barrymknight
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Well thanks as always for the advice. I ended up tying the diff to a trolley jack! The only way i could think to overcome the annoying tipping/falling offpoint! No amout of jacking helped move the rear mounts though. Even when I put the jack right under the rear mounts. It just jacked the car up and off of the axle stands! That was even after stretching open the brackets! In the end it's was increasingly larger hammers that did the job! Hammers increasing in size as the frustration grew! Definitely not a job I'll look forward to doing again. Now feeling battered and bruised. But also pleased with myself for another job done/lesson learnt. Barry
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Hi all, I have managed to remove the diff on my MKIV Spit, extract the broken bolts (shocked how well it worked) and replaced the bushes (rear bushes were a nightmare). Anyway, I am now putting the diff back in. Have managed to get front mounted but really struggling to get the back any where near the bolt holes. It seems tightly wedged but still needs to go up a good half inch. Wonder if anyone has any tips. As a side note, I'd just like to say that when I bought the car almost 2 years ago I had never even changed a wheel on a car. It's a pleasure to work on and learn on and the people on this forum give fantastic advice and the reassurance that nothing is impossible. So just a big thanks really! Barry
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Hi all. Looking for some advice (as usual). I am in the process of removing my diff (need to drill out some broken oil seal retainer bolts). I hoped to do this without removing the exhaust but seems I can get the diff off with the exhaust on. Sure this is a stupid basic question but how do I remove the exhaust? Thanks Barry
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I had a similar issue but horn only stuck on when I turned right! The purple wire from the horn push to the loom had broken and was earthing on the steering column when I turned. The fact that you can hear the relay clicking would suggest that the relay is working to me. Barry
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smithy wrote:Looks nice Barry, well done. Here is using the IMG codes to post it. If you want to see how just use "quote" on this post and look at how it's arranged. ;) Thanks smithy
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Good plan Alex & thanks for all the help. Here is a picture after my first drive for about three weeks! http://i1242.photobucket.com/albums/gg527/barrymknight/334faa4f.jpg Barry
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Well I just want to thank everyone for of their help, advice, time and patience. I know have a beautifully running spitfire. Never idled to well and doesn't miss a beat. I'm not sure what finally did it because I changed the coil, leads, plugs and dizzy cap!!! It then started first time. Just need to keep fingers crossed for MOT on Tuesday now. Thanks again everyone. Barry
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I have tried a bulb on the - of coil. when cranked it dims slightly but certainly doesn't flash off and on. I have replaced the rotor arm but have spares so will try that too.
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When I say the output of the coil, I mean with the ht lead in the coil, taking the other end out of the distributor cap and measuring from that end..
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Hi Alex, I think so, yes. Barry
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Thanks chaps. I have measured the voltage under cranking and this reads about 9.5v so I think the 12v feed supply seems ok? Barry
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Sorry to start a new thread but my previous Accuspark thread no longer seems to be the issue, it is more about the coil now. Having taken the 12v feed from the fusebox to the coil, I get a reading of 12v at the coil + and - with the ignition on and 1.5 ohms of resistance. Does this mean I have bypassed the ballast wire? If so, do I need a 12v 3ohms coil?? I have measure 12v at the king lead with ignition on (and got a decent shock from it) but just no spark. Not sparking at all. Any help or advice?? Thanks, Barry
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Hi all, following on from my earlier post about fitting an accuspark unit, I now believe I need to wire it to 'the live side of the fuse box but not through a fuse'. Could anyone please tell me how I do this and what it means!! Sorry, getting really frustrated at being so clueless and having a non running car! Thanks, Barry
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Thanks chaps. Sorry about picture format stuff. At my young age I should be more IT literate! The grain of the wood was pure luck. After two days of sanding to get through the lacquer I took my eye off the ball and before I knew it I had sanded through the vaneer in places!! Big panic but then decided, as no going back, sand through the vaneer completely! Low and behold, I little sanding below the vaneer and this grain started to appear! Phew!
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So plucked up the courage to fit my new carpets and attack the dashboard at the weekend and now all completed! Molded carpet was so much easier to fit than I expected and really pleased with the results. Sanded the dashboard right back, stained and lots of coats of plastic spray stuff to protect it, new shiny bezels and countless cuts scratches and bruises from head to toe!