Sam C
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Everything posted by Sam C
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Just a quick message to say I fixed it and thanks for your help Gentlemen. I changed the alternator and sorted some incorrect wiring around the ignition switch. All fixed and working perfectly. I really apprecaite he help, as always. Cheers Sam
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Thanks for your help gents. The good news is the alternator is charging the battery. The bad news is there's somdthing wrong with my wiring, or alternator. So this is the symptom: - no keys in ignition: red light on - keys in ignition abd turned first click: red light off - engine running: red light on and brighter What do people think this could be? My guesses are: (A) alternator is permanently charging the battery (i.e. The thing that stops it from doing so when battery is fully charged is bust) OR (B) wiring is sort of 'the wrong way round' somewhere around the steering column so the switch at the key is doing the reverse of what it should in relation to the alternator (i.e. It's 'off when it's meant tobe on and on when ir's meant to be off') But as you can probably tell, i have no idea what i'm talking about. So all opinions gratefully received!! Cheers Sam
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This information will be helpful: Thank you. There is something wrong with the wiring because the red light is always on no matter what's going on (including taking the keys out of the ignition)! So something's not wired right! Obviously once the alternator is completely unplugged the light is not on. Weirdly I've never noticed this before and the car has just come back from garage from hell with a whole range of broken things (they really didn't know what they were doing: door broken, HT leads crossed, completely cocked up the CAM belt change on wife's car). That whole experience is another story - in the mean time I'm just goting to try to work out what on earth is going on with the alternator. Forgive my stupid question, but when you say 'do the same with the output on one of the large terminals' do you mean 'put the negative (black) needle from the multimeter on the negative battery terminal and the positive (red) needle on the output from the alternator' and then just see if it's pushing out something like 14v when the engine is running? Also: is there any way to then work out of the available wires that I have, which ought to be going where? Many thanks and apologies for the daft questions. Sam
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Gents (and ladies): I hope you can help, you generally do. I have a 'high power alternator' that I bought off e-bay some time ago and is fitted to my GT6. At a recent MOT the garage said it's not charging the battery. It could have always been doing this and I'd not have noticed because I do so few miles each year and charge up the battery every so often from a battery charger anyway. There is every possibility that this is due to my poor fitting since when I took the old alternator off (which I've ditched) there were three plugs to attach, but on the new alternator there are two (technically there are three spades but two of them are attached together). The questions are: (a) How do I test the alternator, without it being plugged in, to check that it is creating a charge? (b) If it is creating a charge, what should it be kicking out and at what revs? (c) How do I then tell which way round / what wires to use to attach to the spades on the alternator? (d) How do I tell if the alternator is stopping charging when it should (I assume the alternator must stop after a bit otherwise it would be constantly charging the battery, even when fully charged, which I assume can't be good for it). All help gratefully received, as always! Cheers Sam
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Thanks all My very rough plan of attack, given that MOT is due in two months anyway, is: - assume no real damage has been done to diff since no strange noises are coming from it. They all seem to be coming from other places! Please let me know though if there's anything other than strange noises I can check for, without taking the diff out. - look for this potentially blocked breather (I've poked around and looked in the Haynes and Workshop Manual for diagrams but can't work out where it is - do I need to go in from the access hatch thing in the boot where the leaf spring is bolted on?) - given that I know I topped up the diff oil about 3 years ago, and have done less than about 5000 miles since then (and the leaks could have arisen at any time during that point), I'm simply going to drain the oil and see how much comes out. Book says there ought to be a pint in there. If very little comes out, relative to what's meant to be in there, I'm going to accept that I've got to take the diff out and check all seals before the car is driven again. If quite a lot was still in there then I'll just top up until MOT is passed - and tackle all necessary jobs in one go after that point. I'm sure I'll get told off for this but taking a diff out, when there's not actually that much left of summer and MOT is round the corner, seems like a recipe for no car for too long for me. The winter is for jobs like that! Cheers
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Hi all Some strange vibration and creaking noises (stranger than normal) have prompted me to get the car up on axle stands for a root around. I was hoping something as innocuous as a loose exhause might be the issue. However, the first thing I've noticed is that my diff is leaking quite a lot of oil. Fortunately it's [i] still leaking [i] which I'm hoping means there's sitll enough oil in there to protect things. However, I'm now worried that something might be fundamentally wrong with the diff. I will try to work out where exactly the leak is coming from, in the hope that some sort of simple seal needs to be replaced. But what should be my next steps / what checks can I do to see if any real damage is done to the Diff? I have never even looked closely at a Diff before so I'm starting from scratch here. Many thanks all for any help you can give. My car's a MkIII Gt6 by the way. Cheers Sam
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chic doig has em!! Just ordered, should be in the post tonight. Thanks Chris for that recommendation - really appreciate it. And thanks to Chic Doig!! Cheers San
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Chris is Chic Doig a user on here? Or a supplier? Would you have contact details?
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Thanks Richard hmmm.... bit stumped by this now! I don't have a lathe I'm afraid and my engineering skills almost certainly wouldn't be up to that level of accuracy. Is it really just the bearings that could have been damaged by this then? Or should I be more worried? Could it have resulted in something really serious? Many thanks Sam
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aarghh! Can no longer get the spacers from either Canley or Rimmer Bros. Any ideas for how I might be able to get hold of these?
