Amy Wade

The Dolly & TR6 have different wheel stud PCDs & are therefore not interchangeable. If you're after a different look to all the usual wheels seen on a Dolly, you could try looking at things like MGF alloys, I've not tried fitting them on anything but I've heard they are the correct PCD. You might need to do mods like spacers to get them to fit.

Hopefully someone else on the forum will be able to give more guidance. 

My comments are from personal experience, I used to do engine reconditioning back in the 90s & have fitted many a timesert. When carrying out the work, make sure the piston is at least half way down the bore & no valves are open & in the way of the tap as they are easily damaged (don't ask how I know...).

The kits are horrendously expensive and paying someone who already has the kit would be a much cheaper option. 

Should you choose to do it yourself, the kit comes with a stepped tap, the narrow portion is intended to follow the remains of the original thread, it then steps out to the diameter required for the insert, drilling and tapping as it goes. Make sure you keep the flutes packed with grease and keep backing it out, clearing the flutes of swarf & repacking with grease. The insert is driven in using a fluteless tap which expands the bottom of the insert, locking it in position forevermore whilst forming the thread in the bottom of the insert.

I hope this helps and good luck with the repair. 

Amy

Würth Timeserts are probably the best thing for carrying out the repair on your spark plug thread. It is possible to do it with the head fitted, I would strongly recommend you contact your local engine reconditioners & get them to do the job as you have to make sure the engine is at the correct position to avoid damage to the piston & valves, you will also need to be able to stop any swarf from drilling & tapping from going into the engine. 

3 minutes ago, Wendy Dawes said:

Is it an iPhone or  android,  not a clue with  android sorry but iPhone you just go on the the site, click the up arrow on the toolbar at bottom of the screen  scroll up the options, Then open in safari then save as a bookmark or add to home screen 

For Android, just tap the 3 dots top right of your screen and scroll down the menu and select add to home screen. 

29 minutes ago, TReslaV8 said:

Thanks Howard, sorry I didn’t get to PM you, it has been a hectic few days (on a voluntary job I have!) so didn’t get the chance until now. Anyway, your explanation makes a lot of sense. Presumably then I need to replace the wiper motor so the park control works properly and thus the wipers will switch off.  Once again big thanks. David

No need to replace the wiper motor, you can just replace the park switch, they're available on ebay for ~£15. Search for Lucas 14W wiper motor park switch. 

2 hours ago, DVD3500 said:

I am an American. According to most of you I am using the wrong terminology most of the time! 😄 

Most of the time? 🤔

Every time it went up & down the bore it would have been expanding and contracting as it went in & out of the worn area of the bore. 

The rebore & new pistons will fix it & it should be good for another 100k.

3 hours ago, Wendy Dawes said:

What do you think caused the piston ring to shatter like that Any , it’s been suggested overheating but I haven’t had an overheat issue with the car since I’ve owned it 

There's multiple reasons it could have been, reading the various posts by yourself and Darren, the most likely cause was just wear and tear, I suspect the ring groove would have been excessively worn & the ring was chattering in the piston.

It's great to see youngsters taking an interest in classic cars. Hopefully you'll find a suitable project car.

The clubs are here to help, we all share an interest in keeping the cars running & there's a wealth of knowledge you can tap into. 

16 hours ago, Wendy Dawes said:

Engine out   today and investigative surgery,  end shells just started to wear but more intriguing was finding that a piston ring had broken on  piston No. 3 and had erupted through the side of the piston   Explains the metal deposit on the piston crown 

It's good to find the fault & know the crank is fine. A rebore and matching pistons will get the bottom end sorted. 

You'll be back behind the wheel in no time. 😊

I'm sure the quality won't jump up...

I personally wouldn't bother with them, as DVD3500 says, they can be a **** to remove & 4 wheel nuts give much better clamping force than a couple of little screws. 

46 minutes ago, Wendy Dawes said:

That would make sense Amy I could see that they were very very corroded through the ports thanks for that xx 

I noticed from one of your posts you've already got the guides so that will be sorted during the rebuild. 

Good luck with the rebuild. 

I've seen metallic fragments bedded into piston crowns before, one of the most common sources is the valve guides breaking up.

It was good to catch up. Happy birthday @Wendy Dawes.

I hope everyone enjoyed the brownies 😊

Signed 😊

4 minutes ago, 65redspit said:

Not sure I’d want my Aladdin’s cave plastered all over C4 for the next few years…

And repeated on Quest for a decade...

I have just seen this on the book of faces, I'm sure there's plenty of people in Club Triumph who could have suitable sheds/garages/workshops...

On 02/03/2024 at 07:52, mikeyb said:

The midget looks tasty too.

Are you allowed to say things like that on this forum?

The wiring colours were done to BS-AU7, there was a later revision BS-AU7a which was introduced just after Triumphs stopped being produced. As for wire gauges, you'll have to calculate current draw/voltage drops for your circuits. 

BritishWiringColours-BS-AU7.pdf

31 minutes ago, Velocita Rosso said:

Well...I watched that...and I must have blinked a few times....missing out on  few things.........

That show (and Salvage hunters classic cars) had Paul Brackley, the same 'technical expert' as Wheeler dealers...

As far as I can make out the stars of the show do very little work on the vehicles, they're worked on by a team led by Paul Brackley off camera. 

1 hour ago, Wendy Dawes said:

Thanks Amy you’re a good mate 👍

Glad to be of service 😊

Hi Wendy, these characters managed it...

https://youtu.be/i0kHzOmywTk?feature=shared

7 hours ago, James Hill-Lonergan said:

I have a mk3 Spitfire and like many the front looks too high. I had the same problem a few years ago with a 1500. I managed to find new absorbers with a slightly lower spring seat that made a big difference to the gap between the wheel arch and the wheel. Anyone here had the same problem and managed to find these elusive shock absorbers?

Is your back end sitting low? When the rubber buttons at the ends of the rear spring wear, it causes the back to sut low & front to come up. There's a chap on Facebook who has harder wearing buttons made & he sells them through the Triumph Spitfire Owners Facebook page. 

Looks good 👍