Ray Perkins

Starter motor fails to disengage... Right. I have replaced the solenoid and this makes no difference. I am coming to the opinion that this is a problem with the positioning of the Bendix relative to the flywheel. I see from the Rimmer Bros catalogue that there should be a shim fitted between the spacer and the starter motor. This has been absent, but to my mind, fitting a shim will reduce the clearance between the Bendix and the ring gear, when I need greater clearance Are there any measurements I can make to check the positioning of the starter motor?

Starter motor fails to disengage... Right. I have replaced the solenoid and this makes no difference. I am coming to the opinion that this is a problem with the positioning of the Bendix relative to the flywheel. I see from the Rimmer Bros catalogue that there should be a shim fitted between the spacer and the starter motor. This has been absent, but to my mind, fitting a shim will reduce the clearance between the Bendix and the ring gear, when I need greater clearance Are there any measurements I can make to check the positioning of the starter motor?

Hi Dave, Thanks. I hadn't thought of that. I'll give it a try.

The starter motor developed a tendency to stay engaged after the engine fired. I removed the starter and the teeth on the pinion were horribly worn, so I bought a new starter assembly from James Paddock. When I fitted the new motor the same problem seemed to occur - although the sound was different; with the old motor the noise was a graunchy rattle, with the new one more of a high-speed whine. With both motors the Bendix moves freely. I disconnected the coil so that I could turn the engine over without it starting. When I turned the key the starter engaged cleanly and tuned the engine over as it should, with no unwanted noises, so the problem occurs at the point when the engine starts. I am at a loss as to what to do next! Any advice gratefully received.

My mark IV spitfire has had a full service very recently ( new plug, points, condenser, new  carb jets etc) and it has been running a treat. This afternoon, I decided to replace my dead fuel tank sender. When I removed the old one it was horribly rusty. I fitted the new one, which got the fuel gauge working and took the car for a spin. All was well. A bit later, I took the car for another trip, at which point it embarrassed itself by starting to run rough, finally stalling and refusing to start. I managed to restart it, but it kept running rough and got me home before stopping again and refusing to start at all. I suspect a fuel problem.D I am getting fuel to the carbs, but I wonder if particles of rust from the old sender have got into the carbs and caused blockages? If so where do I need to look for trouble?

I have just obtained a 1974 Spitfire IV. Sound chassis, mechanicals and new floor but most of the bodywork on the bottom-half of the car will need replacing. Please could I have some advice? 1. I have been given an estimate of £2,000 to weld in new panels (I am to provide the panels). Does this sound reasonable? 2. Lots of places to buy body panels, does anyone have any recommendations? 3. Can anyone recommend a place to get welding done in Cambridge/East Anglia area? 4. Boot lid. Rusty in the usual place. Repair or replace? Thanks in advance.  :)