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Jezmond

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Everything posted by Jezmond

  1. Yes, those are the techniques I use. But I'd prefer not to!
  2. Hi Bill My memory is definitely not that good! It's quite possibly QH but I honestly don't know. I doubt it's the engine or box mounts but I'll change the box mounts just in case. I've lived with the judder for 20 years, I guess I can wait a few more months till I take the box out. Jez
  3. Although she's a '60 coupe, the original 948 engine bit the dust a long time ago. When I rebuilt her I had John Kipping build me a 12/50 engine and 4 synchro box. I finished it off with a diaphragm clutch. So it sounds as though it's more likely a gearbox leak then? How easy is that to fix?
  4. I've always had clutch judder when the engine is up to temperature which I now believe is probably due to a small leak from the rear crank shaft oil seal. It makes driving uncomfortable on long journeys. At some time in the next year or so I intend to take the box out at which time I'll replace the seal but in the meantime I'm thinking of using an oil stop leak product - either the Wynns version from Halfords or the Lucas one from eBay. Does anyone have any experience of these? Do they work, or can they cause any damage? All advice appreciated. Jez
  5. Absolutely, a brand new UJ will click without the appropriate size circlips. The difference in thickness is tiny but makes all the difference. For the cost of a few pennies for thicker circlips it's got to be worth a try.  
  6. I'm feeling optimistic that I've finally eliminated the nasty knocking noises from my Herald Coupe's rear end. In the end the solution was easy, quick and very cheap and didn't involve removing the drive shaft. Armed with a good pair of circlip pliers and a handful of oversize UJ circlips - both .0615 and .0645 (for a couple of quid from Bill at Rarebits) I put her on axle stands and shimmied underneath to take a look at the offending UJ. Having read Bill's hints and tips, I knew which UJ was causing the knocking. One opposing pair of circlips was slightly lose, I could see that they had moved against the cup - not much but and indication they weren't tight enough, and I'd read in Bill's hints that they need to be tight. I removed the circlip and was able to get a .0615 in straight away. I tried the .0645s to no avail but wondered that if I gently tapped the cup in a bit, they might fit. Sure enough they did. I was left wondering if I'd done the right thing, but I knew that I'd only tapped the cups gently so couldn't really have damaged anything. And besides, it was done now. A quick test revealed the dammed tick tick tick on overrun on left hand corners had gone. I refused to believe it as I've suffered with this for more years than I care to remember, having replaced the whole drivetrain from the gearbox backward (including recon replacement driveshafts from a very reputable Triumph trader) I've had a couple of runs since and the noise really has gone, our run to the Goodwood Revival at the weekend will provide final confirmation but I'm optimistic. My experience concurs that driveshaft UJs need to be tight. The solution is cheap, easy and quick - thanks to Bill at Rarebits. Jez
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