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Hughbert - that's incredibly helpful. Far easier to understand than the workshop manual! I think I may well have either solved my braking problem, or at least discovered an issue that I now know how to fix. So this has been brilliant. The problem is that there are no spacers or shims fitted on at least one side of my car! And that's the side with the really bad braking inconsistency. Also, on that side, the hub nut when tightend up to the full torque setting (100 ft lbs) only just makes its way fully onto the shaft. In fact there's about 1mm of nut protruding off the end of the shaft. Which can't be right, and can't be safe. So I'm going to fit a spacer and shim(s) on that side, using the technique described, just as soon as I've created my own 'churchill tool', and see where that gets me. I'll then do the other side too, just to be sure. Could anyone explain to me what the shims and spacer do? i.e. what harm could have been caused by my car running without them on at least one side? I've been driving around like this for about six years?! Many thanks Sam
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So sorry - there was a previous thread with info. in, and I thought it had got so long it was better to start a new one. Stupid of me - I should have said the details in this thread. Yep - MkIII Gt6 rotoflex.
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...just worked grease question out for myself. Just bought some LM2 grease for the bearing. Cheers
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thanks mate - although due to my incompetence that's raised some more questions for me - sorry. I can't actually see where a needle roller or accompanying seal features - neither came out when the hub flew out and I can't see any on this diagram: http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/gt6mkiandiirearsuspensionrotoflex.html&xsl=diagram.xsl&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/earlygt6.html&category=axlessuspensiondriveshaftsandwheels Sorry - I'm probably being dim! And when you say 'attach flange onto shaft' do you just mean 'put the hub on' or is there something else I'm missing. Sorry again - and thanks. Finally: Should I order special grease for all this? I have general multi purpose but in past I've received special grease with bearing kits, and I don't know if any will arrive with my order today - so I probably ought to order just in case. Cheers
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I thought it best to just start a new thread - other's got a bit too long! Can I just check that re-fitting a rear outer hub assembly (and new outer bearing) is really as simple as I'm assuming i.e. clean things up as much as possibl then just pop the outer bearing in with a bit of multi-purpose grease, then the plastic ring thing (which I guess is a seal), then push the outer hub assembly on as far as possible then just tighten up the nut? Given how difficult it is to get the hubs off, I'm worrying that the process I've just described my not be as simple as it sounds?! If anyone has the torque setting handy for the hub nut that would also be mighty useful. I do have an old Haynes which I will also consult but there's no substitute for Club Triumph experience! Cheers Sam
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Got the hub off fine on one side - using a sort of 'heavy duty' two armed claw - and am confident the other side will come off too. So it's all good and I no longer need to borrow a hub puller. My position's a bit different to most because I'm going to replace the outer hub assemblies anyway: so less concerned about damaging them. I think the warning about whacking the bolt was really just about the risk of damaging either the bolt in the hub puller or the threads at the end of the drive shaft. Probably valid concerns. Horses for courses and all that but the technique which the garage recommended, which was 'whack the hub' did work a treat. I was at a loss for what to do once I'd put as much pressure as I could on the hub puller, but a good solid whack at about 45 degrees on the hub and off she flew! If I'm honest I have memories from years ago of whacking the crap out of a bolt on what I think was a puller tool for something to do with the clutch on a mini - and that did it in the end! Cheers
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Chris that's really kind of you thank you. I've just collected a selection of different hub pullers from the garage. I'm going to try that and see how I get on. I may well take you up on your offer though if / when it all goes wrong! And by the way: the garage also said it's a mistake to hit the bolt on these things - as you warned in a different thread - it's all about shocking the hub apparently, as you said. Cheers
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Sorry to ask all, but here goes: I'm likely to need to take my rear hubs off this weekend. A friend is offering to lend the 'claw type' and local garage may have some other sorts of 'universal types' I can borrow. However, I gather from other threads that it would probably be sensible to use the 'proper tool' if possible. They're so expensive, so I wonder if there's anyone in the Bath / Bristol area (I'm Bath) that might be able to lend me that tool (i.e. hub puller specifically for GT6 - and presumably some other triumphs)? Very happy to buy them some beers or something in return. As I say: I may not need it, but I'm just trying to tee things up as best I can since I'm up against some time deadlines here (got a show coming up that I really want my car MOT'd for). Thanks anyone that can help! Cheers Sam
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Thanks all this is most helpful. So I think my plan will work but I assume that it is all dependant on the 'additional' bits all being genuinely original, rather than having been replaced at some point in the vehicles history? I think the only bits that can be are the steering components and the axels - which I'll be keeping hold of. Everything else either definately has, or probably has, been changed in the vehicle's life. Or is it the case that a 'like for like replacement' was ok at a previous point, and it's just 'in one go' that matters? That would be a bit weird but of course over 40 years most bits will wear out and be replaced!! Also, what do people do about the VIN number and other numbers that are on the body tub? If you swap over the body tub presumably then you must swap over those numbers - since the numbers have to tally with your registration document. Similarly, can you just take them off altogether and print new ones that are correct for the log book you're running it on? Something feels wrong about even touching that bit of the car! Bit confusing this!
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Hi all Im sure someone will know this off the top of their head: What are the rules when it comes to changing the body, chassis or engine of a car i.e. at what point have you really created a new car and so have to deal with DVLA issues? I am thinking of buying another GT6 that is the same model and year as mine. I plan to then take all the 'good bits' of one and make a really good car, then sell the other car made up of all the 'less good bits'. This must be quite common. It would be nice to hang onto my current registration document because it happens to be registered on my birthday, which is nice. But I want to use the body off the other car and maybe even the chassis, engine and gearbox if they all turn out to be better than what I've got now. In other words, and in an extreme case, I'd in effect be swapping the registration documents for the cars (which can't be right)! Basically I've got myself confused about all this! Cheers Sam