information on how to or even better videos. Many thanks Phil
  7. Thanks, I am going to give it a go myself, I have all summer!! I am going to start another thread called cam timing/chain replacement to keep with the correct theme. Thanks all
  8. Hi guys On further inspection I need to sprockets I have found a web page on how to set the timing on the cam. Will this do the job? https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s.....3730591.html%3famp=1 Thanks
  9. Sorry guys forgot to ask. I noticed that when fitting the crank wheel its a tight fit has anyone any tips so it goes on easier?? Thanks PS Even better any videos for fitting timing chains??
  10. Thanks, So if I remove the crank and cam gear with the old chain still intact (if that is possible?) and then change the chain on a work bench keeping everything inline and taut is that the best approach?? I have decided to keep the old tensioner because its the original and the bad press about the poor quality of the after market replacements, my original is smooth and has no marks. Whats the best technique to getting the cover back on and manoeuvring the tensioner into place? Thanks Phil
  11. Hi all, I am changing my timing chain and I have some questions. To change the chain only do I line up the scribe marks remove cam sprocket wrap around new chain and put back cam sprocket same way it came off? I don't have to remove crank sprocket? Should I change the oil thrower and how does it fit on? Should I change oil seal, the one installed looks good? Should I use gasket seal when putting cover back on? Please see picture....Do the marks I have roughly marked look right? Many thanks
  12. philheys100

    Seatbelts

    Hi all, I have some automatic seatbelts 3 point type, not sure what they are off but I bought them second hand, they are the ball type if car is not level the seatbelt jams on - you know the type? My problem is they keep jamming on I have had the plastic sides off and I can see how they work but its takes so many attempts to get them to free it would drive me mad! My questions are - 1. Is it possible to fix this type, bearing in mind there is not rust or anything visible I see wrong, I think they are just worn? 2. Is it possible to fit any type of automatic reel seatbelt from any car into a Spitfire mk4. 3. Or shoud I just buy new? Thanks Phil
  13. Hi all, I have made sepearte earths for all the lights on the rear, front headlights side lights working perfectly. Rear lights working however my footbrake does not return enough to turn off the brake light switch which I will sort out. I am still getting a fast flash on my indicators tried all the earths by attaching an earth wire directly to the battery and testing each earth to see it slows the flash - no change. The hunt goes on! Thanks
  14. Thanks all, I am having trouble with the indicators they are flashing quickly all the indicators are working I have tried changing the wires round on the flasher unit, still the same. Phil
  15. What about copper grease? Thanks guys Phil
  16. Hi all, Anyone got a good idea for improving the dround wires, I am having problems with the ground wires on my Spitfire I have cleaned them especially the earth strap and the part were they connect to the car. Is there a type of conductive grease or something I cold use to help? Thanks
  17. Hi all, New gaket fitted and she starts and runs like a dream. Thanks all Phil
  18. Hi all, It was a blown gasket between cyl 1 & 2, at bit annoying but it is cheaper than new valves or rings. Thanks for your help Phil 8)
  19. Thanks guys, The head was skimmed and converted by a engineer, I have to trust him because it was a job I was unable to do. I will check the valve clearances but I am guessing I will have to remove the head. To confirm I have a 73 spitfire would I need a recessed gasket, I am sure I have this fitted anyway? Would I need the head skimming again, its onky been a couple of months? Phil
  20. Hi, An engineer converted the head and checked the bottom end, I rebuilt everything and the head as been retorqued but only recently its not been running but I have had it started several times but certainly not 500 miles worth. Thanks
  21. Really! Its new, the all engine is a rebuild do you really think that it is head gasket failure? how will I be able to check this? Thanks
  22. Hi all, 1. I attached the breather pipe, still no different. 2. Checked the spark plugs, still no change 3. Vacumn leaks - none 4. Did the timing again, starts very well but still the miss-fire. 5. Compression test - Cy 4 = 150 PSI Cy 3 = 152 PSI CY 2 = 0 PSI CY 1 = 0 PSI I put a bit of oil down the spark plug holes and still 0 compression, does that mean the valves have gone? I am surprised and totally ruled this out because I got the head converted to unleaded it may be looking like he has not done the job right? Or could there be another explanation? Thanks Phil
  23. Thanks guys, Whats the best way to check for vacuum leaks? Phil
  24. Hi Guys, Can you give me your opinion on the sound of this engine, a friend of mine said it sounds like it is miss-firing? I thought it sounded well! Please use the link below. http://youtu.be/qIMf7ducEXM Thanks Phil
  25. philheys100

    bodywork

    Thanks for all the posts, I am putting everything back together before I start on the body work, I have put back the boot lid but there seems to be a play on the catch when I close it to, I moved the catch down as far as I canbut still there is a little play and when the car runs it rattles. Is there a technique to fitting boot lids? Phil
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