iani

PI Saloon: Went for a drive today, car has developed an overdrive fault, started slipping & dropping out, now won't engage at all, I can hear the solenoid activating when the switch is made, will check oil level but as that wasn't done long ago, I'm suspecting big bill coming Mk1 2000 Estate: Coolant flushed & heater now working. I removed the broken horn ring to fit a replacement, pulled out the horn pencil to find it was broken, not really surprising as it appears to be original, it was an orange one. I now have a working horn. Washer bottle bracket replaced with a newer/cleaner one, washer wiring swapped round post neg earth conversion. I then changed the wiring over to the lighter socket too, I can now charge things. I also fitted the passenger side Alfa seat, these are a huge improvement over standard.

Update: I brought the car home on Thursday, the temp gauge sat at the half way point all the way home but still no heating. Today I drained the coolant, blew through the coolant pipes and was going to remove the block drain plug but was surprised to find that it was still the original tap, I opened it and it flowed well. I put some Barrs flush in, filled with water and then took the car for a drive, after running the engine for around 90 mins I drained the system again, very rusty water came through, flushed through until it ran clear from all orifices. I am pleased to say that I now have a heater, it's rubbish but it is working, thanks for all the comments.

GT6 Mk1: We went to Northampton Motorsport on Tuesday to have the DCOE's setup, I had sorted an exhaust leak out last weekend but there was still a bit of a blow at the manifold, it's never easy getting a good seal with aftermarket manifolds, the face heights are very different. Anyway, the session resulted in 192BHP, I was happy with that as my target was 180 (same as my EFI'd TR6). I will revert to using studs & nuts for the bottom row of manifold fixings, I have access trouble on a couple of the allen headed screws I am currently using, hopefully that will sort my leak out. PI Saloon: sulking under its cover, will get it out this weekend. TR6: Good run out last Sunday, it hasn't sold yet, no rush as I still love having this car. Mk1 2000 Estate: This car is so far exceeding my expectations, I picked it up from EJ Ward's this week, they fitted the brakes & suspension that they'd removed from my PI Saloon in December, all low mileage but standard spec' parts. The also swapped the drivers seat for an Alfa one I gave them, I will swap the passenger one myself, a tremendous improvement. Ward's also got the Overdrive to work, there was no supply to the relay. I had already gone to their yard and done the negative earth & alternator conversion myself. I'm thoroughly enjoying driving this 65mph "bruiser", I'm still mulling over an engine swap though, I have a fast road 2.5 head arriving next week (a warranty claim post an earlier failure on the GT6) and I have a set of PI kit.

I have some Restore Plus here, I have used it to good effect before, hopefully get this in over the coming weekend.

The spare rad I have here is a flat top, unfortunately no radiator places nearby, have to take it to Northampton.

Haven't got to try the tap yet Tim, I haven't had the car home, I had it delivered to EJ Ward as I was having work done on my Mk2 PI and the bits coming off that have gone onto the Mk1. I am sure there is a blockage somewhere, assuming I can get the car home this week, I will investigate next weekend, backlashing, prodding the drain plug etc, the rad has a drain plug on this car, I'll pop that off too, I have a new one if that is blocked.

Interesting, I need to flush it through for a start, I do have a spare rad here that I can have reconditioned. When we removed the 'stat housing after running the engine for a long time, the coolant was very pressurised & the 'stat was fully open, the rad was mostly cold, it might well be suspect

The issues have been present with two ‘stats, one with a poppet valve, one with just a hole and again without a ‘stat.

I was wondering same as it is very corroded on outside, I have SS replacement on its way

I'm hoping to drive it home next week, it was due to come home today but a bad air leak was identified on a test drive so the manifold gasket needs changing. The tech also suspects at least one valve might be suspect, I was planning an engine swap, it might be happening sooner than I'd intended.

The radiator isn't heating up, only the top 1/4, however, remove the bottom hose and water gushes out quickly so a blockage seems unlikely

TR6: In garage, for sale, see my ad on this site 😃 GT6 Mk1: Going for DCOE setup session on rolling road on the 10th, will check car over this weekend. Have found a NOS brake master cylinder, currently have TRW fitted and, after a few issues with that make, I'd like to replace it. 2.5 Mk2 PI: Brakes have been changed to Stag spec' all round, along with Stag M/cyl & servo, suspension has been stiffened up a little, had been using standard spec' parts, now on stiffer springs, KYB dampers & roller top mounts. The wallowing I had been experiencing has been drastically reduced but the ride is still very comfortable, a good balance. 2000 Mk1 Estate: The brakes & suspension on this car were past their sell-by date, the parts removed from my PI above have been fitted to the Estate. The saloon springs might well prove too soft for the rear, however, they were almost an inch higher uncompressed and I can't see me moving too many heavy loads in this car. I replaced the dynamo with an alternator, bypassed the regulator, converted the elec ignition from a pos earth unit to negative earth, fitted a new washer bottle strap, new radiator cap, few hoses.

Engine is 2000 Mk1, standard spec', CD150's, nothing fancy. Car has seen very limited use in recent years from what I can tell, I'm recommissioning it really. I had the engine idling for a good hour during the cold snap before Xmas, the temp gauge hardly moved and there was no sign of coolant circulating, the radiator wasn't getting particularly hot and the heater wasn't working at all. Today I fitted a new water pump, the one in the car seemed ok on removal, I fitted a new 82C thermostat and some new hoses, rad top & bottom & elbow to inlet manifold. Again, no sign of water circulating, however, there was an odd surging noise & feeling through the top & bottom hoses, on removing the 'stat the noise & surge stopped. The engine was idling for a good hour+ with the 'stat in place, the temp gauge didn't rise above 1/3. I'm stumped, on removing the rad bottom hose, coolant gushed out, suggesting the rad is clear. Any thoughts as to what could have been causing the surging with the 'stat fitted? when I removed it immediately on turning the engine off it was fully open, it then closed fine on cooling down, I don't believe it is faulty.

