Chunky020
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Everything posted by Chunky020
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thanks Stu, but all clean and no paint on them !, I might try a new B post striker plate as the drivers side is hooked out on the back edge where the pin drops (pin could be getting hung up there ?,
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thanks Stu, but all clean and no paint on them !, I might try a new B post striker plate as the drivers side is hooked out on the back edge where the pin drops (pin could be getting hung up there ?,
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Thanks Nick will give that a try Robbie
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Thanks Nick will give that a try Robbie
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I am having trouble with both door catches!, driver side is intermittent to release and the passenger side wont open at all unless you thump the inside until the latch lets go!or you drive the car and it opens part way!, I have had a play with the drivers side this afternoon and adjusted the bolt from the push button so it now in contact with the lever( made no difference to how the latch operates)so still not working correctly,the pin seems to flip over ok!.when the door is open should the latching pin be at the top or bottom when closing the door?. looking at new B post striker plates I have noticed that new ones have a straight internal vertical edge, mine are hooked out at the top of the catch(is this what is holding up the pin? any tips appreciated
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I am having trouble with both door catches!, driver side is intermittent to release and the passenger side wont open at all unless you thump the inside until the latch lets go!or you drive the car and it opens part way!, I have had a play with the drivers side this afternoon and adjusted the bolt from the push button so it now in contact with the lever( made no difference to how the latch operates)so still not working correctly,the pin seems to flip over ok!.when the door is open should the latching pin be at the top or bottom when closing the door?. looking at new B post striker plates I have noticed that new ones have a straight internal vertical edge, mine are hooked out at the top of the catch(is this what is holding up the pin? any tips appreciated
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Filled the car up with standard BP unleaded with Castrol valve master added when I picked the car up today! its a very low mileage original with 34,000 on the clock!, previous owner said he was running std 95 with castrol valve master this is how he was running the car and it never over ran and prior to him changing the coil (lucas gold sports coil) cap points etc that it ran fine, so he thought the over run was down to timing being out a bit?, probably got room for 4-5 litres of super unleaded to boost octane in the tank, would an octane booster additive help?
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I have a 2 litre six that over runs once at temperature and you turn the ignition off, is it down to timing ? any other pointers? thanks
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Thanks , I will check the tub for lean out on the b posts first, if the door is warped then will try the to straighten first although I am apprehensive about pushing the door back against the b post as the its only metal reinforced as the tub is fibreglass,thanks for the link Bill it might be the way to go Robbie
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Hi Gents, Is it possible to straighten a warped door?, the door in question has previously had a patch welded in along the lower skin by the previous owner this has kicked the bottom of the door out a 1/2", reskining not an option as the car is a BOND GT and although uses Herald/Vitesse door frames has unique door skins that are no longer available
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Thanks for that bxbodger, yep a little adjustment to said bolt has the door opening again with no issues thanks again Robbie
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Thanks for that bxbodger, yep a little adjustment to said bolt has the door opening again with no issues thanks again Robbie
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I wonder if you can help, I am experiencing problems with the release of the door catch, most times you need to push the button really hard or push the handle in as well to get the mechanism to click and release, I have tried backing the door of the sealing rubbers slightly so the door sticks out and less pressure on the lock this has made it a little better, can I assume that the spring is at fault ?and are they available separately? not yet had the door card off or inspected but have lubed from the outside thanks Robbie
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I wonder if you can help, I am experiencing problems with the release of the door catch, most times you need to push the button really hard or push the handle in as well to get the mechanism to click and release, I have tried backing the door of the sealing rubbers slightly so the door sticks out and less pressure on the lock this has made it a little better, can I assume that the spring is at fault ?and are they available separately? not yet had the door card off or inspected but have lubed from the outside thanks Robbie
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Thanks Pinman, I will look at the earth connections from the condenser etc
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Thanks Pinman, I will look at the earth connections from the condenser etc
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Sorry I mean lest lamp on points stays lit when open or closed on the points with the coil wired either way, that's with the lamp to earth and to the points/condenser insulated bolt
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just got back to the 1600 6 and have left the coil wires off, I dont remember if the positive terminal go's to the distributor or if its the negative?, the car is still positive earth, also I seem to have power across the points with them open or closed?
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Never use bleach it rots the rubber and can turn it brown, if they aren't to bad and you just need to clean them use CIFF and a green scourer and washing washing up liquid to clean off. if the surface is badly crazed use a very heavy wet and dry wet and take it down before cleaning, if past that get whitewall paint and and build up in thin layers until the cracks are filled (you will have to paint on the car or the rubber will crack again!. You could splash the cash and buy new you will need nice hot water and some silicone oil to get them on, the silicone will make things move and preserve the rubber! I agree with Mark if they are on the car originally they should be on the car, originality and all that but that's just my opinion plus its all to easy to scrape the paint off with out them! not to say the cars dont look good without the bumpers fitted as per the very early models
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Never use bleach it rots the rubber and can turn it brown, if they aren't to bad and you just need to clean them use CIFF and a green scourer and washing washing up liquid to clean off. if the surface is badly crazed use a very heavy wet and dry wet and take it down before cleaning, if past that get whitewall paint and and build up in thin layers until the cracks are filled (you will have to paint on the car or the rubber will crack again!. You could splash the cash and buy new you will need nice hot water and some silicone oil to get them on, the silicone will make things move and preserve the rubber! I agree with Mark if they are on the car originally they should be on the car, originality and all that but that's just my opinion plus its all to easy to scrape the paint off with out them! not to say the cars dont look good without the bumpers fitted as per the very early models
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You lucky so and so Roll your sleves up TOMTRIBE just needs TLC!, plus a fair few man hours!, YOU DONT NEED TO SELL IT!, with that interior its an excellent prospect, wish I had that space and was up to it physically, try and keep it original take your time and ask if you need guidance mate, your are missing your chance to be a stand out type of individual
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Johan Thanks for that will keep them peeled for a suitable lump,
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Hi did the Bond Equipe models have a different engine prefix I know the 2 litre vitesse carries the HC prefix and the gt6 had a K I think ?, I ask as my 68 GT 2 litre has a 1500 tc engine in at present although the steering is lighter and the car has plenty of go especially with the overdrive fitted I might just want to get the old boy back on the right motor one of these days and don't want to fit the wrong 2 litre block
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Stu, try the Carburetter Exchange 01525 371369 the guy there has loads of Solex parts and he really know's his stuff
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two ways to make a fuel tank safe to weld You would need to ether steam clean the inside of the tank to remove any petrol residue /vapour or wash out with washing powder and hot water this works very well I know as I have have worked on several tanks with good results, the tank is obviously out of the car and the washing powder is dissolved into very hot water before adding to the tank, give the tank several washes with the soapy mixture sloshed/shaken vigorously around the tank (wear gloves it will be hot to handle) then given a good flush with clean water use distilled water if you like to stop any rusting and then allow to dry properly before any welding is undertaken! Do not attempt any welding work on the fuel tank if you are not a competent welder! the welding work has to be a fuel tight obviously or it will leak!