Jezmond
-
Posts
36 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by Jezmond
-
The definitive guide on UJs thanks to Bill Davies: http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk/Hints%20and%20Tips/UJ%20Replacement.htm The cheapest and quickest thing to try is fitting thicker circlips - reading the final few paragraphs is a must. Jez
-
Today I replaced all the rubber hoses (one of which was over 20 years old) with 5.6mm R9 hose from AFS (on eBay) Nice new stainless clips too and a nice glass and chrome filter at the tank end. All successful, no leaks or overflowing float chambers. Also started to use Frost's Ethnomix. Time will tell.
-
Although AFS advertise theirs as 6mm, it's actually 5.6mm too! It's much cheaper so I think that as a test I'll give it a try. If its degrading in a few weeks, I'll report back. Jez
-
I want to replace all the rubber fuel hoses on my Herald with R9 spec but with quality stuff, not the cheap (possibly fake) stuff on eBay. There is a VW place that is selling R9 on eBay which looks better to me and comes with 10 proper hose clips. It's ID is 5.6mm to suit 6mm pipe. I've measured an original Herald metal fuel pipe to be 6.35mm OD. Is 5.6mm too small? Should I look harder for 6mm hose? This is the item on eBay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380570131647 What do you recon?
-
Does anyone have photos to show the different front valences through Herald production? I'm interested in the differences from 948 through 1200 production but 13/60s would be interesting too. I know the difference between 1200 and 13/60 versions is primarily around the grille/radiator area but anywhere else? I think I have a late 1200 valence but I recently got an early valence which is either 948 (with optional rubber bumper rails) or early 1200. Some photos would be good.
-
I removed a couple of leaves from mine. It was a brand new saloon spring in my coupe and it was sitting too high. This was before the lowering blocks were available and John Kipping suggested removing a leaf or 2. It's fine in my coupe, she sits well and handles well. Might be different in a saloon or convertible if you have passengers in the back though.
-
I read somewhere that type 14 pads can be modified to fit type 12 calipers. Has anyone done that and can they describe what's involved as I quite fancy using Mintex 1144s.
-
You could always have it ceramic coated by Zircotec. It'll be permanent and will help with temperature management.
-
I've not used an alignment tool either and have never had a problem. I always thought they were a waste of money. Align by eye and jiggle till it goes in (no sniggering kids)
-
Its 1-7/16" That's one and seven sixteenths of an inch. I bought a socket and T bar on eBay.
-
When I replaced the timing chain tensioner (mistakenly in the belief it was rattling) a couple of years ago I took the opportunity to paint a few thin white lines onto the pulley - having done a bit of O' level geometry. This allowed me to better set the timing with a strobe. Jez
-
The carrier slides between 2 guides. The guides are held in with tiny pins. To remove the carrier you only need to remove one of the pins and slide the carrier out. I struggled a bit with this too but you'll need to find something to use as a drift and tap the pin through with a hammer. It took me a few attempts but I found a pop rivet of the right size that I cut down which was strong enough. It's a bit fiddly. Once you have one out, the carrier can be removed and the other guide can slide out leaving the second pin in place. You can leave it there. Hope that makes sense. Jez
-
Judging by the description, it's definitely for a diaphragm clutch. If you're switching from a coil to diaphragm clutch you won't need to get the bearing off the carrier because you can't use either from the old coil clutch. Or are you asking how to remove the carrier from the arm?
-
The eBay listing you posted looks good to me unless others know otherwise. As well as the flywheel, clutch, and bearing carrier you also need a slave cylinder.
-
I don't know about durability but availability of components is better for diaphagm clutches. I'd imagine that NOS coil spring clutch stocks will run out and there won't be sufficient demand to remanufacture. In terms of use, diaphragms are more progressive I believe, a bit lighter and more comfortable to use. But it's a long time since I drove a coil clutch car so I stand to be corrected.
-
To switch to a diaphragm clutch you'll also need the later slave cylinder and release bearing carrier (not the arm, just the carrier) in addition to the flywheel. It's an easy and sensible upgrade.
-
I use 145s. I think they look right, handle nicely and ride well. Cheap too.
-
Perfect, thanks Bill.
-
Any of the 948 experts on here know how the fuel pump tops (the little round lid thing) were originally finished? I'd imagine the choices are chromed (which I'd have thought was OTT), painted (I also doubt) or anodised (most likely) Thanks
-
Ah yes, quite right Mark :-)
-
No, that's not correct. I've just gone through the process of returning to the original alloy bellhousing but with a diaphragm clutch. I had mistakenly used a horrible heavy cast iron bellhousing 20 years ago and wanted to go back to alloy. What you need is: 1. Flywheel from a diaphragm clutch car. So late 1200 or 13/60 2. The bearing carrier for a diaphragm clutch. Not the clutch release arm, just the carrier. They are very different in depth. 3. Full diaphragm clutch including release bearing. (Canley Classics are recommended) 4. Slave cylinder for a diaphragm clutch. Bear in mind that you will almost certainly have to file out the slave cylinder so that it fits further into the bellhousing. 5mm is about right. I have photos I can post if necessary.
-
If its a box with a scroll type seal, wouldn't the excess drain into the bellhousing? (silly design if you ask me) This this happened to me when I tended to overfill everything.
-
Yeah, the box will come out. I want to fit the original alloy bell housing anyway. I just want to have an idea what the problem is. When it does come out I'll take plenty of pics before I touch anything.
-
Had a really nice run to East Sussex today. No problems to report other than some fuel vaporisation after a short stop. That soon cleared. When I went to lock the garage this evening I thought I'd have a look underneath to see if there is any oil dripping from the bellhousing. There is, and it drips onto the exhaust which accounts for some smoke when she warming up. So it seems likely that this causes the clutch judder. So, my question is, how do I tell it it's engine oil or gearbox oil?