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Amy Wade

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Posts posted by Amy Wade

    Tr7 cam followers

    in Engine

    Posted

    1 hour ago, glang said:

    But surface hardened only?

    If they're OEM, they're hard all the way through, when I was in the trade doing engine reconditioning we would frequently load up the magnetic chuck with shims & send them through the surface grinder. That was last century, the modern ones are probably made out of soft chinesium & could well be the problem. 

    • Like 1

    So, why do we have a Club website,Forum etc?

    in Triumph Chat

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Velocita Rosso said:

    My comment has a hint of sarcasm, as there seems to be more interest in Facebook , and people going off at a tangent ,not thinking about using the CT site

    The previous posting was about North Yorks area not having any attendance...and then another member from a different area pointing out a Facebook post about a change in venue etc. Surely the CT site should have been updated 

    For events, especially ones closed to just CT members should only be updated here, FB is not the place for organising CT events. 

    FB has its place for chat etc. but if it's relevant to organising events surely this forum should be the only place. 

    P.S. I've jotted this down on a postcard but I'm still waiting for the address to send it. 😉

    • Like 1

    seats

    in Body

    Posted

    If in the US, there are a couple of specialist breakers out there, as this forum tends to be mainly UK, their best bet would probably be posting on the Triumph Spitfire owners Facebook group.

    Lead-Free Petrol Additives

    in Engine

    Posted

    On 15/11/2023 at 07:56, thescrapman said:

    JLR, the only Triumph engines I have heard having issues (and experienced) with VSR is the MK1 2 litre engines.

    not sure why.

    That's good to know, I'm eying up a Mk1 2000 that's been parked up in a barn for a considerable amount of time, I guess it's something I will need to cost into it.

    • Like 1

    seats

    in Body

    Posted · Edited by Amy Wade

    9 hours ago, jfspitfire said:

    My 1972 Triumph Spitfire was stolen and when I got it back the seats were missing. What are some seats that will fit since I can't find or afford the originals ?

    Will your insurance not pay out? As @yorkshire_spam says, try the specialist breakers such as Spitfire Graveyard. If you track some down, they will probably need retrimming. Another option would be to try BB Classics, they do quite a lot of retro seats, make sure you tell them they're for a Spitfire, they need to be narrow enough to clear the hood frame.

    • Like 1

    Triumph 1500 Engine rebuild

    in Engine

    Posted

    2 minutes ago, yorkshire_spam said:

    In general I agree - but here's the thing that tipped me over the edge in my Spitfire 1500 engine build. The rods I had were in questionable condition - so replacing them seemed sensible. At the time I could get a maxspeeding H beam set for £175, but replacement 146454 Triumph rods were about £70 each and only available to order, not off the shelf. So it was cheaper to use the "upgrade" than replace like for like. 
    On getting them I was very pleased and they are significantly lighter than my originals.

    I can understand in your situation however if the originals are in serviceable condition, I think it would be spending for the sake of not wanting the money in your bank account.

    Triumph 1500 Engine rebuild

    in Engine

    Posted

    9 minutes ago, Paul B said:

    Hi i have a spare 1500 engine that i am looking to rebuild over the winter. I have already collected quite a few parts to put into it. Have already got a modified engine presently in my Spitfire.

    Has anyone have experience of using "Maxpeeding" steel rods, have seem advertised. Seem a bit cheap to be true. Although some good reviews. Any advice appreciated.

     

    I would question the need for upgraded con rods, the 1500 is a big bearing engine and doesn't like high revs, personally, I wouldn't bother, the crank flexes too much, if you want to make an engine which would benefit from internals like that, start with an FD engine from a Mk3 Spitfire, it's a better engine for high revs. The 1500 is a lazier but higher torque engine.

    Just saying Hi

    in Triumph Chat

    Posted

    3 minutes ago, Wendy Dawes said:

    Me too, old age etc,  prefer warm dry modern car this time of year lol 😊

    I prefer the comfort of a modern but you can't beat the experience of driving a classic. 

    • Like 1

    Lead-Free Petrol Additives

    in Engine

    Posted

    A lot would depend on how you're using your car & how many miles you'll be doing every year. The lead in leaded petrol acted as a lubricant, especially for between exhaust valves and seats. Over the years the valves would have gained a certain amount of ongoing protection from the lead and will continue to provide some protection going forward, any damage caused by not running a lead substitute will be seen by the need to adjust the valve clearances more than expected. As the engine will probably need a full rebuild before it gets to 100K, my personal opinion is to not bother with the lead substitute, you'll get hardened seats & all the valves done when you rebuild.  If the engine has been rebuilt in the last decade or so, I would be surprised if the previous builder hadn't had the seats done as the cost is negligible when paying for the whole engine being done. 

    With regard to the ethanol in modern petrol, you should be looking to replace all your hoses with R9 hoses & replacing things like your petrol pump diaphragm with a suitable replacement. Don't swap out your working old pump for a brand new one, most of the modern ones are not fit for purpose. I done away with my mechanical pump & have a Hucco electric pump instead. 

    These are my personal opinions, others may advise differently, your best bet is to go with what you're comfortable with. 

    Gaskets

    in Engine

    Posted

    They have a shoulder on the top & expand at the bottom. 

    Here's their promotional video 

    the spark plug ones come with a stepped tap that uses the remains of the original thread as a guide to ensure the insert will be perfectly in line with where it should be.

    Gaskets

    in Engine

    Posted

    20 minutes ago, glang said:

    Certainly you dont want the tang of a helicoil falling inside when you finish and snap it off! However a small vacuum cleaner modified with a flexible piece of plastic hose taped on the end could be used to suck out any debris in the combustion chamber...

    If you're using a Helicoil (Personally I would never use one for a spark plug thread) break the tang off with pliers. 

    Gaskets

    in Engine

    Posted

    There's no need to take the head off to repair the spark plug thread, when I was doing engine reconditioning as my day job I would just have the engine positioned so the piston is down the bore enough to be safe and the valves are closed. Keep plenty of grease packed into the flutes of the tap and the swarf will stick to it.

    I  personally wouldn't use a Helicoil, my choice would be a Würth Time Sert, the kits are expensive & I'd suggest seeing if your engine reconditioner has them.

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