Just seen this, PM me your email address and I'll send some tomorrow

These aren't great but if you're stuck - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115660065338?hash=item1aede08a3a:g:gD8AAOSwtZFireRq&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoCahXj4fUqfAtNMIZPWGGcQ1sRYM420uHaXGM3FdugWxYNzZb4BHt4hsM%2FK8fMZ7jChqAhltg%2BVzuGpIt77raj97YcptcQ2wIcD2QnPJ4Mo19JMLiY4ZnBmQqBjMfwB0SojcvGDHgNrw1L4GSdaJ0I2cref36GbxC17LHFeCuT2AUuh1lgl5f2l1nM5CJ%2BUOh3IFcIlKKNOcKeAiHXoq%2ByA%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7iZjJOvYQ

GT6: Still running in (ish) haven't ventured beyond 4k yet and only there briefly, 600 miles on this lump now, might retorque head before rolling road session on 10/01, want to check tappets again anyway. TR6: Took it to Brackley on 27th, voltage was reading low, it has an A127 alternator and, when checking output voltages I accidentally shorted an unused terminal to its casing, voltage normalised and continues to read as it should, I will carry a spare for now. 2.5 PI Saloon: The new windscreen seal has had a thorough test in the last week with all the rain, I'm pleased to report a dry footwell, thanks James Godfrey-Dunne for swapping the seal. I have fitted LED headlights today, a big improvement over the halogens, that said, the latter will be reused in the Estate. 2000 Estate: Nothing done on the car per se, the new parts collection is growing here however, I'm itching to get going and have it back on the road, hopefully a couple more weeks should see it coming home.

The parts are from Canley Classics, trunnionless uprights and adjustable upper wishbones.

They were all facelift models Tim, post Oct ‘66, mine is the earlier type with white dials & no bumper rubbers

A good question Tim, still formulating ideas but... I have a 2.5 head being reconditioned right now (warranty work & it will be spare) I have a set of CP PI kit on the shelf There were no PFL Mk1 PI Estates made....hmm.. would make a nice car if I can get a short motor reasonably priced I have a set of black powder coated TR6 wheels coming in Feb

Wanted 2000 Mk1 drivers seat - ideally in Cactus but any colour considered

A bit chilly for spannering but needs must: GT6 Mk1: leaking block drain tap removed, Rimmers had decided to send me a radiator tap as a replacement, a quick call to a friend resulted in a Spit 1300 engine donating its block drain plug. Car sounds sweet, looking forward to RR session on 10/01 and having DCOE's set up correctly PI Saloon: Very large package arrived yesterday, rear sunblind all the way from Oz. It looks good but I'll fit once its a bit warmer out there. TR6: More neglect I'm afraid, seriously considering moving this one on Mk1 2000 Estate: I have bought another car, it was delivered by Radders yesterday, for now it is in a compound, it will be receiving the front struts & brakes off my PI, these are being swapped out next week. I have ordered what I need to do a Pos to Neg conversion, will change to alternator at the same time.

GT6: My goal was to get the car running well enough that I can drive it to Northampton Motorsports for a rolling road session to get the carbs set up properly. I have had many challenges getting to this point but today it was actually running quite well, the fuelling isn't correct under load but I think I have probably gone as far as I can for now. TR6: A large parcel arrived for my wife today, the Racestorations labels on it would suggest it is a replacement front spoiler, the current one hit some roadkill, bad move. I will fit it after painting, sometime after Xmas no doubt. PI: parts keep arriving, new gearbox surround trim came today, along with a S/H choke cable, the ends were frayed at the MU on the current one prohibiting full retraction reliably IMG_3479.MOV

A neat solution but I won't be using an ally rocker cover so not an option for me I'm afraid. I will have to stick with the setup I'm using now. I am going to a twin cable operation too, I had a cable snap last year and want to mitigate against a recurrence.

GT6 Mk1 - More progress on setting up DCOE's, it's not quite right and I will have to have another go on the valve clearance, idle never sounds great on video but at 3k it sounds really strong. I couldn't take it for a test run as the block drain tap is weeping, I have ordered a plug to sort it out. 2.5 PI - a friend had shown me the rear view mirror he'd bought from the Range in his TR7 V8, I decided to get one, only £20 with built in dash cam. Obviously not the best quality but a good field of view, my car is under a cover, hence odd pic. TR6 - No work but gave it a good thrashing this morning, great to have it out, not getting enough use these days. IMG_3467.MOV

My bonnet is raised at the front, it doesn't touch, I think it helps to use a standard tin cover too, not an ally one like you have. I looked at the site you listed, I wouldn't be leaving my car with a tuner for several days I'm afraid, so not an option for me. My car runs but it clearly isn't right, I have had several issues with this build, including melting a set of hepolite pistons due to lean running, the had was c. 12:1 CR and it wanted more fuel than I was jetted for. The carbs currently sport 34mm chokes, 150 mains & 180 air correctors, new head more like 11.5:1 so probably less thirsty, loathe to start swapping bits out in the hope it improves, I can drive it the 25 miles to RR as it is, just a pain having to wait until mid January to drive the car.